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Determine the resistor value, as posted by Churchkey,
then order the correct key from eBay. Research various key cutters (locksmiths) for prices. Price to cut keys does vary.
Searched but couldn't find info on duplicating an ignition (and door) keys to have an xtra set.
I guess dealers aren't doing this anymore, have to visit a locksmith who can read it?
'90 mechanical codes for both keys may be available from the dealer but the resistance code is NOT, if you have a working key they can "drop it" to get it's value and the cuts of yours could be compared to the production records. Done deal at the dealer. You'll need a current registration OR insurance card generally and ID, if you've a good relationship with the dealer it may be a courtesy service, if not be prepared to pay something.
I had an extra key made for mine at the dealer, cost $45.00. A local lock shop told me a couple months later that they make them for $15.00. That's my luck.
Pa
I had an extra key made for mine at the dealer, cost $45.00. A local lock shop told me a couple months later that they make them for $15.00. That's my luck.
Pa
If that included the "key call" for the key codes that doesn't surprise me. I doubt that you walked in and either had copies made of your keys or if you had the codes were charged the $45 that you mention. You also had the key done on an OE blank I'd think vs. an "other than" -
It's very easy for someone to "lowball" and tell you I could have "done that for less" after the fact for any purchase or service you buy "ANYWHERE".
I drove the Vett. to the dealer, took the key out of the switch, walked into the parts dept. and ask them for a key. handed the man my key ,he turned around and put my key into a thing that read the code, went to a box got a blank, cut the key, wrote out a bill and said that will be $43.76 including tax.
When I was talking to the man at the lock & key shop sometime later, I mentioned how much I paid for an ignition key he said "we can read the code and cut them all the time for $15.00". I've known him for twenty five years and don't think he would lie to me.
Pa
I read the resistance and ordered two blanks for about $12 ($6) each. I called around for who can cut them and a local Chevy dealer said they will cut them for free, even after I told them that I already had aftermarket key blanks. I got the keys in the mail yesterday and will hopefully get them cut tomorrow.
Good luck with your keys.
Edit/Update: The dealer cut the two keys for no cost today. They both work fine. Total for 2 ignition keys was $12.
I drove the Vett. to the dealer, took the key out of the switch, walked into the parts dept. and ask them for a key. handed the man my key ,he turned around and put my key into a thing that read the code, went to a box got a blank, cut the key, wrote out a bill and said that will be $43.76 including tax.
When I was talking to the man at the lock & key shop sometime later, I mentioned how much I paid for an ignition key he said "we can read the code and cut them all the time for $15.00". I've known him for twenty five years and don't think he would lie to me.
Pa
WOW - I believe the retail pricing of the early VATS has increased dramatically but even at "retail" I would have expected something $30 or maybe less and some/most understanding the competitiveness of the commodity I believe generally price a bit more competitively. I'm sure you got a "pair" of keys but the pricing is certainly a stretch I'd think.
I read the resistance and ordered two blanks for about $12 ($6) each. I called around for who can cut them and a local Chevy dealer said they will cut them for free, even after I told them that I already had aftermarket key blanks. I got the keys in the mail yesterday and will hopefully get them cut tomorrow.
Good luck with your keys.
Did the same, local Chevy dealer did it for me for free also!
I measured mine with a multimeter, ordered NOS blanks off of ebay (four for 14 dollars shipped) and had them cut for free at Home Depot.
I will say this. The only key that came with my car when I bought it was clearly not an OEM key. The OEM blanks were much better, there were differences in the area that held the resistor. In fact, the aftermarket key's resistor failed and I was lucky that I had already read what the resistance was so that I could get the correct OEM keys.
I read the resistance on my working ignition key and ordered a couple off fleabay. Then went to my local Ace hardware store where they cut the keys for me - with no charge, maybe the advantage of being in a small town. I had anticipated that they would charge the regular price for doing the key so that was a nice surprise. The non-VAT key I got cut there as well since they had the blank.