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I've tried (and tried) to reset my FX3 system over the last 2 days. I've tried the paper clip method, and went to borrow a friends ScanTool only to find it isn't operational.
What I wanted to know was this: Will the system still work even if it flagged a code? I had a broken shock controller and it's fixed now, but I still get a code 34 (RR shock out of place).
I'm going to CotA this weekend...and want to make sure the system will still work.
TIA
P.S. Yes...I searched and didn't find this particular answer in the archives.
No, FX3 won't work if any of the codes are set. I believe the system uses a default setting (Tour?) for the other shocks/actuators that are working properly.
Did you check the small gear at the top of the shock rod when you re-installed the actuator? You should be able to easily turn that gear (and the rod). Also make sure the teeth in the ring gear in the actuator are not broken and same with the gear on the shock.
No, FX3 won't work if any of the codes are set. I believe the system uses a default setting (Tour?) for the other shocks/actuators that are working properly.
Did you check the small gear at the top of the shock rod when you re-installed the actuator? You should be able to easily turn that gear (and the rod). Also make sure the teeth in the ring gear in the actuator are not broken and same with the gear on the shock.
Actuators and shock gears are all from CaptainCNC...everything turns easy and fit as it should.
The plastic cover popped off after I installed them the first time...the epoxy gave up and separated where he popped them open to swap out the gears.
I just re-epoxied the cover back on and checked operation by connecting it up and turning the key on. Actuator went through the normal cycle...
I'm glad I had the shocks re-valved...the "Tour" mode is what the "Performance" setting was originally at...and it goes up from there.
If I could just get the damn thing to reset...I've tried it at least a few dozen times...both with key on, key off, disconnected the battery and grounded the positive/negative cables together for 30 seconds...
If I could just get the damn thing to reset...I've tried it at least a few dozen times...both with key on, key off, disconnected the battery and grounded the positive/negative cables together for 30 seconds...
This is being a PITA...
The FSM states the a Code 34 (RR Out of Position) indicates that the shock rod gear is still turning and has not found the "stop" notch on the upper shock shaft.
There is a difference in the number of degrees the shock rod and gear should turn between the early FX3 shocks and the later ones. Something like 90 degrees for the early shocks and 60 degrees for the later shocks.
The procedure to clear FX3 codes without a Tech1 and the required brake cartridge is to turn the Ignition to ON and ground pin C and A in the ALDL for two seconds and repeat twice more for a total of 3 times. Have you done that?
The FSM states the a Code 34 (RR Out of Position) indicates that the shock rod gear is still turning and has not found the "stop" notch on the upper shock shaft.
There is a difference in the number of degrees the shock rod and gear should turn between the early FX3 shocks and the later ones. Something like 90 degrees for the early shocks and 60 degrees for the later shocks.
The procedure to clear FX3 codes without a Tech1 and the required brake cartridge is to turn the Ignition to ON and ground pin C and A in the ALDL for two seconds and repeat twice more for a total of 3 times. Have you done that?
Too many times to count...
Everything should be working fine...when I got the controllers back from CaptainCNC they all worked fine...until the RR popped in two at the epoxy joint.
The gears were all replaced on the shocks with new ones...in the exact same position as the ones I removed. They all worked...for about 1/2 day at CotA before the stress was too much (apparently) for the controller.
If I can't get it to reset with a Tech1...I'll ship that controller back to him and see if it is out of whack. Everything else is the same when it was working short of the controller being epoxied back together by me. It isn't like it's rocket science...the way he took it apart there was absolutely no doubt how the cover was supposed to go back on.