Driver's Side Window Stays Down
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Driver's Side Window Stays Down
1995 C4 Coupe.
Lowered Driver's window this morning. Won't come back up.
Feels electrically dead. No grinding/stripped plastic gear noises.
Passenger's side is okay.
One clue - if I toggle the Driver's door mounted power window switch back, as if lowering window, then release it, there is a 'click' after the release.
Sounds like a relay & seems to be coming from behind dashboard, over on RHS.
Not sure if the 30 amp Power Window Circuit Breaker 'M' in the fuse box covers each door window independently, or if it goes, both windows would be immobile??
Any suggestions for troubleshooting, fixing, appreciated
CVT
Lowered Driver's window this morning. Won't come back up.
Feels electrically dead. No grinding/stripped plastic gear noises.
Passenger's side is okay.
One clue - if I toggle the Driver's door mounted power window switch back, as if lowering window, then release it, there is a 'click' after the release.
Sounds like a relay & seems to be coming from behind dashboard, over on RHS.
Not sure if the 30 amp Power Window Circuit Breaker 'M' in the fuse box covers each door window independently, or if it goes, both windows would be immobile??
Any suggestions for troubleshooting, fixing, appreciated
CVT
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
1995 C4 Coupe.
Lowered Driver's window this morning. Won't come back up.
Feels electrically dead. No grinding/stripped plastic gear noises.
Passenger's side is okay.
One clue - if I toggle the Driver's door mounted power window switch back, as if lowering window, then release it, there is a 'click' after the release.
Sounds like a relay & seems to be coming from behind dashboard, over on RHS.
Not sure if the 30 amp Power Window Circuit Breaker 'M' in the fuse box covers each door window independently, or if it goes, both windows would be immobile??
Any suggestions for troubleshooting, fixing, appreciated
CVT
Lowered Driver's window this morning. Won't come back up.
Feels electrically dead. No grinding/stripped plastic gear noises.
Passenger's side is okay.
One clue - if I toggle the Driver's door mounted power window switch back, as if lowering window, then release it, there is a 'click' after the release.
Sounds like a relay & seems to be coming from behind dashboard, over on RHS.
Not sure if the 30 amp Power Window Circuit Breaker 'M' in the fuse box covers each door window independently, or if it goes, both windows would be immobile??
Any suggestions for troubleshooting, fixing, appreciated
CVT
Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 697
Likes: 162
From: Huntington WV
Mine was doing that too. The drivers side switch assembly is tough to find. I carefully took mine apart and cleaned all of the contacts in the switch. Works fine now. The contacts get a little carbon buildup over time.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Thanks
CVT
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
Quick check for a stuck/bad window motor.
Key on engine off watch the interior lights while pressing the window switch. If the lights dim the motor is stuck if the interior lights do not change intensity you have an open circuit in the system.
Used car quick fix, works for tired/stuck window motors.
Engine running = E system @ 14V.
Hold the window button in the up position & slam the door closed. May take several attempts to get the window up.
Key on engine off watch the interior lights while pressing the window switch. If the lights dim the motor is stuck if the interior lights do not change intensity you have an open circuit in the system.
Used car quick fix, works for tired/stuck window motors.
Engine running = E system @ 14V.
Hold the window button in the up position & slam the door closed. May take several attempts to get the window up.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Would appreciate some guidance as regards disassembling the switch assembly.
I have had a good look at the unit, which resembles a large black plastic match box, with a wiring module attached. Looks like you have to get a fine screwdriver under some clips?, or something like that. Can't see any obvious screws to undo.
Thanks
CVT
PS - once opened is it easy to get around in there or are there springs that have to be caught before they take off?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Hi Polo Vert
Would appreciate some guidance as regards disassembling the switch assembly.
I have had a good look at the unit, which resembles a large black plastic match box, with a wiring module attached. Looks like you have to get a fine screwdriver under some clips?, or something like that. Can't see any obvious screws to undo.
Thanks
CVT
PS - once opened is it easy to get around in there or are there springs that have to be caught before they take off?
Would appreciate some guidance as regards disassembling the switch assembly.
I have had a good look at the unit, which resembles a large black plastic match box, with a wiring module attached. Looks like you have to get a fine screwdriver under some clips?, or something like that. Can't see any obvious screws to undo.
