C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Oil Leaks

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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 01:07 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by NearyJr

Now when I drive the car I notice a burned oil smell when I return and park it in my garage. I was hoping it was the valve cover gaskets but upon closer inspection I discovered that the head gasket on the driver's side is leaking oil. There is another oil leak on the front of the block near the water pump which appears to be blowing back and dripping off of the oil drain plug
Fred
Fred,
Even though head gasket oil leaks are rare, my 1990 coupe had a leaking driver side head gasket within the first 2,000 miles of it's delivery. I grudgingly let the dealer look at it (they also had to replace one of my wheels since it left Bowling Green with 3 right side wheels).
They sprayed the china wall area and the head-to-block areas with white powder to pinpoint the leak. It was definitely the head gasket and it would drip down the left side of the block to the oil filter area after about a week of daily driving. The work order states that they re-torqued both heads and I've not had another problem in 34,000 miles.
I also had a defective IAC motor that I replaced myself. The dealer refused to install one of their 'sniffers' to diagnose the problem, instead they wanted to keep the car for a couple of weeks to see if they could make it happen. It would only stall after a 15-30 minute cruise on the freeway. I'd hit the off ramp and would have to keep playing with he throttle to keep it running. It only failed intermittently.

Mick
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 03:25 PM
  #22  
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Thanks guys for the suggestions on the china wall. Injectors came in so now time to print all pages needed from the FSM.
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 04:29 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
Once you've cleaned gasket material off a properly prepped surface you'll realize dimpling this surface is not necessary.
BINGO!!!
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by QZRBLU
Fred,
Even though head gasket oil leaks are rare, my 1990 coupe had a leaking driver side head gasket within the first 2,000 miles of it's delivery. I grudgingly let the dealer look at it (they also had to replace one of my wheels since it left Bowling Green with 3 right side wheels).
They sprayed the china wall area and the head-to-block areas with white powder to pinpoint the leak. It was definitely the head gasket and it would drip down the left side of the block to the oil filter area after about a week of daily driving. The work order states that they re-torqued both heads and I've not had another problem in 34,000 miles.
I also had a defective IAC motor that I replaced myself. The dealer refused to install one of their 'sniffers' to diagnose the problem, instead they wanted to keep the car for a couple of weeks to see if they could make it happen. It would only stall after a 15-30 minute cruise on the freeway. I'd hit the off ramp and would have to keep playing with he throttle to keep it running. It only failed intermittently.

Mick

Mick,

Thanks for your input. I am not a mechanic as you can probably tell but my neighbor is and has owned some Corvettes and Mustangs and now runs his own repair shop. I was hoping to get the car to his garage this weekend and put it up on the lift but it's snowing again here in NJ and I won't drive it in this weather. When the weather clears and I have time we'll get it up in the air and find out exactly where the leaks are and address the problems.

Fred
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 09:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Joe C
unless the intake hardware has been change, in stock form, the intake hardware is button-head TORX.
You are correct, my fault on the bolt design, a T-40 I think. It still rounded out.
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 09:36 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by HAD2HAV2
You are correct, my fault on the bolt design, a T-40 I think. It still rounded out.

And you will need one at least 3" long to get to some of them. Not a regular bit/socket on an extension, but a full 3"s of bit before any enlargement.

Rick
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 08:57 PM
  #27  
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Go to the GM dealer parts counter and get the one, single sealant that is used for both diesel and gasoline engines. It is the best and takes the guess work out of which RTV to use. I did dimple my china walls. After application, I allowed the sealant to cure for 48 hours before starting engine and slinging oil on wet sealant. I have no leaks today. GL.
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 12:25 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by shootnstarz
And you will need one at least 3" long to get to some of them. Not a regular bit/socket on an extension, but a full 3"s of bit before any enlargement.

Rick
\
The OP needs to know how bad the disassembly can get.



Install a fuel pressure gauge. Cheap.
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 07:43 AM
  #29  
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disassembly is some work, but not all that bad. it is however, very time consuming. if you think about it, it's just "nuts and bolts." I must have done this a half dozen times, and I never rush the job. if it takes three, four or five days, it takes three, four, or five days - . here's a couple tools I have that makes the job a bit easier. the short 1/4" drive swivel torx socket is home made. the 6" (3/8" drive) works like a champ.



I did run across this torx bit in the McMaster-Carr catalog. it allows for a slight offset - up to 25 degrees. i'll probably get one - it might just be a plus for the next time.



here's a shot of my fuel rail pressure gauge on my 90. I had to route the gauge fittings a bit differently and add an AN-4 elbow to clear the MAP sensor. i notched the distributor cover and tilted the gauge for better viewing.




Last edited by Joe C; Feb 18, 2015 at 07:49 AM.
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