Driver's Side Window Stays Down
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
On my 94 it started pulling away at the top and I put two screws about two inches long at the top of the door pad front and back put them in at a slight angle and the inside door sweep hides them well. They work like hooks on the door frame and work like a champ. If your door sweeps are bad good time to replace and any bulbs.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Well
New driver's side PW switch turned up this morning.
Just tested & no change.
So its not the switch.
There is a clue though.
New switch did exactly what old one did.
ie, passenger's window goes up & down ok.
Driver's side window stays down. However, when I toggle it forward to go up, no noise, BUT, when I toggle it to go down, at the point of releasing the pulled back toggle for it to go back into the 'neutral position', there is a definite click coming from the dash, where I expect the PW Control Module to be.
Any one know their way around the PW Control Module?
Are there relays in there??
Next Diagnostic step is to pull apart the door to get to the window motor Terminal 'A'.
If that tests clean then its pull 1/2 the dashboard apart to get to the PW Control Module.
Mulling whether to go after the PW Control Module 1st, because of the clicking. Sounds like something opening fractionally then closing back up with a 'click'.
CVT
New driver's side PW switch turned up this morning.
Just tested & no change.
So its not the switch.
There is a clue though.
New switch did exactly what old one did.
ie, passenger's window goes up & down ok.
Driver's side window stays down. However, when I toggle it forward to go up, no noise, BUT, when I toggle it to go down, at the point of releasing the pulled back toggle for it to go back into the 'neutral position', there is a definite click coming from the dash, where I expect the PW Control Module to be.
Any one know their way around the PW Control Module?
Are there relays in there??
Next Diagnostic step is to pull apart the door to get to the window motor Terminal 'A'.
If that tests clean then its pull 1/2 the dashboard apart to get to the PW Control Module.
Mulling whether to go after the PW Control Module 1st, because of the clicking. Sounds like something opening fractionally then closing back up with a 'click'.
CVT
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Well
New driver's side PW switch turned up this morning.
Just tested & no change.
So its not the switch.
There is a clue though.
New switch did exactly what old one did.
ie, passenger's window goes up & down ok.
Driver's side window stays down. However, when I toggle it forward to go up, no noise, BUT, when I toggle it to go down, at the point of releasing the pulled back toggle for it to go back into the 'neutral position', there is a definite click coming from the dash, where I expect the PW Control Module to be.
Any one know their way around the PW Control Module?
Are there relays in there??
Next Diagnostic step is to pull apart the door to get to the window motor Terminal 'A'.
If that tests clean then its pull 1/2 the dashboard apart to get to the PW Control Module.
Mulling whether to go after the PW Control Module 1st, because of the clicking. Sounds like something opening fractionally then closing back up with a 'click'.
CVT
New driver's side PW switch turned up this morning.
Just tested & no change.
So its not the switch.
There is a clue though.
New switch did exactly what old one did.
ie, passenger's window goes up & down ok.
Driver's side window stays down. However, when I toggle it forward to go up, no noise, BUT, when I toggle it to go down, at the point of releasing the pulled back toggle for it to go back into the 'neutral position', there is a definite click coming from the dash, where I expect the PW Control Module to be.
Any one know their way around the PW Control Module?
Are there relays in there??
Next Diagnostic step is to pull apart the door to get to the window motor Terminal 'A'.
If that tests clean then its pull 1/2 the dashboard apart to get to the PW Control Module.
Mulling whether to go after the PW Control Module 1st, because of the clicking. Sounds like something opening fractionally then closing back up with a 'click'.
CVT
the door pad is easy to take off just be gentle with the bezal can be tricky
Last edited by antfarmer2; Jun 10, 2015 at 10:57 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
Well
However, when I toggle it forward to go up, no noise, BUT, when I toggle it to go down, at the point of releasing the pulled back toggle for it to go back into the 'neutral position', there is a definite click coming from the dash, where I expect the PW Control Module to be.
Any one know their way around the PW Control Module?
Are there relays in there??
CVT
However, when I toggle it forward to go up, no noise, BUT, when I toggle it to go down, at the point of releasing the pulled back toggle for it to go back into the 'neutral position', there is a definite click coming from the dash, where I expect the PW Control Module to be.
Any one know their way around the PW Control Module?
Are there relays in there??
CVT
On a side note concerning your switch - In order to make technical assumptions based on voltage output you must first know the input voltage. If you had measured the input voltage to the switch and then the output voltage of the switch you cold have made an assumption based on voltage drop. However, you only had one piece and assumed the system was providing 12v nominal to the switch. If that doesn't make sense then let me know and I will explain it differently.
Back on topic. I believe you will find a bad (broken) wire, a disconnected wire/plug or a bad window motor.
Where did you find a replacement switch?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
That is a good sign. That means the the module is working. That module is there to give the driver side window the "Auto down" or "express down" feature. There is a relay in that module along with a circuit called a latch circuit but only on the "down side".
