afgunn

Replaced spark plugs the other day what do you think? I used EFI Connection PN#120-00077. I do have some parts that I will be selling at a good price now that I am finished if someone is interested in this project. I will add these in the C4 For Sale Forum later. I felt that good reliable ignition is the first step to take in modding my engine for some more power.

I have definitely noticed a difference on the SoTP Dyno. The engine is definitely smoother, quieter, and more powerful - even my wife said so! Left 2 black burnouts 8-10 feet long from a standing stop with the accelerator gradually punched up to 2/3 - 3/4 depressed (never fully depressed) without a single ignition miss - all power! After I had put in new plugs (Bosch Platinum #6703), the engine would miss at high RPM (different plugs with wider gap). The plugs I took out (Bosch.R3 Platinum+4) were ALL sooty and completely black, but the engine never missed - even at high RPM!?

I will post some installation notes later. There are few things to know that will make the installation smoother, easier, faster and with less headaches! Mr. Bailey left a few good notes out concerning installation that I had to contact him about.

Parts for sale:
8 - D581 coils
Accel #8023 8.8mm plugs wires that I have cut to length and terminated.

LTCC: http://www.bailey-eng.com/LTCC.html

EFI Connection: https://www.eficonnection.com/eficon...SBCandLT1.aspx

afgunn

Left Bank:

afgunn

Right Bank:

afgunn

LTCC Controller in left front headlight well (temporary mount):

tombrammer

Nice!

THE 383 admiral

UN-fortunatley. You did not read your Manual.1st line
It states DO NOT USE traditional low Ohm Wires!!!
Especially the most consistent lowest Ohm Super conductors
in your post.

http://www.bailey-eng.com/LTCC.html

Tom400CFI

Well, that is some "proof". The old SOTP meter, and the "Peel-o-meter". Are you saying that after the LTCC conversion, your plugs are sooty and black? Why are your plug wires so long? One of the advantages to "coil near plug" systems is reducing the length of the wire, to reduce resistance in the wire....

THE 383 admiral

You are correct about the spark difference.
I have this LTCC setup on my current Stock LT1 i retuned my PCM to compliment this setup.

afgunn

No, I did read the manual and the website several times. I got the Accel wires for that reason and because I could find them at a retailer online. I did not widely research and do not know a lot about researching spark plug wires and where they are available. The red spark plug wires that are currently installed are the wires that were on the car when I bought it - MSD SuperConductor wires and they are working great. Mr. Bailey said he put that note on the installation notes and on the website because they had some problems with them in the early days, but he did not mention any problems lately. So far, I have experienced no problems and doubt I will later.

afgunn

Best "proof" I have as of date. I did not have the car dyno'ed before the mod. If people would like to make donations, I will take it in and get it dyno'ed now.

The old plugs were heavily sooted and black. After I put the new plugs in they were starting to build soot as well and I developed misses at high RPM. I just got the car running again last weekend (due to undocumented intems in the installation manual) and have not pulled any plugs yet to check for soot. As I said my wife, who is not savvy about autos at all, said it is quieter and smoother. Still a more or less objective comparison, but I noticed the same as well.

My plug wires are long because, I just got it running last weekend (those undocumented items) and I swapped in the old wires to eliminate any possible problems with the new wires, although they are specifically recommended against in the manual and website. Since the car runs great with these old wires (and on Mr. Bailey's advice), I will keep them and shorten them when I get a chance. The other reason for this mod is that each coil gets 8x more time to saturate than with 1 coil. Also, I am now only using the optical readers from the OptiSpark and nothing else.

I see this mod as being much less expensive and problematic than the 24x system conversion. I am sure that the 24x system would be better, but at what expense and trouble? And rewiring the LS1/6 PCM to work. I have read that you are not able to get everything to work with the LS1/6 PCM - the dash display for one.

afgunn

Yeah, I have not gotten to that point yet. With Spring here, it will probably be this Fall before I can get to that. My 94 LT1 is stock as well except for, I think, oversized exhaust and free flow mufflers.

c487

Glad to hear you are happy with the results. I just ordered my LTCC from Bailey Eng and a opti from Dynaspark today. Cant wait to get it installed. I was thinking about going the 24x route but figured a good opti the LTCC should do the trick. I also have an electric water pump so I don't have to worry about it leaking on the opti.

bogus

considering I RE-wrote the LTCC manual...

I have LTCC, and that warning needs to be updated, in my opinion. It seems more focused on the early LS1 coils. The LS2 coils are far better. That's what I am using.

afgunn

Well, I finally finished with the plug wires. Many thanks to Steve at Magnecor! So, are they short enough now!?

Additions to LTCC's instruction manual for my installation:
1) 4(red) & 13(red) - red/black wire on 2-pin grey connector
2) 7 EST (white) - pin B (white wire) on 4-pin black connector
3) 23 Tach output (white/black) - white wire on 2-pin grey connector

1993C4LT1

Very nice! I went Magnecor as well on my LTCC. Fast to ship at Magnecor. Sorry if I missed it, but how did you get the EFI bracket to work with the composite valve covers?

drcook

I was going to ask that same question about using with composite covers.

Was there any interference with the alternator bracket ?

thanks !

afgunn

I had decided not to share that information because I did not document everything and I cannot remember exactly, but I will share what I remember.

I kept the stand-offs beneath the valve covers because I did not like the idea of using their long bolts with nothing stopping how much torque you apply. I forget the exact screw size that fits the stand-offs, but I think it was a metric #6, long enough to extend through the mounting brackets and into the stand-offs. I got some large washers to duplicate the original washer, placed those on top of the valve cover to spread the stress and stop the valve cover at the top of the stand-off, coil bracket, and then the #6 metric screw and torque to spec. The large flat washer stops against the stand-offs that are through the holes in the valve cover just like the original screw and large washer.

Hope that answers your questions. I do have additional coils and wires for sale list in the appropriate forum.

afgunn

Yes, I did have interference with the rear alternator bracket, which I just removed. Now that I have an angle grinder, I plan on modifying the bracket and re-installing it. As I see it, the alternator is supported quite well without the rear bracket, but more is better right?!

Hope that answers your questions. I do have additional coils and wires for sale list in the appropriate forum.

TorchTarga94

Looks great. I am trying something different with regards to coil mounts and may go with the D510C LS9 coils.

Tom400CFI

Here is another idea for aesthetically mounting the Coil-Near-Plug coils...