C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

fuel issue tried everything

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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 10:47 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by bley49
Got the T40 head matched up perfectly the last bolt on the fuel rail wouldnt budge and got stripped and the far right one that keeps the intake tube things on the side on wont budge.

Got over 10k invested in this car open to any reasonable offers just get it out of here
Ya, I had a similar prob..

Can you post a few photos.

Just so you know,, this sort of "Stuff" just happens. Hang on !!

I ended up taking my intake off in pieces. I had a partially striped intake bolt.

But if your intake bolt will not budge, go down to a parts store and borrow (or Purchase) a hand held "Impact Driver" You will find various videos on how to use, Google search.

Once you have the Intake manifold removed, then you can tackle the fuel rail bolt.

Good Luck...
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 03:35 PM
  #102  
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Impact driver.

Not to be confused with the air or battery driven type.
I still have one from the 80's and use it on things like this.
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 04:09 PM
  #103  
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Hard to imagine stripping a T40 when the bit is properly inserted. Was there dirt in the bolt head or something? If you have compressed air and a butterfly impact, that would work.

The impact driver illustrated above is also an excellent tool. But make sure you're aligned on a clean bolt head or it will only get worse.
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 04:43 PM
  #104  
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No the t40s hadnt moved in 30 years and even with pb blaster they stripped to hell now I can't fix my car the bolt heads are completely done tried to drill and extract all they did was snap my drill bits


but seriously open to cash offers this car is too much of a pain in the ***

Last edited by bley49; Feb 20, 2015 at 04:51 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 05:12 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by bley49
but seriously open to cash offers this car is too much of a pain in the ***
Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
We will never know.
the suspense is killing me.....
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 05:58 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by bley49
No the t40s hadnt moved in 30 years and even with pb blaster they stripped to hell now I can't fix my car the bolt heads are completely done tried to drill and extract all they did was snap my drill bits


but seriously open to cash offers this car is too much of a pain in the ***
Bley,

If your going to drill the heads off start with a drill bit smaller than the torque bit hole. Then go up until the head comes off. Just do not drill into t he head until the manifold is removed.
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 07:19 PM
  #107  
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manifold has been off fuel rail bolt is on and those curved metal tubes still have a bolt in them so i couldnt remove the fuel rail
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 10:31 AM
  #108  
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If I lived closer I'd buy it off you and fix it.

Find an old guy used to working on rusted tractors. He'll get those bolts out for you.

Good thing you're not working on exhaust.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 10:49 AM
  #109  
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Try a cold cut and hammer, used it many times on rounded bolt heads.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 11:10 AM
  #110  
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If you're good with an air hammer, you could try that with a good, sharp chisel bit. Careful of the surrounding aluminum, of course.
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Old Feb 19, 2023 | 03:04 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by HlhnEast
I think you are on the right track here. One thing you mentioned is the car runs fine for about 10 minutes. If this coincides with a battery disconnect, the reset ECM goes back to square one and then starts getting input from all sensors to make adjustments to engine function. If the aftermarket chip is causing issues I would think it might take a bit for the car to start showing up. I dunno but its a thought.

You did miss the boat a little bit by not upgrading to a later ECM tho. Theres nothing wrong with the 85 computer but the 86 and later ones are smarter and are more tuneable. If mine kicks the bucket I am planning on doing this. At the rate my car is puking parts I figure it wont be long.

Since no one has suggested it I would check your fuel pump relay and the wiring there. The insulation shrinks away from the connectors and sometimes these wires get frayed and start losing their full current potential or strands cross over to other wires. Not necessarily saying this is the smoking gun but something to look at as a preventative item.

Good luck and keep posting when you have solved the issue. I am having fueling issues with mine so I will be very curious as to your results.
It's the ignition control module. The module is in the distributor and when the engine heats up, it heats up and starts misbehaving. Get a good one and don't forget to put the grease on it when you put the new one in. Also I notice you didn't replace your fuel regulator, that could be as easy of a fix as the valve that goes from the plenum to the regulator not working.
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Old Jun 20, 2023 | 11:04 AM
  #112  
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BLEY49 THANKS FOR BEING A TRUE FRONTIERSMAN, U HAVEN'T "THROWN-IN-THE-OLD-TILE'. GREAT AMERICAN SPIRIT. MAY THE EFI GODS BE WITH US C4 LOVERS. I'VE ATTENDED MANY OF GORDON KILEBREW SEMINARS ON C4 DRIVEABILITY PROBS. TO ME THE C4's ARE GREAT. AS I TYPE I'AM IN PRSUIT OF THE LAST PRODUCTION OF THE ZR1. CURRENTLY I HAVE A '85 C4 WITH A CUSTOM MILD BUILD 383 cu.in ENGINE W/BEEFED 700-R4 AUTO TRANNY W/STOCK 3;07 GEARS, I UPGRADEDED THE INJ. TO THE "24lb TYPE, HAVE MADE 15-20 1/4 MILE DRAGSTRIP PASSES @ TEXMTRPLEX IN ENNIS,TX @ NITE IN THIS TEX HEAT & MY ELASPED TIMES ARE IN THE 12.60's. SO FAR NO ENGINE DETONATION & BASE TIMING IS SET TO 6 DEG. BTDC,SO FAR SO GOOD. ALSO I PULL SPRK PLUGS OFTEN TO CK FUEL MIXTURE. FUEL: E93 USED @ STRIP & ON THE STREET USE 92 PUMP GAS. BEST, GE. "SAVE THE WAVE".

LUV THE MERC MARIANE ENGINES
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