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I have an 85 with a 4+3. When reversed out of my garage, the reverse would not dis-engage. If I put the car in first gear it would battle the reverse and it was like a tug of war. If I pit it in neutral and released the clutch the car would buck and stall. Eventually as I popped it in and out of reverse it released. Am I headed for a catastrophic failure.
PS. I actually love the 4+3 and up to this point it has been great.
I have an 85 with a 4+3. When reversed out of my garage, the reverse would not dis-engage. If I put the car in first gear it would battle the reverse and it was like a tug of war. If I pit it in neutral and released the clutch the car would buck and stall. Eventually as I popped it in and out of reverse it released. Am I headed for a catastrophic failure.
PS. I actually love the 4+3 and up to this point it has been great.
Been sitting for awhile? Clutch might have rusted stuck
I had the clutch master cylinder go out and it was a bear to get in or out of gear. Check you master cylinder fluid level. It could also be the slave cylinder.
I had the clutch master cylinder go out and it was a bear to get in or out of gear. Check you master cylinder fluid level. It could also be the slave cylinder.
This and the confirmation of shifter rod adjustment should be done at the same time. Car's on stands so it would be the prime time to confirm hydraulic leaks as well as confirm the shifter rod adjustment.
Use "clutch hydraulic fluid" GM # 12345347 or equivalent for the clutch system hydraulics.
This and the confirmation of shifter rod adjustment should be done at the same time. Car's on stands so it would be the prime time to confirm hydraulic leaks as well as confirm the shifter rod adjustment.
Use "clutch hydraulic fluid" GM # 12345347 or equivalent for the clutch system hydraulics.
Should a dealer cary this fluid? Would I benefit from just changing the fluid?
Should a dealer cary this fluid? Would I benefit from just changing the fluid?
A dealer should have and to avoid the risk of breaking something you could remove fluid from the master with a baster and refill with as much as possible of fresh, repeat a few times on a frequent basis until you've got a reasonably fresh fill.
What I mean by breaking something is perhaps the bleeder screw was frozen in the slave, I wouldn't force the issue to the point where you could twist off the bleeder.