On a side note concerning your switch - In order to make technical assumptions based on voltage output you must first know the input voltage. If you had measured the input voltage to the switch and then the output voltage of the switch you cold have made an assumption based on voltage drop. However, you only had one piece and assumed the system was providing 12v nominal to the switch. If that doesn't make sense then let me know and I will explain it differently.
Back on topic. I believe you will find a bad (broken) wire, a disconnected wire/plug or a bad window motor.
Where did you find a replacement switch?
On a side note concerning your switch - In order to make technical assumptions based on voltage output you must first know the input voltage. If you had measured the input voltage to the switch and then the output voltage of the switch you cold have made an assumption based on voltage drop. However, you only had one piece and assumed the system was providing 12v nominal to the switch. If that doesn't make sense then let me know and I will explain it differently.
Back on topic. I believe you will find a bad (broken) wire, a disconnected wire/plug or a bad window motor.
Where did you find a replacement switch?
Switch from Ebay Motors search.
If you need supplier let me know.
Its a repro. but works ok so far.
CVT
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Okay
Door panel came off this morning.
A few missing screws, obviously it has been off some time in the past.
Next Diagnostic test is " Backprobe LH Power side window motor conn. with a Test Light from Term "A" to Ground. Does Test Light Light"?
Stuck on this one as I can see the top of the motor & plug but its in behind, & attached to, a sub-frame & can't get at the plug at the moment.
Anyone done this test & know what the trick is to get at Term "A"?
CVT
Door panel came off this morning.
A few missing screws, obviously it has been off some time in the past.
Next Diagnostic test is " Backprobe LH Power side window motor conn. with a Test Light from Term "A" to Ground. Does Test Light Light"?
Stuck on this one as I can see the top of the motor & plug but its in behind, & attached to, a sub-frame & can't get at the plug at the moment.
Anyone done this test & know what the trick is to get at Term "A"?
CVT
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Okay
Door panel came off this morning.
A few missing screws, obviously it has been off some time in the past.
Next Diagnostic test is " Backprobe LH Power side window motor conn. with a Test Light from Term "A" to Ground. Does Test Light Light"?
Stuck on this one as I can see the top of the motor & plug but its in behind, & attached to, a sub-frame & can't get at the plug at the moment.
Anyone done this test & know what the trick is to get at Term "A"?
CVT
Door panel came off this morning.
A few missing screws, obviously it has been off some time in the past.
Next Diagnostic test is " Backprobe LH Power side window motor conn. with a Test Light from Term "A" to Ground. Does Test Light Light"?
Stuck on this one as I can see the top of the motor & plug but its in behind, & attached to, a sub-frame & can't get at the plug at the moment.
Anyone done this test & know what the trick is to get at Term "A"?
CVT
Don't usually Bump, but need some thoughts on in situ Terminal A access.
Thanks
CVT
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
Don't have an answer for you but I can recommend doing a search for window regulator removal or power window motor removal.
If that doesn't work then I suggest making a new thread with a title of maybe removing power window motor.
Most people will ignore threads that are this long as they believe the issue is already resolved.
If that doesn't work then I suggest making a new thread with a title of maybe removing power window motor.
Most people will ignore threads that are this long as they believe the issue is already resolved.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Don't have an answer for you but I can recommend doing a search for window regulator removal or power window motor removal.
If that doesn't work then I suggest making a new thread with a title of maybe removing power window motor.
Most people will ignore threads that are this long as they believe the issue is already resolved.
If that doesn't work then I suggest making a new thread with a title of maybe removing power window motor.
Most people will ignore threads that are this long as they believe the issue is already resolved.
As you can probably gather, I am trying to avoid having to demolish the inner door structure.
Looks somewhat inevitable at this stage
CVT
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Read a few threads & articles on moving the 'downed" window up & where they couldn't readily get at the motor. If they could access the wires leading in - they cut the wires & put car jumper leads on to give 12V straight to the motor.
Tried that via a couple of fused jumpers, using a 12v lawn tractor battery I had handy, but nothing budged, nothing even tried to budge.
So, unless someone says a lawn tractor battery won't give enough amps to move a PW motor, I will be pulling the regulator & motor next for a closer look at the motor.
CVT
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Been busy & just now getting back to it.
Read a few threads & articles on moving the 'downed" window up & where they couldn't readily get at the motor. If they could access the wires leading in - they cut the wires & put car jumper leads on to give 12V straight to the motor.
Tried that via a couple of fused jumpers, using a 12v lawn tractor battery I had handy, but nothing budged, nothing even tried to budge.
So, unless someone says a lawn tractor battery won't give enough amps to move a PW motor, I will be pulling the regulator & motor next for a closer look at the motor.
CVT
Read a few threads & articles on moving the 'downed" window up & where they couldn't readily get at the motor. If they could access the wires leading in - they cut the wires & put car jumper leads on to give 12V straight to the motor.
Tried that via a couple of fused jumpers, using a 12v lawn tractor battery I had handy, but nothing budged, nothing even tried to budge.
So, unless someone says a lawn tractor battery won't give enough amps to move a PW motor, I will be pulling the regulator & motor next for a closer look at the motor.
CVT