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Ive never had much luke getting good dc readings with a clamp meter under 10 amps draw. But things may of changed over the years.
I have had this one for a few years and really like it. Bought it solely for low amp clamp readings, which is great for searching for current draws.
Sure it's much cheaper in the US.
1) I thought those clamp on meters only work on AC
2) Went through this on my '90 & found a wet fan relay - It rusted internally and provided a path directly from the Battery side to the coil side. Looked fine on the outside but was slightly warm.... Are you sure you unplugged all of the relays under the hood during your test?
1) I thought those clamp on meters only work on AC
2) Went through this on my '90 & found a wet fan relay - It rusted internally and provided a path directly from the Battery side to the coil side. Looked fine on the outside but was slightly warm.... Are you sure you unplugged all of the relays under the hood during your test?
There are a bazillion of them so sure I could of missed something but I do know for sure I did the following :
Headlights
Fuel pump
Mass air flow (both relays)
aux fan
main fan
a/c connections at firewall and compressor
ignition related items
wiper motor
tps (figured what the heck while I was there)
I did more than that but that's what I remember clearly targeting.
Just got my wifes Mercedes 190d turbo pulled out to start restoring it. My works never done it seems.
Anyways after I put the battery charger on the Mercedes I will be doing the fuse panel both sides per fuse test so will have those results in a few minutes barring relatives, weather, pets or who knows what else getting dumped on my plate.
All fuses removed and testing both sides of the fuses.
There were 2 on the bottom that had no power either side. Will look into that later.
The curious one was the courtesy/clock fuse. 12 volts one side and .2 to .4 volts other side. Key on or off.
All other fuses 12volts on feed nothing on the other side key on.
Key off everything was as expected 12 volts where appropriate and nothing were it shouldn't be. Still the courtesy/clk fuse showing .2 to .4 volts on the side that should be dead. Rain odds to high to remove dash pad and go after the courtesy module today.
you can chase your tail with the cts/ck circuit....it has the memory for the stereo/seat/clock/timer, not sure how it all works, I'm somebody will straighten me out, but I know putting your meter in series with the + post and battery initiates the battery draw....it should time off...also, my 85 has a spare tire light on that circuit....good hunting...
The curious one was the courtesy/clock fuse. 12 volts one side and .2 to .4 volts other side. Key on or off.
That fuse supplies power to a zillion places. Basically everything that is powered when the ignition is off. That would be interior lights, under hood lights, radio memory, C68 HVAC system memory, cigarette lighter, center console compartment light and more...
1) I thought those clamp on meters only work on AC
2) Went through this on my '90 & found a wet fan relay - It rusted internally and provided a path directly from the Battery side to the coil side. Looked fine on the outside but was slightly warm.... Are you sure you unplugged all of the relays under the hood during your test?
slightly warm, this just gave me an idea, I know you are using a meter to look at the car to find the amp draw, have you considered looking at the car with infra red to see if something is warm? we use them in the firehouse to look for heat? perhaps someone has a camera to borrow?
slightly warm, this just gave me an idea, I know you are using a meter to look at the car to find the amp draw, have you considered looking at the car with infra red to see if something is warm? we use them in the firehouse to look for heat? perhaps someone has a camera to borrow?
Upside down and laying in the seat with my head in the floor I actually saw it.
Had to come up for air so to speak after finding it. Now to get back under there and unplug it and wire the white and black wires together thus bypassing it.
Going to do a amp draw test as soon as I get it unplugged and before messing with the wires.
Well that didn't fix the draining problem but I now have interior lights when I open the doors and the switches on the doors will pop the cover for the convertible top again now.
Well that didn't fix the draining problem but I now have interior lights when I open the doors and the switches on the doors will pop the cover for the convertible top again now.
Worth it.
But still tracking drain issue.
did u replace the ctsy module or fix the module? how did u get everything to work again?
Spent the last couple of days installing stereo and driving the car some.
Weather went from 77 to 40 and less since yesterday so Im hibernating till the weather warms back up which should be first of the week. I will be removing the wires from the distribution point behind the battery again but this time pulling all fuses and relays to try to find which one has the load.
Oh and I know it was mentioned earlier in this thread about the power antenna and I basically dismissed it as being taking out by the fuses etc but I noticed it sure sounds like there is a noise from that area when I turn the battery disconnect **** powering the car back up. There is something making a noise for about 1 second from that area. All I can figure is the fuel pump or power antenna from back that way. Will investigate that some too when the rain stops.