fantom smoke
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 43
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fantom smoke
Hello all....I have a 89 6 speed...I really need the best minds on this issue..first I will state what's new
Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, incoming air temp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, ignition, cap and rotor, wires, oil pressure switch, oxygen sensor
Now here's the issues.....when the car starts which takes 4 seconds For some reason it starts weak not strong with a high rpm when cold like most cars.....second I have the infamous low throttle stumble (probably injectors)....third ..I now have some smoke coming from the passenger side rear area of the engine once it warms up and the oil pressure starts to drop steadily.....if I drive it the smoke will be more pronounced but always comes from the passenger side area ....when I lift the hood i can't really tell where the smoke comes from directly....but it's from the rear somewhere ...when driven the oil pressure gets lower and lower to the point where it shows 6 psi at idle then goes up to about 25 when moving but goes back down when at a light ...I changed the oil at the same as the pressure switch so I know it has oil and it only leaves few drops to form a 2-4 inch wet spot and it doesn't keep leaking it stops after the car is parked for a little...my mechanic feels it's the intake manifold and I won't argue that ....is there anything else I may be missing....the low oil pressure reading started after the pressure switch swap but we checked it so at most it's defective but NOT the source of the leak ...PLEASE PLEASE HELP...I will pull the trigger on replacement of the manifold gasket but don't want to do it as still have the leak/smoke
Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, incoming air temp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, ignition, cap and rotor, wires, oil pressure switch, oxygen sensor
Now here's the issues.....when the car starts which takes 4 seconds For some reason it starts weak not strong with a high rpm when cold like most cars.....second I have the infamous low throttle stumble (probably injectors)....third ..I now have some smoke coming from the passenger side rear area of the engine once it warms up and the oil pressure starts to drop steadily.....if I drive it the smoke will be more pronounced but always comes from the passenger side area ....when I lift the hood i can't really tell where the smoke comes from directly....but it's from the rear somewhere ...when driven the oil pressure gets lower and lower to the point where it shows 6 psi at idle then goes up to about 25 when moving but goes back down when at a light ...I changed the oil at the same as the pressure switch so I know it has oil and it only leaves few drops to form a 2-4 inch wet spot and it doesn't keep leaking it stops after the car is parked for a little...my mechanic feels it's the intake manifold and I won't argue that ....is there anything else I may be missing....the low oil pressure reading started after the pressure switch swap but we checked it so at most it's defective but NOT the source of the leak ...PLEASE PLEASE HELP...I will pull the trigger on replacement of the manifold gasket but don't want to do it as still have the leak/smoke
Last edited by inimeg6482; Jun 1, 2015 at 12:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Hello all....I have a 89 6 speed...I really need the best minds on this issue..first I will state what's new
Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, incoming air temp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, ignition, cap and rotor, wires, oil pressure switch, oxygen sensor
Now here's the issues.....when the car starts which takes 4 seconds For some reason it starts weak not strong with a high rpm when cold like most cars.....second I have the infamous low throttle stumble (probably injectors)....third ..I now have some smoke coming from the passenger side rear area of the engine once it warms up and the oil pressure starts to drop steadily.....if I drive it the smoke will be more pronounced but always comes from the passenger side area ....when I lift the hood i can't really tell where the smoke comes from directly....but it's from the rear somewhere ...when driven the oil pressure gets lower and lower to the point where it shows 6 psi at idle then goes up to about 25 when moving but goes back down when at a light ...I changed the oil at the same as the pressure switch so I know it has oil and it only leaves few drops to form a 2-4 inch wet spot and it doesn't keep leaking it stops after the car is parked for a little...my mechanic feels it's the intake manifold and I won't argue that ....is there anything else I may be missing....the low oil pressure reading started after the pressure switch swap but we checked it so at most it's defective but NOT the source of the leak ...PLEASE PLEASE HELP...I will pull the trigger on replacement of the manifold gasket but don't want to do it as still have the leak/smoke
Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, incoming air temp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, ignition, cap and rotor, wires, oil pressure switch, oxygen sensor
Now here's the issues.....when the car starts which takes 4 seconds For some reason it starts weak not strong with a high rpm when cold like most cars.....second I have the infamous low throttle stumble (probably injectors)....third ..I now have some smoke coming from the passenger side rear area of the engine once it warms up and the oil pressure starts to drop steadily.....if I drive it the smoke will be more pronounced but always comes from the passenger side area ....when I lift the hood i can't really tell where the smoke comes from directly....but it's from the rear somewhere ...when driven the oil pressure gets lower and lower to the point where it shows 6 psi at idle then goes up to about 25 when moving but goes back down when at a light ...I changed the oil at the same as the pressure switch so I know it has oil and it only leaves few drops to form a 2-4 inch wet spot and it doesn't keep leaking it stops after the car is parked for a little...my mechanic feels it's the intake manifold and I won't argue that ....is there anything else I may be missing....the low oil pressure reading started after the pressure switch swap but we checked it so at most it's defective but NOT the source of the leak ...PLEASE PLEASE HELP...I will pull the trigger on replacement of the manifold gasket but don't want to do it as still have the leak/smoke
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Start by pulling all the spark plugs on the passenger's side. What your looking for is oil fouling on the plugs. This would be a good indication of a bad intake gasket. Also check your intake manifold bolts to see if they are tight.
Next logical area for smoke would be to check the valve covers. Look for oil on the heads.
Automatic or manual. Automatic....check fluid level. Look under the car to see if you have transmission fluid or oil splashed on the underside and hitting the exhaust pipes.
How many miles on the engine?
Next logical area for smoke would be to check the valve covers. Look for oil on the heads.
Automatic or manual. Automatic....check fluid level. Look under the car to see if you have transmission fluid or oil splashed on the underside and hitting the exhaust pipes.
How many miles on the engine?
Last edited by John A. Marker; Jun 1, 2015 at 02:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Start by pulling all the spark plugs on the passenger's side. What your looking for is oil fouling on the plugs. This would be a good indication of a bad intake gasket. Also check your intake manifold bolts to see if they are tight.
Next logical area for smoke would be to check the valve covers. Look for oil on the heads.
Automatic or manual. Automatic....check fluid level. Look under the car to see if you have transmission fluid or oil splashed on the underside and hitting the exhaust pipes.
How many miles on the engine?
Next logical area for smoke would be to check the valve covers. Look for oil on the heads.
Automatic or manual. Automatic....check fluid level. Look under the car to see if you have transmission fluid or oil splashed on the underside and hitting the exhaust pipes.
How many miles on the engine?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Since your not doing the work yourself, the costs would be high to do the head gaskets. You are already part way to the head gaskets. Go ahead and ask your mechanic what the additional cost would be....mostly labor to remove the heads, exhaust manifold and button everything back up again. You might consider changing the valve seas if the heads are off with that many miles on the engine.
Your stock injectors should be 22 pound, replace with the same (not the brand but the same 22 pound rated injector at 43.5 psi at the fuel rail).
I am sure that your mechanic will be rubbing his hands together saying "we eat steaks this month" if you have him do all this work. Be prepared for a large $$ amount.....also knows as Corvette TAX.
I will assume that you do not have tools, time or ability to do this.
Your stock injectors should be 22 pound, replace with the same (not the brand but the same 22 pound rated injector at 43.5 psi at the fuel rail).
I am sure that your mechanic will be rubbing his hands together saying "we eat steaks this month" if you have him do all this work. Be prepared for a large $$ amount.....also knows as Corvette TAX.
I will assume that you do not have tools, time or ability to do this.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Since your not doing the work yourself, the costs would be high to do the head gaskets. You are already part way to the head gaskets. Go ahead and ask your mechanic what the additional cost would be....mostly labor to remove the heads, exhaust manifold and button everything back up again. You might consider changing the valve seas if the heads are off with that many miles on the engine.
Your stock injectors should be 22 pound, replace with the same (not the brand but the same 22 pound rated injector at 43.5 psi at the fuel rail).
I am sure that your mechanic will be rubbing his hands together saying "we eat steaks this month" if you have him do all this work. Be prepared for a large $$ amount.....also knows as Corvette TAX.
I will assume that you do not have tools, time or ability to do this.
Your stock injectors should be 22 pound, replace with the same (not the brand but the same 22 pound rated injector at 43.5 psi at the fuel rail).
I am sure that your mechanic will be rubbing his hands together saying "we eat steaks this month" if you have him do all this work. Be prepared for a large $$ amount.....also knows as Corvette TAX.
I will assume that you do not have tools, time or ability to do this.
...I am one of the lucky ones and have a mechanic that I been dealing with for a long time ...he is only charging me $400 for the intake manifold gasket replacement....Im sure this is going to be a $1,000 ordeal before its done because I will replace the injectors thermostat and possibly head gaskets.....is it a lot more work to do the head gaskets with the intake manifold off.....my mechanic is great he charges based on how much work it is not the standard labor cost...its his shop so he sometimes just gives a price he wants.....he is EXTREMELY fair
....(the result of being a loyal customer)...I just want to know is there a lot more to go through to do the head gaskets......and what is involved with replacing valve seals
Last edited by inimeg6482; Jun 1, 2015 at 03:39 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
You already have every thing off on the top half to replace the intake gasket. Injectors are in the intake. Easy job with it off, you can put it on the bench and not have to lean over the engine to get to all of them. Might replace the "O" rings on fuel rail since your replacing the injectors and will have the rail off. "O" rings cheap. Injectors $300-$400 or more depending on source (no markup).
Heads...remove the exhaust manifolds. Loosen rocker arms and remove push rods. Undo the head bolts 17 per side. Pull heads. Scrape off old gaskets on block and heads. You mechanic may suggest using new head bolts. Need new head gaskets and new exhaust manifold gaskets. Head gaskets set includes everything your need....including the intake about $80.00...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet
To replace seals easy with heads off. Many of us have replaced the seals with the heads still on the engine using compressed air or the rope trick. Depress the springs, remove keepers, release spring, remove spring. Remove old seals from valve stems. Push new seals onto stems, slid down stem and push snug onto block. Replace spring and keepers....onto the next valve. Suggest using Fel-Pro INTAKE seals for all valves including the exhaust. About $30-$35 cost for seals for two heads.
That is a blow by blow of what you need to do. You will also have cost of, new stat (if you replace) and new stat gasket, oil, oil filter and coolant.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Heads...remove the exhaust manifolds. Loosen rocker arms and remove push rods. Undo the head bolts 17 per side. Pull heads. Scrape off old gaskets on block and heads. You mechanic may suggest using new head bolts. Need new head gaskets and new exhaust manifold gaskets. Head gaskets set includes everything your need....including the intake about $80.00...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet
To replace seals easy with heads off. Many of us have replaced the seals with the heads still on the engine using compressed air or the rope trick. Depress the springs, remove keepers, release spring, remove spring. Remove old seals from valve stems. Push new seals onto stems, slid down stem and push snug onto block. Replace spring and keepers....onto the next valve. Suggest using Fel-Pro INTAKE seals for all valves including the exhaust. About $30-$35 cost for seals for two heads.
That is a blow by blow of what you need to do. You will also have cost of, new stat (if you replace) and new stat gasket, oil, oil filter and coolant.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Last edited by John A. Marker; Jun 1, 2015 at 04:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
You already have every thing off on the top half to replace the intake gasket. Injectors are in the intake. Easy job with it off, you can put it on the bench and not have to lean over the engine to get to all of them. Might replace the "O" rings on fuel rail since your replacing the injectors and will have the rail off. "O" rings cheap. Injectors $300-$400 or more depending on source (no markup).
