Header install
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,159
Likes: 31
From: Orange Park Florida
Header install
I am installing a set of hooker ceramic coated long tube headers in my 1987 C4. I had to do a new rear seal in the back of the tranny so after completing that, I decided to test fit the passenger side while I had the driveshaft and c beam out of the way.. needless to say I knew the passenger side would be tough.. and my first attempt was a no go due to lack of clearance.
I removed the passenger side motor mount bolt thinking I could lift the motor on one side to gain some room. no such luck I was unable to move it.. I have enough room to put them in from the bottom but was un able to slide them in from the top or the bottom. does anyone who may of done this job have any advive.. thanks, gary
I removed the passenger side motor mount bolt thinking I could lift the motor on one side to gain some room. no such luck I was unable to move it.. I have enough room to put them in from the bottom but was un able to slide them in from the top or the bottom. does anyone who may of done this job have any advive.. thanks, gary
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
When I installed my Hedman headers in my '87, I removed the OEM starter and the dipstick tube on the passenger side. I was able to move the wires around to get enough clearance to bring the header up from the bottom. I didn't have to move the gas lines. I had already removed the A/C compressor and installed a kit for the pulley. The lower brace for the compressor went back in with no mods needed. There was no need to unbolt the motor mount to raise the engine. The dipstick tube will require a custom bracket to attach it to the cylinder head like OEM.
Plug wire #6 should be changed from a stock 135 degree boot to a 90 degree boot.
What I did find that the large OEM starter is a royal PITA to re-install. The header has to be loose (not bolted on) and moved around to get the starter back in place. So I wound up buying a mini-starter (Hitachi style) from Summit Racing. This design allowed me to install it with the header bolted up. No wiring changes were necessary. From what I read, the later L98 starters will also work with no problems.
I did add some insulating wrap around the gas lines and around the wire harness that goes across the back of the engine block to the body. I also added some protective boots to the ends of the spark plug wires; again from Summit Racing.
Plug wire #6 should be changed from a stock 135 degree boot to a 90 degree boot.
What I did find that the large OEM starter is a royal PITA to re-install. The header has to be loose (not bolted on) and moved around to get the starter back in place. So I wound up buying a mini-starter (Hitachi style) from Summit Racing. This design allowed me to install it with the header bolted up. No wiring changes were necessary. From what I read, the later L98 starters will also work with no problems.
I did add some insulating wrap around the gas lines and around the wire harness that goes across the back of the engine block to the body. I also added some protective boots to the ends of the spark plug wires; again from Summit Racing.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,159
Likes: 31
From: Orange Park Florida
thanks for the info
Thanks for the reply.. my c4 is also a 1987 I have the same summit mini starter which i removed for more wiggle room.I did not remove the front frame brace which does seem in the way, I brought it in from the bottom and height did not seem a issue. It seemed more that the header diameter did not want to squeese between the block and frame to go up to the head. So that is why i thought to pull the motor mount bolt and slightly lift the motor. But that idea wasn't working. I am trying to get another idea now,, thanks again.. Gggg
When I installed my Hedman headers in my '87, I removed the OEM starter and the dipstick tube on the passenger side. I was able to move the wires around to get enough clearance to bring the header up from the bottom. I didn't have to move the gas lines. I had already removed the A/C compressor and installed a kit for the pulley. The lower brace for the compressor went back in with no mods needed. There was no need to unbolt the motor mount to raise the engine. The dipstick tube will require a custom bracket to attach it to the cylinder head like OEM.
Plug wire #6 should be changed from a stock 135 degree boot to a 90 degree boot.
What I did find that the large OEM starter is a royal PITA to re-install. The header has to be loose (not bolted on) and moved around to get the starter back in place. So I wound up buying a mini-starter (Hitachi style) from Summit Racing. This design allowed me to install it with the header bolted up. No wiring changes were necessary. From what I read, the later L98 starters will also work with no problems.
I did add some insulating wrap around the gas lines and around the wire harness that goes across the back of the engine block to the body. I also added some protective boots to the ends of the spark plug wires; again from Summit Racing.
Plug wire #6 should be changed from a stock 135 degree boot to a 90 degree boot.
What I did find that the large OEM starter is a royal PITA to re-install. The header has to be loose (not bolted on) and moved around to get the starter back in place. So I wound up buying a mini-starter (Hitachi style) from Summit Racing. This design allowed me to install it with the header bolted up. No wiring changes were necessary. From what I read, the later L98 starters will also work with no problems.
I did add some insulating wrap around the gas lines and around the wire harness that goes across the back of the engine block to the body. I also added some protective boots to the ends of the spark plug wires; again from Summit Racing.
