C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

LED headlights + Foglight solution

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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 06:53 PM
  #61  
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Thanks for this write up. Im having the exact same problem, and will fix it this week.
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #62  
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https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ion/2179/5079/

Has anyone tried these yet?
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by billy mild
It may, but I cannot guarantee that it will. See post #50 for my explanation why it might not. My solution is much cheaper and is guaranteed to work for 1990-up, although I cannot deny the allure of a plug and play solution.
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 09:21 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by billy mild
Methinks this is messed up thAt you have to 'throw away' the power savings (alternator load) in order to get led headlights to work....

Makes me wanna stick with my halogens (daniel stern setup in e spec housings)
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
Methinks this is messed up thAt you have to 'throw away' the power savings (alternator load) in order to get led headlights to work....

Makes me wanna stick with my halogens (daniel stern setup in e spec housings)
I went with D.S. too and mine need this. what bulb did you go with? and did you use the relays?
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 09:36 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
Methinks this is messed up thAt you have to 'throw away' the power savings (alternator load) in order to get led headlights to work....

Makes me wanna stick with my halogens (daniel stern setup in e spec housings)
This is not the case at all if you use Circuit Doctor's fix. I don't know what the current draw is on that tiny bulb but it can't be very much at all.
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 02:50 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by gdl2165
This is not the case at all if you use Circuit Doctor's fix. I don't know what the current draw is on that tiny bulb but it can't be very much at all.
Thats not how i read it.

50 watt load simulating resistors for both headlight bulbs.

So i imagine it wastes 100 watts, by turning the energy into heat, to make the stock electrical system think there are bulbs there.

Need a better solution before im on board.

I thought one of the whole 'points' of LEDs was the reduced power draw (and alternator load).

Last edited by dizwiz24; Dec 2, 2015 at 02:52 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 08:41 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
Thats not how i read it.

50 watt load simulating resistors for both headlight bulbs.

So i imagine it wastes 100 watts, by turning the energy into heat, to make the stock electrical system think there are bulbs there.

Need a better solution before im on board.

I thought one of the whole 'points' of LEDs was the reduced power draw (and alternator load).
I think you may have misunderstood what my suggested mod does. What my mod does is draw a few millamperes extra current and a milliwatt or two extra beyond the LED consumption by using a 168 bulb to ground the foglight relay's coil and allow the headlights to work the way GM originally had designed.

I also do, however share your concern about throwing away heat and watts with resistors which may or may not work. See post #42 where I elaborated on this in great detail.
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 09:40 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Circuit Doctor
I think you may have misunderstood what my suggested mod does. What my mod does is draw a few millamperes extra current and a milliwatt or two extra beyond the LED consumption by using a 168 bulb to ground the foglight relay's coil and allow the headlights to work the way GM originally had designed.

I also do, however share your concern about throwing away heat and watts with resistors which may or may not work. See post #42 where I elaborated on this in great detail.

Ahhh. I stand corrected, i thought the 50 watt resistors from 'superbright led's ' was what you were proposing....

Ive had to do this a lot lately here it seems, but i shall bow out (but still follow) of this discussion 'tail between the legs'...
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 09:44 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
Ahhh. I stand corrected, i thought the 50 watt resistors from 'superbright led's ' was what you were proposing....

Ive had to do this a lot lately here it seems, but i shall bow out (but still follow) of this discussion 'tail between the legs'...
There was another solution to ground the foglights directly. Not sure how that turned out.
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by billy mild
There was another solution to ground the foglights directly. Not sure how that turned out.
That would be me, thought I'd posted my results. It didn't work. The only thing I found that did work was Circuit Doctor's fix, relatively easy and works like a charm.
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 07:52 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
Ahhh. I stand corrected, i thought the 50 watt resistors from 'superbright led's ' was what you were proposing....

Ive had to do this a lot lately here it seems, but i shall bow out (but still follow) of this discussion 'tail between the legs'...
No need to walk away feeling defeated, people misunderstand and misread things, it happens! I hope the information is useful for you.
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 04:06 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by QZRBLU
I modified my fog lamp relay circuit about 5 years ago to make my fogs operate normally when I converted from Halogens to HID's. You need to remove the knee bolster from the passenger side of the dash and locate the fog lamp relay (it should be the far right relay in the relay bracket). . Cut the lt grn wire from pin #5 (relay pin 86) about 2" from the relay base and add a 6" jumper of at least 18 Gauge wire with a ring terminal. Find a convenient screw and ground this new jumper wire to the frame of the dash. I used a small piece of heat-shrink tubing to insulate the end of the .5mm lt grn wire that comes from the dimmer switch.
Now, turn on your parking lights and test your fog lamps, they should light and your high beam indicator should be off (unless you have your high beams on).
Page 8A-100-1 shows the circuit in my 1990 FSM.
To undo this mod, just remove the jumper wire and re-connect the original lt grn wire to the relay pin #5.






Mick
Mick or anyone that have done this mod to your C4.

I noticed the cruise control stopped working after I did this mod. Did you have any problems with the cruise control after the ground was changed?
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 08:57 PM
  #74  
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I've had no problems with the cruise on my 96 after doing this mod.
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 10:17 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by gdl2165
I've had no problems with the cruise on my 96 after doing this mod.
OK, this means the cruise took a dump on me. I already checked all fuses, and connections.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 06:49 PM
  #76  
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Circuit Doctor- May be a dumb question, but do you only need to do this modification to one head lamp? Or does it need to be done to both?
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:14 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by TorchTarga94
Circuit Doctor- May be a dumb question, but do you only need to do this modification to one head lamp? Or does it need to be done to both?
I can answer that, only one headlight need be modified.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 08:39 PM
  #78  
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Excellent thank you sir!
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Old Aug 31, 2016 | 12:29 PM
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I have noticed it mentioned that the pre-90' cars are wired differently.

Anyone know if LED headlights will work in those cars without needing to re-wire or if not what has to be done to get everything working in a pre 90' car?
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Old Aug 31, 2016 | 01:12 PM
  #80  
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Why wouldn't somone installing these aftermarket lites just ground the fog lamp relay coil to wherever is easy ?? Is it really that important the fog lamps go out if the high beams are turned on ??? Seems like you coukd just turn the fog lights off via the switch.
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