Auto trans slip yokes
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 113
From: Michigan
Auto trans slip yokes
I have an 86 and just bought another auto trans one from an unknown year. The 86 has a 5/8 inside recess before the splines start. What's the deal with the recess? Will the nonrecess yoke work, because it doesn't slide into the trans as far?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,751
Likes: 276
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
A few things to check before doing a trans swap with an unknown transmission, The electrical plug should be a 4 pin with one blank.
A corvette Turbo700R4 trans will have a V on the bell housing.
The year of the transmission is on the passenger side, the number at the beginning is what year it's made.
Transmissions will have different lengths, check the rear part is the same.
A 4l60E 92-96 has a round 5 pin electrical connector and is computer controlled, a black box to make it work in an early C4 will cost almost as much as the transmission is worth.
The yoke does go in a long way on the Turbo700R4, the and yes the spline does not start right away.
You want to be sure you have a good length of contact or you risk stripping the spline in the yoke.
See the images below.
Date of manufacture, 5= 1985
Electrical connector early square 3 pin.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 113
From: Michigan
um I'm not changing my trans
Also I found the right term for the yoke difference one is counterbored and the other is not, both are C4 yokes off C4 driveshafts for an auto dana 36. The counterbored yoke slides in al the way to the damper and the other stops about the same dept as the counterbore.
Also I found the right term for the yoke difference one is counterbored and the other is not, both are C4 yokes off C4 driveshafts for an auto dana 36. The counterbored yoke slides in al the way to the damper and the other stops about the same dept as the counterbore.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
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The recess/counter-bore in the slip-yoke is to accommodate an output shaft sleeve/o-ring (8654063 GM) if the transmission had it. The counter-bore is generally only found in truck builds where the slip-yoke was actually vented. When Spicer did the drive-shafts I guess they used likely the earlier truck slip-yoke that used the sleeve/o-ring and modified it for the dampener.
Your CUJ (Center of U-Joint) to end length needs to be equal to the CUJ to end of the old less the recess BUT needs to be long enough to extend fully through the bushing in the extension housing. CUJ to end of the original is something just short of 5" I believe.
The sleeve if you're interested
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 113
From: Michigan
Both are same length less than 5" CUJ to end. The one with counterbore will slide all the way on and the one w/o will not, it stops about 5/8" The driveshaft barely came out I find it hard to believe it will fit back in w/o the recess or a shorter yoke.
I am going to use a non stock yoke w/o the damper and am basically trying to figure out how long I need. I know I can just knock the ring off, but I'm not doing that. I have a new good yoke, but it needs to be cut down a bit and am trying to figure out exactly how much to cut it. Guess I'll check the trans part number to see if it's been swapped but it looks orig.
I am going to use a non stock yoke w/o the damper and am basically trying to figure out how long I need. I know I can just knock the ring off, but I'm not doing that. I have a new good yoke, but it needs to be cut down a bit and am trying to figure out exactly how much to cut it. Guess I'll check the trans part number to see if it's been swapped but it looks orig.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
Both are same length less than 5" CUJ to end. The one with counterbore will slide all the way on and the one w/o will not, it stops about 5/8" The driveshaft barely came out I find it hard to believe it will fit back in w/o the recess or a shorter yoke.
I am going to use a non stock yoke w/o the damper and am basically trying to figure out how long I need. I know I can just knock the ring off, but I'm not doing that. I have a new good yoke, but it needs to be cut down a bit and am trying to figure out exactly how much to cut it. Guess I'll check the trans part number to see if it's been swapped but it looks orig.
I am going to use a non stock yoke w/o the damper and am basically trying to figure out how long I need. I know I can just knock the ring off, but I'm not doing that. I have a new good yoke, but it needs to be cut down a bit and am trying to figure out exactly how much to cut it. Guess I'll check the trans part number to see if it's been swapped but it looks orig.
Your issue seems to confirm that and my thoughts about just using the slip-yoke that they had used previously for trucks isn't correct. I would think the rationalization would be to have less of a machined surface (the splines) and more raw shaft diameter for additional strength.
Found a "vetteoz" reference here:
http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/trans...ml#post5652820
And finally here on the CF. There's a image only with no dimensions but it seems to certainly confirm what you've stumbled upon:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1586750022
Last edited by WVZR-1; May 11, 2015 at 04:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 113
From: Michigan
Thx, I also found the same pics in some other threads. I just checked a few ago with a small long flat screw driver and it seems I can feel splines back past the length of the stop for my non-counterbore slip yokes. Doesn't seem twisted, but there is a deff clunk as the other yokes bottom out. Really don't wanna pull the tailshaft housing to check so I'll just cut my yoke down till it fits I guess. I'll start at 5/8" to make it equal to the non-counterbore yoke. I spoke to a driveshaft place about getting one with a counterbore and they just suggested I cut mine down, even if I have to cut it shorter than the stock length. I don't think the tailshaft housing bearing is too deep.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 113
From: Michigan
Ok all done! 1st cut was a bit longer than the stock yokes(about an 1/8) and almost fit. 2nd cut I tried for just about the same as stock, but messed up the angle and when squaring it up I came up a bit shorter(about 3/16) than the stock yokes. It fit np! So I guess the non-counterbore yoke would of fit. As per advice I got from Fastshafts I tapered the end and cleaned it up so it wouldn't cut the seal. I just hit it with the grinder and finished it with a scotch disc. To clean up the spline ends I just used a wire wheel and work it all around. Cleaned the inside of course with lots of brake clean, a toothbrush and air, then grease it up so it won't whine & installed.
Even with a tad shorter yoke I may still have more spline contact since my old yoke was counterbored.
Even with a tad shorter yoke I may still have more spline contact since my old yoke was counterbored.
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