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Could be multiple things. First thing I would check would be the front wheel bearings and tie rod ends. Just hoist the car up and see if you have excess movement in the wheel/tire and then check tie rods.
Bleed each caliper. If any one caliper has severely reduced fluid flow or the fluid doesn't flow at all, remove the flex line and see if fluid comes out. That will determine if the caliper needs to be replaced or the flex line.
You didn't say how old the calipers and lines are, but it may be worth replacing them anyway.
From your post, you seem to be jerking a lot so you are handy. Lift front off the ground and spin the wheels. See if any of them hang up. Have someone gently push the pedal in and see which one grips more. Jerk off the wheel and check the caliper and see if the pins are crudded up. On principle, I would put a wire wheel on the caliper and put brake caliper grease on the.
Also, have you thought of the suggestion of just changing out the calipers AND brake likes? Goodridge makes good SS braided hose. I have them. Then bleed all calipers.
My guess is a stuck caliper or a leaking caliper and wet brake pads. A leaking caliper will grab like mad. Scarily so. You could also havea badly glazed rotor if it is a stuck caliper.
The caliper and flex hose others suggest are good candidates. The other is the ABS pump. There are solenoids for each of the front wheels that control fluid flow. They tend to seize up if the fluid isn't changed regularly. If the LF solenoid is seized it will pull hard to the right. Just something else to consider.
Severely jerking wheel, suggest a front brake; probably the side opposite the direction of jerk is.
A full and proper bleed would include checking for discoloration in color of the fluid darker indicatiing water adsorption, and possible corrosion in the calipers, causing the restrictive braking.
Sometimes, the 'pull' is resolved with a fluid change.
Last edited by whalepirot; Dec 26, 2014 at 03:02 PM.
I get the fluid out, take the reservoir out, clean it, wipe up any fluid I can see on the master cylinder and refill. After which. I bleed all brake lines till I get clear fluid and 10 more pumps to be sure.
My 2 cents is the right front is working normally hence it's pulling that way and working, the left is probably the problem not applying and brake on the left front and letting the right do all the work causing the dive to the right. Try to compress the LF caliper if it's stuck, open the bleeder and try again if it does move with the bleeder open then it's the hose if still dosent move it's the caliper. Hope this helps.
Last edited by touyech2883; Dec 24, 2014 at 04:50 PM.
FYI, regardless of what you find, one bad front means BOTH sides are replaced. I don't care if you never drive again but if you do stopping is NOT optional. Definately if I am on the same road as you
My 2 cents is the right front is working normally hence it's pulling that way and working, the left is probably the problem not applying and brake on the left front and letting the right do all the work causing the dive to the right. Try to compress the LF caliper if it's stuck, open the bleeder and try again if it does move with the bleeder open then it's the hose if still dosent move it's the caliper. Hope this helps.
If the rubber hoses to the calipers are original, they may need replacing. If restricted flow to a caliper exists, it is not really easy to just inspect, AFAIK. Replacement hoses, IF the caliper check mentioned or fluid flush does not remedy the 'pull', is not pricey.
FIX your brakes. Some teens put it off back in 1980. Hit the brakes hard, swerved over into my lane(2 lane). Head-on, 3 were killed, 2 hurt very badly and I STILL limp from the damage to my knee and hip. Don't live with this happening to you. fix it.
Brake hoses are actually two hoses, one inside the other. Sometimes the inner hose leaks and the pressure pinches off the inner hose so the caliper doesn't work. Check your hoses for swollen spots. This one is swollen at the bottom and near the shock mounting bolt: