Now that I have the SR and will need to take apart half the motor anyways, I was thinking, why not rebuild it? 120K already.

What is the most economical way to buy the parts?

1. Through GMPP or GM parts direct?
2. Summit Engine Rebuild kits
3. Jeggs?

What else can you guys recommend, and what parts will I need?
I want to do valvetrain and cam while im in there.

Those of you that have done this before, do you have rebuild kit part #'s?

Can it be done for less than $1000, not including the cam.

Thanks

 

Slow night?

TTT

 

you can get a set of hyperutectic pistons for $100 or so recondition your rods and crank with new bolts for around $300, {$450 will get eagle rods and a scat crank} balancing and short block assembly will be about $750. a new GM damper is $60, rings are $20-$80, ARP main bolts are $25, studs $50, a new oil pump kit is around $50 with a tube, get a zz4 pump or a melling. there's your short block ecno build up.

 

I came up with $1565.oo. Man I tought you could get away with $1000.00. Make so you're only in ther once though. Keep us posted with lots of pics. I thinking of doing the same!

Good luck!

 

gus, why do you want to rebuild it? is something wrong or do you just really want to pull the motor since you're getting into it deeply anyway? if nothing's wrong, i'd take a look at scorp. he's got a hellofa thing goin with a 175,000 +/- motor and not into it a ton of bux. :cool:

that way, you can take your time with a lower end buildup on another block that has some inches to it and spend the same kinda numbers you would with a 350 rebuilt .30 over. i know that superram is burnin a hole in your pocket, but there's just so much you can do with 350 inches spending almost the same kind of money you would on a 383. that way you'd get the flow you need....... just my .02.

by the way, does that unit look as good in the flesh as it did in the pics? :cheers:

 

It looks even better!!!!!!!!! I never really cared about the polishing, I just wanted a SR or MR, and i would paint it or something. Now I'm thinking......man I should take my time.....Darn it!!!!!

I really dont want to go in there or park the car more than once Cabo. If I yank her out, its going back in fer good or into the sea!!!!!

I have 2 very young baby girls (20 mos and 4 mos) that demand a lot of my time and money!

I dont want to start running it hard and have her pop on me!

I may just save up some dough and do the whole thing right, maybe even a 383 stroker if I can save enough.

 

So where should I buy the Parts?

GM or Mail order?

Are those econo Summit 350 rebuild kits any good?

 

Check the individual parts, it may cost a little more than the Summit kits package and you have the parts you want like different type of piston, rings...

 

might as well, as long as you keep the 383 under 6000 rpm you can do it very cheaply, basically the same as a 350 rebuild. taking in into the 6's most of us smarter people get SFI dampers and do internal balances, also there's the question of head flow, if you use 113 castings porting them is really really worth some HP. cam choice is another topic, the GM hotcam is a tried and trued combo that's just a bit bigger than the 219 cam & more suited to a street exhuast. the only reason i did a 357ci rebuild insted of a 383+ is this. #1 i have a modified TPI..would i get anymore power on a 383? not likely till i spend the $$ on a miniram. #2 balancing issues and RPM's since i had a limited budget and also happen to be a RPM junkie behind a 6spd the shorter stroke does have it's benifits. you can make a 383 hold togeather quite well at high RPM's if it's done right, just it's more than i wanted to spend. i have over $5,000 in the 357ci rebuild i'm almost done with. things add up !!!!!! espessialy when you do things really precision. i really didn't ever have one big expense just a lot of little ones that add up to thousands. injectors, ed wright doing a chip, runners, machine work, a single mass clutch conversion, new waterpump, some hoses etc...the easiest way i can think of to predict what your work will cost is write it out on paper very basically, double it and you'll have a real guess at what it will cost.

 

yeowie, congrats on the girls!!! they are just soooooo cool to watch grow up! my two daughters are in their late 20's and early 30's now and that's a great thing for a dad to watch too..... your kids turning into adults making adult decisions in life...... wow, it's awesome! anyway, back to your car..........
i know what you mean gus, it's the craps to have to keep goin back into the thing, so if i were you, i'd make a choice on where you want to be with your car. if you want some power and know you'll be happy with just a bit, then go on your existing motor.
the chances are better than average though, you're gonna end up wanting some 383 ( or whatever) kinda torque in the future and if that's the case, then all the lower end stuff you do to YOUR motor is virtually money down the drain. shoot, you can have the best of both worlds if you're patient tho!
if you get a set of heads and a cam to match up, you can get them into your car fairly cheaply along with the superram and still have them for the long range build... that's what i meant when i suggested to check with scorp on what he's done. that's a well thought out package he's put on his existing shortblock and he's making GREAT power.
that way, you'll have yourself a very nice motor (albeit one with some lower end mileage, but still pretty good) while you take your time building something on a stand somewhere and you're not duplicating expenses other than gaskets. heck, you could build something tailored to your tastes while taking your time acquiring the parts as they become available like you did with bruce's superram and still have a beast to drive. that might be the best of both worlds doing it that way.
a good set of heads and a cam/lifter package that you could use on your planned motor also would run.....what........ $1500-$2000 bucks????? you could concievably have your car up and running inside of a week and account for 30-40% of your other motor's build cost too.
just my thoughts on it gus....... geeze, there's a bunch of ways to go, it's just what works best for you in your particular situation.
congrats on the girls man, take a bunchca pics as they grow up, you can never have enough when you get to the other end :cheers:

 

My girls have made us very happy indeed, they do grow up fast indeed, I just want to get the second into her 12 month real quick and then slow it all down!!!!! I know you know what I mean!

I think I can consider a 383 kit. If its just the crank, rods, and pistons plus some block work, heck, I will do it. Only if I can use the same block though. I definitely want to use the same heads and block just for some sense of originality and matching components.

I plan on taking the heads out and having them completely rebuilt and ported.

Still tossed up over Hotcam or LPE219 and rocker ratio. I want to retain factory valve covers.

Thanks for all the tips guys!

 

I've got 105K on my L98 and also have been wrestling with what to do with my motor. It doesn't make any sense to me to spend a lot of money on a new intake or heads and ignore the bottom end.
At this point I'm leaning toward leaving the L98 in place so I can keep the car on the road while I put together a 383 and then swap it out when the new motor is ready.
I'm looking at options of building one up from scratch, starting with a short block, or possibly buying a complete 383 crate motor.
My biggest issue is the time required. I would love to build one up completely on my own, but am afraid it will turn into a very long-term project as I'm just starting a new job and won't have as much free time for the next year or so.
I talked to Lingenfelter and they have reasonable prices on L98 based 383 crate motors, so I'm probably leaning that way at the present time.

Mark

:cheers:

 

1.6 rockers clear fine with some easy mods to the covers.

 

Scorp- Do you have any pictures of what needs to be done? You always have pics and answers!!

Youre on my X-Mas card list!

 

Well I think I deleted them, but I was planning on clearancing a pair for Fastguy probably this weekend. I'll take some shots.

p.s.

You aren't going to send those X-Mas cards with the fast girls in a santa hat are you? :crazy:

 

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Well we will just have to wait and see......

See, i knew you would come through with pics.

watch this guys...

Hey Scorp, I'm thinking about possibly changing the cigarette lighter, do you have any pictures or tips on how to best do it, and what lighter weighs the least, and heats up the fastest?
I hear all the comparisons between the Japanese Electric ones, and the American butane version, I hear your having success with with Ferrous Nickel hydride\Nitrous hybrid. Some of the guys on 3rd gen say its worth about .5 seconds per cig. What do you think?
Please send pics.

Thanks

You guys are the best!

They dont make forums for Volvos!

 

:lol: :lol:
if you think you can get any decent rebuild to $1000- good luck
just gaskets, mounts and fluids will cost you damn nea $300!
then add machine work
then add crank
then add pistons
then add connecting rods
then add cam bearings
then add main bearings
then add lifters
then add pushrods
then add rockers
then add [insert 100 other parts here]

then dont forget labor and such too

for any decent rebuild- expect $3000 in parts alone.
heres a rundown of my ECONOMY rebuild
i got really good prices

machined block and crank- $750
Valvetrain (cam to vavlesprings) $700
Forged pistons and rings $520
Billet connecting rods $400
Opti- $200
30# injectors $160
fuel pump/ FPR $250
Bad butt Tranny rebuild and 2400 stall- $1300
Gaskets, mounts, coil, - $300+
Balancing and flywheel- $500
and a whole bunch of other crap i know i'm missing too...

keep in mind i had long tubes, No labor (thanks Kev) and a whole bunch of stuff at prices you wont see (like $1200 rods for $400)

Everything I got was new, but I did buy alot of stuff off the boards. I know its a stroker, but stroker parts cost as much as 355 parts, especially since the block was already machined.