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Dana 36 year interchange

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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 12:13 AM
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Default Dana 36 year interchange

Looking on ebay I found some dana 36 rears. Theres a local guy with a few but they are listed as 84-87. Some other ones with broken cases, etc are listed for 84-96.

Which is correct? Can I use an '84 assembled center section (chunk, housing, aka etc) in my '93?

Heres one that says 84-96
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-OEM-DANA-36-Posi-Rear-End-Differential-Assembly-3-07-1984-1996-/151530088047?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorvette&hash=item2347e5a66f&vxp=mtr
Heres one that says 84-87.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371040483013?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Whats the difference?
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 01:17 AM
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I just bought an 86 D36 w/3.07 gears from another member here to put in my 94. He told me before I bought it that there are 4 threaded holes in the 86, 2 on each side, that are 10 mm that will have to be redrilled and threaded to 12 mm for my 94. Beyond that everything else wil fit fine.
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
Looking on ebay I found some dana 36 rears. Theres a local guy with a few but they are listed as 84-87. Some other ones with broken cases, etc are listed for 84-96.

Which is correct? Can I use an '84 assembled center section (chunk, housing, aka etc) in my '93?


Whats the difference?
You want to avoid '84 for sure as there were issues with the actual differential. I'd try for an '88+ because it would have the 12mm holes already for the camber brackets BUT any year will work. You will just have to drill/ream the 10mm holes to 12mm to use your hardware and camber brackets.

AGAIN: Avoid the '84 FOR SURE!
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Polo Vert
I just bought an 86 D36 w/3.07 gears from another member here to put in my 94. He told me before I bought it that there are 4 threaded holes in the 86, 2 on each side, that are 10 mm that will have to be redrilled and threaded to 12 mm for my 94. Beyond that everything else wil fit fine.
The holes are NOT threaded but only a larger bore to accommodate the 12mm hardware. You will have to thread NOTHING!
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 08:38 AM
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So anything except the 84 will be fine? Just a minor modification to the hole size/thread etc.
Now I need to decide on ratio. Is 3.07 a good difference over the 2.59? Its a .48 difference which I know is significant but it still results in a 3.07.
I can swap gears in my existing housing and was thinking 3.54's.
It's just an around the town cruiser so low end performance and acceleration is more important than top speed.

And I also understand the governor will need to be adjusted, speedo gear, etc.
Suggestions are welcome.....
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh

And I also understand the governor will need to be adjusted, speedo gear, etc.
Suggestions are welcome.....
FYI, The governor works off the transmission output shaft RPM it will not have to be adjusted. The speedometer gears will have to be changed to match whatever rear gear you choose or you need to add in an electronic speed calibrator that will change it for you.
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bjankuski
FYI, The governor works off the transmission output shaft RPM it will not have to be adjusted.
I usually adjust the governor with a gear change. When numerically higher gears are swapped in the output shaft turns faster at the same mph as it did before which makes it shift at a lower rpm as it did before. Which I can't stand because it'll shift through the gears too early.

An easier example is putting big tires on a truck, it will shift later and sometimes not even go into 4th. (assuming it's a truck with a 700R4).

So you don't have to adjust the governor, but it's my preference to adjust it. It needs to be adjusted now in stock form in my opinion.
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 12:52 PM
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Default 3.55

Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
So anything except the 84 will be fine? Just a minor modification to the hole size/thread etc.
Now I need to decide on ratio. Is 3.07 a good difference over the 2.59? Its a .48 difference which I know is significant but it still results in a 3.07.
I can swap gears in my existing housing and was thinking 3.54's.
It's just an around the town cruiser so low end performance and acceleration is more important than top speed.

And I also understand the governor will need to be adjusted, speedo gear, etc.
Suggestions are welcome.....

I built a 3.54 about 4yrs ago. I didn't install it because I thought it would scream on the highway. My u-joints went so, this was the time to do it. I just put it in a month ago. I wish I did it sooner. It's like driving a whole new car. If I knew better, I would of gone with a 3.73.

Just my 2 cents
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 02:40 PM
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From: Glenbeulah Wi
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
I usually adjust the governor with a gear change. When numerically higher gears are swapped in the output shaft turns faster at the same mph as it did before which makes it shift at a lower rpm as it did before. Which I can't stand because it'll shift through the gears too early.

An easier example is putting big tires on a truck, it will shift later and sometimes not even go into 4th. (assuming it's a truck with a 700R4).

So you don't have to adjust the governor, but it's my preference to adjust it. It needs to be adjusted now in stock form in my opinion.
All I am saying is if your were happy with the shift rpm before it will be the same with the gear change. Mph will be different but rpm will be the same. If you were not happy before then change as needed.
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