Crazy idle almost tuned
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
Blu always need to be is signal to computer
Well test result is from 2.68 k ohm to 7.61 k ohm
Could works properly? Or its a bad TPS sympthom
http://www.ehow.com/how_5832553_chec...on-sensor.html
Some instructions here
They say any sudden drops or increase in the reading indicates a bad tps
Its hard to say
Last edited by Christi@n; 01-29-2015 at 04:20 PM.
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
i've re-tested TPS with omh scale, slowly rotating the shaft, and i've got a good response in omh scale, the slowest movement the slowest increase in reading, no sudden drop or rise, so TPS shuold properly works,
Also Tested the IAC wiring is very simply, 4 connectors two external 0.35V two internal 11.55V, So think IAC is working properly too
probabily the issue is about IAC count, how said from Bjankusky, but i've no scanner and no tuning program
DAMN IT
Also Tested the IAC wiring is very simply, 4 connectors two external 0.35V two internal 11.55V, So think IAC is working properly too
probabily the issue is about IAC count, how said from Bjankusky, but i've no scanner and no tuning program
DAMN IT
Last edited by Christi@n; 01-30-2015 at 07:09 PM.
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
could be here the problem
Last contact between screw and TB shaft occur at 0,61 v at TPS, unscrew again and TB shaft doesn't follow screw. It stay there.
Supposed to be ok?? Seems not be stucked
I have not datamaster or any other scantool unfortunately yet
Supposed to be ok?? Seems not be stucked
I have not datamaster or any other scantool unfortunately yet
Last edited by Christi@n; 02-07-2016 at 03:40 PM.
#27
Team Owner
Without a scantool, there is no way to see what is going on. So if you have a high idle, it could be that there is a leaking gasket or hose which allows unmetered air into the engine. For instance, if the TB is in the position you mentioned and the IAC counts are 0, it means the engine is getting too much air. Usually that signifies a leak from a hose or gasket.
On my L98, I get everything hot and running and the temps stabilized. Shut everything but the motor off and see what the IAC counts are. If it is more than 20, it means the engine is not having enough air and the IAC is being commanded to open up more. In which case, you have to turn the screw in to get the throttle plates or butterfly to open up more. Rev it and recheck. If it is less than 20 and the TB is in the current state you mentioned, it means too much air is coming in and the IAC is unable to shut down the air leak enough. At which point, you go hunting for the leak.
PS. I forget which year is the bastard year where it is between OBD1 and OBD2 and some have had difficulties reading the ECM except with a Tech 1 or a Snap On scanner. Someone else will chime in. Regardless, you need a scanner to do anything. This is not the carb style where you can simply throw parts and get it working. You need to understand more about the car and have a scanner.
Last edited by aklim; 02-07-2016 at 04:29 PM.
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Christi@n (02-08-2016)
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
PS. I forget which year is the bastard year where it is between OBD1 and OBD2 and some have had difficulties reading the ECM except with a Tech 1 or a Snap On scanner. Someone else will chime in. Regardless, you need a scanner to do anything. This is not the carb style where you can simply throw parts and get it working. You need to understand more about the car and have a scanner.
So i would assume taht the only thing i can get is tuner cat datamaster
My idle is not so high, but it won't go under 900 rpm, in place of 750 rpm.
Last edited by Christi@n; 02-08-2016 at 05:56 AM.
#29
Team Owner
Without data, we can guess all day long but I don't know how you know you have 900 RPM. I really don't trust the tach you have in the car. I prefer to see what the ECM says because my tach was over 300 RPM faster than it should be. On my F-body the tach was spot on but on the Vettes, I haven't read much that says they are accurate. Mine is reasonably accurate now that I have sent it in for calibration. I verify RPM with my timing light that has a tach and the scanner readout. I only use the stock tach for when I am driving.
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
That or Tech 1? I would think that a Snap On scanner might work. Ask around. I have an older "The Brick" that I bought off ebay. I have a 91 so IDK.
Without data, we can guess all day long but I don't know how you know you have 900 RPM. I really don't trust the tach you have in the car. I prefer to see what the ECM says.
Without data, we can guess all day long but I don't know how you know you have 900 RPM. I really don't trust the tach you have in the car. I prefer to see what the ECM says.
#32
Team Owner
#33
Drifting
Thread Starter
I've already seen a lot of scanner around, and I've definetly decided for tunercar data master, that is a more complete platform.
Just I had to wait a little, due I havent't 200$ to spent at the moment
Just I had to wait a little, due I havent't 200$ to spent at the moment
#34
Team Owner
Not sure how to do this with MAF but with SD I take off the hose going to the TB if the counts are 0 and plug off the IAC physically and see if it changes. If the engine still runs, there is definitely an air leak.
#35
Team Owner
I bought the cord and downloaded the free system since I am not going to tune my own car ever.
#36
Le Mans Master
I'm close to properly tune my lt1 1995 idle.
At this moment idle at 900 rmp, if car is stopped in neutral (man trans),
Obtained by idle regulation screw on TB
The Only one issue remain is on running
As instance: go 3rd engine 900 rpm, step on clutch and go neutral for a while idle doesn't come back to 900 rpm, but stay up, about 1100-1200 rpm,
Until car is stopped Again, then slowly come back to 900 rpm
Any idea? Seems like to be something related to the speed.
ASR cable, speed sensor on transmission?
Already check for vacuum leaks seems not to be, even since that if idle works properly with car stopped should works properly on run too.
At this moment idle at 900 rmp, if car is stopped in neutral (man trans),
Obtained by idle regulation screw on TB
The Only one issue remain is on running
As instance: go 3rd engine 900 rpm, step on clutch and go neutral for a while idle doesn't come back to 900 rpm, but stay up, about 1100-1200 rpm,
Until car is stopped Again, then slowly come back to 900 rpm
Any idea? Seems like to be something related to the speed.
ASR cable, speed sensor on transmission?
Already check for vacuum leaks seems not to be, even since that if idle works properly with car stopped should works properly on run too.
I would first clean the throttle body real well before I replace the IAC. As well as the IAC passages. You could try the clean the IAC for test purposes and if there is a marked difference I would then replace it.
** Just saw the IAC is replaced, missed it sorry, whatever.
Last edited by pcolt94; 02-08-2016 at 11:01 AM.
#37
Team Owner
I agree on the TB. I think he can remove the TB, remove the IAC and remove the IAC housing and clean everything and should be done every few years. That mandates new gaskets.