I have a problem I have never run into before.. I have installed a lot of sbc starters but this one it's like the starter gear is too far from the flexplate. It the staggered bolt starter 168 tooth flexplate . Brand new starter and flexplate. I am using the factory style gear reduction starter like from the 97 Chevy Trucks.. I have been told the gear is wrong they have a 9 tooth and 11 and I also been told to mill the mounting pad of the starter.. Any suggestions?

 

The problem is that it grinds horrible during cranking. Checked with a paperclip and it is a little farther than it should be and you can see where it's only hitting the end of the flexplate..

 

Nobody has any ideas?

 

You mention both are new components. Post the part #'s of both the starter and also the flywheel.

You should be able to measure and post the depth of engagement into the flywheel. You mention that you "know" the depth of pinion and ring gear isn't correct.

 

Ok. Your supposed to measure with a paperclip I can stick 2 paperclips in there. I don't have the part numbers right now.. They are matching parts. 168 tooth flexplate and a staggered bolt pattern starter off a 97 Chevy vortec.

 

Can I fit a big starter in an 84 with headers? I've been using the vortec style starter because it's smaller and gear reduction.

 

check this one out or one like it. It'll be smaller and with the correct fit to your flywheel.

 

I do not have a 153 tooth flywheel. I rebuilt a 75 350 block 040 bore with a 385 stroker kit. It come with a 168 tooth flywheel. That one won't work

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...%20168%20tooth

There's tons of 168 tooth fitting starters out there.

Powermaster makes some of the best. Regardless of what you go with, I highly recommend you wrap it in thermotec's heat shielding, since you have headers.

 

You haven't mentioned yet what you actually have. If you have a starter NOW that you can shim the pinion closer to the flywheel you should have no need to buy yet another starter. You haven't yet mentioned the depth either. You mention having issues with both the "depth of the pinion into the flywheel" and also a "pitch" issue of the tooth match.

If you have a "knock-off" of some sort it could certainly be your issue. There's no-one that not knowing what you've got can help. You started out mentioning "both are new". Why would you be shopping again?

The flywheel is from?

 

Ok if you read the first post it states that I have the gear reduction starter for a vortec engine. 168 tooth flexplate. Came with the Eagle rotating assembly I believe it is a pioneer brand. As stated in the first post it is too far from the flexplate measuring with a paperclip as was taught to. I have always been told on the staggered bolt starter you can't shim closer only further away. I'm currently on my 3rd starter starting to make grinding noise again. The second one I had broke a gear inside the starter.. I think this one will too soon. I come here just to ask for advice if anyone has run into this kind of problem.

 

The pinion shafts on starters range from 48mm to 62mm from center to the mating flange to the block. Depending on brand and model number you can actually pick and choose to some extent. Do you have proper starter bolts? An offset starter might require a brace/bracket.

Mark the flywheel at maybe 4" increments and check your clearances at every one of them. 3 starters already? Quality of product used is maybe questionable. You insist on side stepping the "brand" for some reason.



Good luck

 

The flywheel I said was probably pioneer it's the one eagle sends with the rotating assembly. The starter brand is ultima from O'Reillys. I have used them for years and never once had a problem like this. I also work at a local shop. I install this brand on a lot of cars. I have the correct starter bolts with the knurled portion on them to line it up. I guess I need a hp starter like a powermaster or something then..

 

This is a very old block (I believe you mentioned) so maybe you have an issue with the block. Cracked at a mounting threaded bore. If these are remans then maybe you've got drive housings that are wore out. I don't know that I'd buy an expensive starter until I confirmed that I had the solution well in hand. How well do the bolts actually fit the starter?

 

No cracks in the block anywhere. New not reman starter and the bolts fit snug in the starter

 

I tried a bit to help you BUT this comment indicates you've got issues you apparently don't understand and spending more money won't help unless you make wise choices. I asked part #'s but you offered none. Oh well one last shot. If you're buying from Oriley have them change a 9000860 starter to their brand, that I believe should be a late PMGR cranking motor for 168 tooth f'wheel. I don't know that these bolts would be correct but they're done for the later PMGR metric drive housing and would I think be correct. GM # 12338064 and it has a tighter dimension to the mounting bores (I'm quite sure). The bolt is 3/8-16 but is done for the later 10mm housings. I don't know that the rebuilders or starter suppliers actually supply correct hardware for their starters. If the starter comes with bolts DON'T ASSUME they're correct.

An after-market starter would have a mounting pad of their choice to attach to the block so you would use their hardware that should be supplied.

I'm guessing your problem is maybe using your old starter hardware that was in the old engine or just laying around OR maybe the hardware in the box isn't correct if it came with the new starter.

Regardless of starter brand, hardware or what-ever if it's not shimmed correctly OR if you've an issue with a flywheel they will "all fail".

If that's what you've been sold - OH WELL

Your comment certainly hints you've part or hardware issues.

 

The part number you gave me crossed to a 32390 which I have used. This last one worked a few starts and started making the grind again. Don't have any old hardware because I just built it. They are correct because the knurled portion is in the starter and block when tightened.

 

If I shim it out the noise gets worse. Like I stated I have pulled the gear into the flexplate and measured with a paperclip and I can put at least 2 in. That right there tells me it's too far away. I also painted the starter gear and cranked it over to see where it was hitting. Again too far away. Bolts are correct I know that. Starter is the same as the part number you recommended. Flywheel has no missing teeth and the starter works for a few cranks then starts to sound bad. And like I said if I use any shims it gets worse. I have done this hundreds of times and never once run into this and I assume nobody here has either. So I will try to find someone who has.

 

Just throwing this out there.....

I rebuilt my 87 L98 to a 383, bought two of those "hi-torque" starters which were suppose to fit a 168 tooth fly wheel, neither one would shim, or align properly, I ended up chewing up the flywheel and replaced it with the 153 tooth and a factory starter, and voiloa, everything fit and worked like you would expect.

i don't know why or what the deal is, but neither my shop nor I could ever get them to align properly, so we gave up.

Again, this was my experience but it sounds really similar to what your experiencing.

Best of Luck

 

And u did think of that but it's externally balanced so mine uses the 400 flexplate... As far as I know that's only 168 tooth