Here's a real dumb question.

Are you sure they even did any work?

 

Thanks for your comments. My car is a 6-speed with 3.42 gears. I purcashed all of the parts myself and I know all the work was done because I was going to assemble the engine myself until I ran into the rods hitting the cam and figured that this is out of my league. I then had them do it. The spark deal I am talking about is the one that mounts with the coil to the drivers side head.

Aqua, what do you do? Do you have a shop you can do these at? I am alittle desperate and because of all of the I am broke too. I need to find a good place to do the computer work.

 

Poorly yes, but it will run if it's not too far out. I'm living proof of that and I know I have nobody to blame but myself. Car starts fine, sounds fine, pulls fine, just doesn't pull as hard as it should. Honestly I didn't know it was as bad as it was until I got to the track :(

 

That is exactly what mine is doing. I runs good and starts fine, but no power and no torque. I just don't know a tactful way to ask them to check.

 

I do.
"This work f'in sucks, FIX IT! "

:jester

 

If you had a day and some fresh gaskets you could check it yourself fairly easily. I'm pretty sure you can get the cover off of the F-body without having to remove the radiator and such.

The hard part would be seeing it after you do get it off.

 

Hmmm....I have never actually seen a car where the timing chain was installed off by one tooth. I was going by what a pretty sharp (seemed anyway) mechanic mentioned eons ago when he did some work for me. Now that I think about it, I also remember that Ford guys got rid of the cam timing retard that Ford had built into their engines in the 70s by advancing the cam by one tooth. Combine this with your experience and I can see that what the other guy told me was not true in every case.

Godsil - I can help you with the tuning part. I think Nathan is right about the cam timing being off. Get the speed shop to check the cam timing. They should be able to do it without removing the timing cover by if they know where the center of lift is supposed to be on the hot cam. If they don't, they may have to pull the cover. They need to fix the problem since they made the mistake.

 

Imagine my suprise when I pulled the cover off and saw it like that. If there was a way to kick my own butt I would have done it.

 

Nate - I must admit - you have learned and learned well. You really know your stuff. damn.

As for this LT1... 36# injectors are fine if your running a 383 with a supercharger... maybe... but I would suggest, for the money the Ford motorsports 24# units. they are measured at a lower fuel pressure, and since GM runs more PSI, they work out at about, what, 28# or so??? correct me someone...

This sounds like a good shop, who does not know these engines. and should have done more research. shame on them.

 

The problem is your heads. Seems to me that they had screwed up your heads causing to flow much worse than stock #. How can I say that? because this has happened to me in the pass. 3 yrs a go, I had head/cam mods with header/B&B catback and all the goodies and dyno tuned. I only made 321rwhp. With the setup, everyone I talked to, they say I should see at least 350+rwhp. Conclusion is the heads. 1) valves size don't match 2.02/1.5. The heads work was ported by a local speed shop. I paid $1100 for it and its junk. How can I say that? because a few months ago. I decided to go 383ci forced induction and I went to Agostino Racing Engine in Canada. I told Nick to build me a all forged internals. I also asked Nick to flow test my heads before and after rework to their stage II level. Guess what? my previously ported heads is lost volocity on the intake and exhaust, Also, the porter sinked my valve for no reason per Nick. The head flow test result are 121 intake 160 exhaust. Nick reworked my heads to stage II and now its flow 260 intake and 200 on the exhaust. Nick says it would flow better if the heads have not been worked before. That is why I DO NOT do any business with local speed shop. Only well known tuners that know what they are doing.

Bruce
93LT1 Conv w/ZF6
Blown D1-SC/N2O
ARE built 383ci/Stage II heads
Pic can be see here http://hometown.aol.com/brucevette/m...age/index.html

 

Does anyone know of any Portland, Or area companies that can do my computer. I would really like to get it done ASAP.

 

Hmm, I've not read anything good about the Accel injectors and only read good things about the Ford injectors (learning by others mistakes is good). Every story I have ever read about Throttle Bodies suggests that your choice of a 58mm TB is overkill and eats lowend torque. Kind of like putting an 800 double pumper on a 350.
Recheck your spark plug gaps, verify fuel pressure at idle and WOT.
I'm not sure what you can do about the heads. They are an unknown......you may have just learned a valuable but exspensive lesson about engines....what looks good on paper isn't neccessarily good in real world situations.
The timing chain can be installed off and the computer can compensate for a tooth or two. The Opti isn't sensitive to cam orientation like we think other standard distributors are, but it is keyed and can be installed wrong. When installed correctly, it just slips right on. Incorrect installations take more effort.
Good luck and keep us posted on your findings.

 

They are extremely sensitive to cam orientation. Since the opti is driven directly off the cam and can only go on "correctly" one way then if the cam is out of time, so then will be the opti. Sure the computer can advance the timing as far as it can, but it still won't compensate for the cam being off. Now on a 96 with an actual crank position sensor it might could do more, but most likely it would set a serious SES code. Since it would have a reference to the crank and the cam it would know the two were out of sync. If it just has a reference to the cam like on the 92-95 models it just has to take it on faith that the two are timed correctly.