Thanks
CVT
PS - once opened is it easy to get around in there or are there springs that have to be caught before they take off?
Not sure if good idea see what others say but worked for me.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Driver's Side Window Stays Down
I've got hold of a wiring diagram for 95 C4.
Want to pull the wires from the switch & jumper the LHS to bypass the driver's switch.
Can anyone tell me which 2 wires I should connect to get driver's side window back up?
Thanks
CVT
Want to pull the wires from the switch & jumper the LHS to bypass the driver's switch.
Can anyone tell me which 2 wires I should connect to get driver's side window back up?
Thanks
CVT
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
Here is the troubleshooting guide from the FSM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
To answer your question directly
Can anyone tell me which 2 wires I should connect to get driver's side window back up?
The answer is
"Momentarily connect a fused jumper from LH power side window motor conn term "B" to ground."
Can anyone tell me which 2 wires I should connect to get driver's side window back up?
The answer is
"Momentarily connect a fused jumper from LH power side window motor conn term "B" to ground."
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
I actually put the wrong diagram up. Later today I will put the wiring circuit diagram on here.
CVT
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
Driver's Side Window Stays Down
I mistook your Diagnostics checklist as being from me, ilo the wiring diag. There is no difference in the wiring diagrams, just posted it twice in error.
Anyway, I have run a test lamp on 1st 2 items on Diagnostic Checklist,
(Backprobe D to Ground then C to Ground. Then D to C with switch up & down). In all cases lamp lit up.
This suggests Switch is ok. In which case there is not much point in trying to pull it apart to clean it, or I should do that anyway.??
Also, running a fused jumper from PW motor "Term B" to ground to to get window to go up - is the Test Light considered a 'fused jumper"?
If it shouldn't be used, can you point me to a source of fused jumpers?
Thanks
CVT
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
Messy day yesterday.
I mistook your Diagnostics checklist as being from me, ilo the wiring diag. There is no difference in the wiring diagrams, just posted it twice in error.
Anyway, I have run a test lamp on 1st 2 items on Diagnostic Checklist,
(Backprobe D to Ground then C to Ground. Then D to C with switch up & down). In all cases lamp lit up.
This suggests Switch is ok. In which case there is not much point in trying to pull it apart to clean it, or I should do that anyway.??
Also, running a fused jumper from PW motor "Term B" to ground to to get window to go up - is the Test Light considered a 'fused jumper"?
If it shouldn't be used, can you point me to a source of fused jumpers?
Thanks
CVT
I mistook your Diagnostics checklist as being from me, ilo the wiring diag. There is no difference in the wiring diagrams, just posted it twice in error.
Anyway, I have run a test lamp on 1st 2 items on Diagnostic Checklist,
(Backprobe D to Ground then C to Ground. Then D to C with switch up & down). In all cases lamp lit up.
This suggests Switch is ok. In which case there is not much point in trying to pull it apart to clean it, or I should do that anyway.??
Also, running a fused jumper from PW motor "Term B" to ground to to get window to go up - is the Test Light considered a 'fused jumper"?
If it shouldn't be used, can you point me to a source of fused jumpers?
Thanks
CVT
Short answer - No. You stand a better chance breaking a working part that is expensive or impossible to replace.
Second question - Is a test light condidered a fused jumper.
Short answer - No. You will overload the test light and it will become a useless mass of plastic and wires.
Third question - can you point me to a source of fused jumpers
Short answer - see the linked video for how to build. Parts can be bought at any Wal-Mart or auto parts store.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12h7E5colm4
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3
First question - should I take it apart anyway
Short answer - No. You stand a better chance breaking a working part that is expensive or impossible to replace.
Second question - Is a test light condidered a fused jumper.
Short answer - No. You will overload the test light and it will become a useless mass of plastic and wires.
Third question - can you point me to a source of fused jumpers
Short answer - see the linked video for how to build. Parts can be bought at any Wal-Mart or auto parts store.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12h7E5colm4
Short answer - No. You stand a better chance breaking a working part that is expensive or impossible to replace.
Second question - Is a test light condidered a fused jumper.
Short answer - No. You will overload the test light and it will become a useless mass of plastic and wires.
Third question - can you point me to a source of fused jumpers
Short answer - see the linked video for how to build. Parts can be bought at any Wal-Mart or auto parts store.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12h7E5colm4
I can put one of those together.
CVT
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 3