Heads...remove the exhaust manifolds. Loosen rocker arms and remove push rods. Undo the head bolts 17 per side. Pull heads. Scrape off old gaskets on block and heads. You mechanic may suggest using new head bolts. Need new head gaskets and new exhaust manifold gaskets. Head gaskets set includes everything your need....including the intake about $80.00...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet
To replace seals easy with heads off. Many of us have replaced the seals with the heads still on the engine using compressed air or the rope trick. Depress the springs, remove keepers, release spring, remove spring. Remove old seals from valve stems. Push new seals onto stems, slid down stem and push snug onto block. Replace spring and keepers....onto the next valve. Suggest using Fel-Pro INTAKE seals for all valves including the exhaust. About $30-$35 cost for seals for two heads.
That is a blow by blow of what you need to do. You will also have cost of, new stat (if you replace) and new stat gasket, oil, oil filter and coolant.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Heads...remove the exhaust manifolds. Loosen rocker arms and remove push rods. Undo the head bolts 17 per side. Pull heads. Scrape off old gaskets on block and heads. You mechanic may suggest using new head bolts. Need new head gaskets and new exhaust manifold gaskets. Head gaskets set includes everything your need....including the intake about $80.00...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet
To replace seals easy with heads off. Many of us have replaced the seals with the heads still on the engine using compressed air or the rope trick. Depress the springs, remove keepers, release spring, remove spring. Remove old seals from valve stems. Push new seals onto stems, slid down stem and push snug onto block. Replace spring and keepers....onto the next valve. Suggest using Fel-Pro INTAKE seals for all valves including the exhaust. About $30-$35 cost for seals for two heads.
That is a blow by blow of what you need to do. You will also have cost of, new stat (if you replace) and new stat gasket, oil, oil filter and coolant.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
hmm...sounds very involved but necessary.....um ...what are your thoughts on an engine swap.....don't need BIG power just atleast 290-300 at the wheels ...all I hear about is the lsx swaps but they are expensive ....are there any other engines that are a decent swap and wont have me needing to put on a mask and go into a bank
Last edited by inimeg6482; Jun 1, 2015 at 05:34 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
You keep talking $$$$. If you were to go and swap engines. For the 89 I would suggest a ZZ4 383 basic short block, add your cam and good heads (AFR or the like) and then a good intake.
I did the ZZ4 short block (350), Lingenfelter 74211 cam, had the AFR 180 heads and SuperRam intake, runner and plenum and was into this set up for over $6000 and I did all the work myself (this was about 6 years ago). That cost was just parts.
The other important factor is that you will have to find someone that can tune the car and burn a new chip for your modifications. If there is not someone that is good and local, they your into data logging and sending a chip back and forth for a mail order tune.
I did the ZZ4 short block (350), Lingenfelter 74211 cam, had the AFR 180 heads and SuperRam intake, runner and plenum and was into this set up for over $6000 and I did all the work myself (this was about 6 years ago). That cost was just parts.
The other important factor is that you will have to find someone that can tune the car and burn a new chip for your modifications. If there is not someone that is good and local, they your into data logging and sending a chip back and forth for a mail order tune.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
You keep talking $$$$. If you were to go and swap engines. For the 89 I would suggest a ZZ4 383 basic short block, add your cam and good heads (AFR or the like) and then a good intake.
I did the ZZ4 short block (350), Lingenfelter 74211 cam, had the AFR 180 heads and SuperRam intake, runner and plenum and was into this set up for over $6000 and I did all the work myself (this was about 6 years ago). That cost was just parts.
The other important factor is that you will have to find someone that can tune the car and burn a new chip for your modifications. If there is not someone that is good and local, they your into data logging and sending a chip back and forth for a mail order tune.
I did the ZZ4 short block (350), Lingenfelter 74211 cam, had the AFR 180 heads and SuperRam intake, runner and plenum and was into this set up for over $6000 and I did all the work myself (this was about 6 years ago). That cost was just parts.
The other important factor is that you will have to find someone that can tune the car and burn a new chip for your modifications. If there is not someone that is good and local, they your into data logging and sending a chip back and forth for a mail order tune.
