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im guessing this is some kind of bushing or seal that is leaking from the rear diff.
I am about to drop my exhaust from the cat back, to replace the tailshaft bushing and the seal, which is leaking.....so, i would like to deal with this leak in this picture at the same time.
This is all new to me but I'm figuring it all out and enjoying it. This red 85 has gone from leaking everywhere to having only these two spots left that are leaking.
Any ideas what is causing this leak?
I will google and search the responses and teach myself how to fix it.
I do have the shop manual for the 87 (my other vette) but not the 85.
Pretty simple to replace. Proceedure would be the same as listed in your 1987 shop manual.
You might also want to look at replacing the inner stub axle seals.
Will
thnx Will! i will check out the shop manual and get it done. first i need to attatch a hose to my hot water tank and "power wash" the rear underside on this car.
I will repair this at the same time as i do the tailshaft bushing and sea.
I will search the shop manual for inner stub axle seals and see if its a simple job.
thnx Will! i will check out the shop manual and get it done. first i need to attatch a hose to my hot water tank and "power wash" the rear underside on this car.
I will repair this at the same time as i do the tailshaft bushing and sea.
I will search the shop manual for inner stub axle seals and see if its a simple job.
Thanks! VikingTrad3r
Unfortunatly the inner stub axle seals are not a simple job....
The rear diff has to come apart - Out of the car and the cover/batwing has to come off - The inner stub axles are held into the posi-traction unit with retaining clips.
Will
Bummer. They are not leaking so i will leave them.
Moving forward....here i dropped my tranny pan. Dirty job.
I have what looks to be a sludge donut blob thing and there looks to be a magnet holding what i can only guess are metal bits? there is nothing big, does it look like standard wear?
i decided to do a drain and refill on the tranny becayse i was under there anyway ablut to do my tail shaft bushing/seal and the diff pinion seal.
I bought fta dexron VI to fill.
while I have this pan off should I replace a filter?
This is my first look inside a tranny. We bought this red 85 auto with 40,000 miles on it. When i dropped the oul pan, there was not a drop of varnish or discoloration and it looked good.
there are so many myths about age of trans fluid... so many myths...
so little truth...
1. ATF ages, get over it.
2. ATF changes colours, get over it.
3. The two above do not equate trans rebuild is needed.
4. Metal shavings are a natural result of transmission function, get over it.
5. Shavings do not equate trans rebuild is needed.
The only thing that requires a rebuild is when in "D", the trans shifts from 2nd to neutral. Otherwise, don't worry about it, damn it.
awesome thankyou. i did read a couple tranny threads and there was a LOT of conflicting opinions.
QUOTE=bogus;1588598756]there are so many myths about age of trans fluid... so many myths...
so little truth...
1. ATF ages, get over it.
2. ATF changes colours, get over it.
3. The two above do not equate trans rebuild is needed.
4. Metal shavings are a natural result of transmission function, get over it.
5. Shavings do not equate trans rebuild is needed.
The only thing that requires a rebuild is when in "D", the trans shifts from 2nd to neutral. Otherwise, don't worry about it, damn it.[/QUOTE]
I agree with Bogus. With your low mileage and since you have it opened up I would go ahead and replace the filter and fluid and forget about it. I would think the fluid is dark because of age alone. Put it back together and drive the snot out of it.
Someone probably over-torqued them at one time. Sometimes you can just use a longer bolt with a nut on top of the flange.
My sources say 12n-m, 9 ft lbs. My FSM says 97 inch lbs...8 ft lbs....
i would say yes because i stopped the second that it "gave" and when i backed it out there was shreds of aluminum. i admit that i did not clean the threads out before putting the bolts back in. i may have seen pieces of aluminum come out with the brake cleaner if i had done so.
anyway, i am going to do this repair correctly, and use the HeliCoil. Good thing I have allllll winter!!!
Goals: replace rear pinion seal and tailshaft bushing and seal.
Currently tranny is supported with the car jack from my tacoma.
Issue: i think im fubar because i chose to put old tries/steel rims under the 4 tires as the support method. I need to rotate the drive shaft with tranny in neutral to get at the 8mm bolts on the opposite side of the spicer u joint.
I cannot jack up the back end in the current condition because the tranny will drop.
Am i putting the c beam back on here folks? re install c beam, raise back end using traditional stands on the frame so rear wheels can spin?
Anybody see another way out of it?
its jacked like this:
dont jack like this if you need to remove driveshaft. :-/
Buy yourself the correct sized "bowed" or "half-moon" sized box wrench. The drive-shaft is SAE and the axles are metric. Rather than direct you towards one just use a GOOGLE search for "bowed" or "half-moon" box wrench. An "S" shaped might do but I believe I'd try for the "bowed".
I would also likely choose TIME-SERT vs. Helicoil for the thread repair. You could likely find a local machine shop that has the correct tools/drills/arbors and inserts and purchase just what you need.
Buy yourself the correct sized "bowed" or "half-moon" sized box wrench. The drive-shaft is SAE and the axles are metric. Rather than direct you towards one just use a GOOGLE search for "bowed" or "half-moon" box wrench. An "S" shaped might do but I believe I'd try for the "bowed".
hey WV - off the top of your head, what are the SAE and metric sizes on the drive shaft and half shafts? I did not know they were different. on my 85, seems to me, when I did U-joints - drive and half shafts, I used a combination of various (8mm-???) tools.
hey WV - off the top of your head, what are the SAE and metric sizes on the drive shaft and half shafts? I did not know they were different. on my 85, seems to me, when I did U-joints - drive and half shafts, I used a combination of various (8mm-???) tools.
Pinion flange uses 5/16-24 bolts with a reduced head 7/16 hex It's been a long time and after checking.
BTW - I don't see where you ever returned to your exhaust/c-beam questions?.
Pinion flange uses 1/4-28 bolts with a reduced head of I believe 5/16. It's been a long time but that's best I recall.
BTW - I don't see where you ever returned to your exhaust/c-beam questions?
just dug out the parts manual, and it's a bit confusing. it doesn't callout the bolt/thread size EXCEPT 84-85 where it calls out a 5/16X24X1.34. 86-91 just callsout the part number, but the pinion bolts have a different p/n than the halfshaft. I could swear, that when I changed out the u-joints on my 85 I only used one size wrench -- an 8mm. BTW, the prop shaft bolts p/n's are 14047768, and 14018700 (84-85), half shafts, 14046904. if the bolt size is confusing, check out the p/n's for the pinion yoke -
as for the exhaust beam question, sorry for the no reply, but I think i'll fit the exhaust, locate the hanger, and mark the c-beam for the hole location - disassembly everything and drill for the strap. a little extra work, but I should hit it dead on.
just dug out the parts manual, and it's a bit confusing. it doesn't callout the bolt/thread size EXCEPT 84-85 where it calls out a 5/16X24X1.34. 86-91 just callsout the part number, but the pinion bolts have a different p/n than the halfshaft. I could swear, that when I changed out the u-joints on my 85 I only used one size wrench -- an 8mm. BTW, the prop shaft bolts p/n's are 14047768, and 14018700 (84-85), half shafts, 14046904. if the bolt size is confusing, check out the p/n's for the pinion yoke -
as for the exhaust beam question, sorry for the no reply, but I think i'll fit the exhaust, locate the hanger, and mark the c-beam for the hole location - disassembly everything and drill for the strap. a little extra work, but I should hit it dead on.
I'll buy the 5/16-24 after checking but for sure it's not a metric hex. I believe that the rest of the industry uses a 1/4-28 for anywhere a 1310 u-joint is retained by straps. I did "EDIT" the post.
rear diff
