How to remove Radiator (Late C4)
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
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From: Park City Utah
How to remove Radiator (Late C4)
EDIT:
Because Photosuckit...sucks so badly and decided to charge me for linking to my own pics (f-them), this post has been re-built and re-posted on page 2, post number 33.
Fast forward to page 2, post #32 for a late C4, radiator removal tutorial. Sorry for the confusion.
.
Because Photosuckit...sucks so badly and decided to charge me for linking to my own pics (f-them), this post has been re-built and re-posted on page 2, post number 33.
Fast forward to page 2, post #32 for a late C4, radiator removal tutorial. Sorry for the confusion.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jan 23, 2020 at 07:03 PM.
Popular Reply
Oct 17, 2017, 11:10 PM
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Moving over to the passenger's side, we do the same basic procedure, except that we don't need to move the air pump to access the small screws. Here is a blurry shot of me removing the small, 7mm head screws....
Attachment 48216457
And then the upper, 10 and 13mm hardware here...
Attachment 48216458
The hose...
Attachment 48216459
After that, there are 5, 10mm headed bolts along the top, that secure the fans to the shroud. Pull them out...
Three here on the passenger's side;
Attachment 48216460
And two on the driver's side;
Attachment 48216461
NOW, the shroud is ready to come up and out...however, there is a tab on the passenger's side that interferes w/the AC lines, so the shroud has to come out, lifting the driver's side first. Here is the Tab and AC lines where they'll interfere...
Attachment 48216462
And here is a blurry pic of the shroud being lifted, driver's side first, up and out....
Attachment 48216463
That's the bulk of it. Once you've got the shroud out, it will look something like this:
Attachment 48216464
All that is left is to remove upper and lower radiator hoses (coolant should be done draining by this point), and lift the old radiator up and out of it's rubber cradles. Piece of cake!
Attachment 48216465
Attachment 48216457
And then the upper, 10 and 13mm hardware here...
Attachment 48216458
The hose...
Attachment 48216459
After that, there are 5, 10mm headed bolts along the top, that secure the fans to the shroud. Pull them out...
Three here on the passenger's side;
Attachment 48216460
And two on the driver's side;
Attachment 48216461
NOW, the shroud is ready to come up and out...however, there is a tab on the passenger's side that interferes w/the AC lines, so the shroud has to come out, lifting the driver's side first. Here is the Tab and AC lines where they'll interfere...
Attachment 48216462
And here is a blurry pic of the shroud being lifted, driver's side first, up and out....
Attachment 48216463
That's the bulk of it. Once you've got the shroud out, it will look something like this:
Attachment 48216464
All that is left is to remove upper and lower radiator hoses (coolant should be done draining by this point), and lift the old radiator up and out of it's rubber cradles. Piece of cake!
Attachment 48216465
Race Director
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 86
I kid you not; for a few years while my parents owned my car my dad cut the top of the housing and then installed a huge piano hinge. He was super proud of it. I was so angry and it was the first thing I replaced when I got the car back.
Sorry for the thread jack but does anyone know where I can get the stickers for the shroud (or whatever its called)
Sorry for the thread jack but does anyone know where I can get the stickers for the shroud (or whatever its called)
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Yeah. I know. I just did a flush a couple years ago. In fact, here is my 3 year old Dexcool....Looks like the day I put it in...
And here is my 23 year old radiator core...a testament for the value of decent cooling system maintenance....
And here is my 23 year old radiator core...a testament for the value of decent cooling system maintenance....
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
Nice work Tom!
I'd like to add a couple things, the Six small bolts on the Passenger side can be reversed with a little Shroud trimming. I removed the Rubber saddles for trimming and found a lot of Crud under the Lower Saddles, also take a close look at your Condenser (Back lite) I found a ton of small Debris lodged in the cooling fins. I found the 3/8" (Good year) coolant hose at Napa.
I'd like to add a couple things, the Six small bolts on the Passenger side can be reversed with a little Shroud trimming. I removed the Rubber saddles for trimming and found a lot of Crud under the Lower Saddles, also take a close look at your Condenser (Back lite) I found a ton of small Debris lodged in the cooling fins. I found the 3/8" (Good year) coolant hose at Napa.
8th Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Just replaced my rad ,1991 L98, same procedure. Its a bit of work,but the upside is the car now runs cooler than it ever has. Cheap insurance as I have experienced the cost of blown head gaskets and head rebuild. Does any one have any tricks to replace the uppermost 7mm side screws? They are between the frame and shroud .
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
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Just replaced my rad ,1991 L98, same procedure. Its a bit of work,but the upside is the car now runs cooler than it ever has. Cheap insurance as I have experienced the cost of blown head gaskets and head rebuild. Does any one have any tricks to replace the uppermost 7mm side screws? They are between the frame and shroud .
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 129
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta area Georgia
radiator removal
Thanks for the info, this fall when the season is over [bracket racing]I want to take this 19 year old radiator [96 c4] out and see if it can be redone. Not having any problems but some previous owner has put stop leak in the system. I have replaced all of the hoses. And want to the rest of it right . What do you think about checking the water pump?? Also is this a good time to look at the opti-spark? Tks again Pr. Putz
I don't know if this has been posted before, (did a search, didn't find it), so I thought I's put up some pics here. Hope they help someone...
First thing, Start draining the coolant.
Reach under the frame from in front of the right tire, bend your had forward and it will practically hit the drain screw. There is a wonderful plastic "chute" that ensures all the coolant drains into one spot. No mess! My car gave up ~1.5 gallons, emptying the radiator, tank and hoses.
While coolant drains, remove air bridge and filter housing.
Next, start removing all the shroud hardware. You'll need a 13mm socket, 10mm socket, a 7mm socket and assorted drivers, extensions etc. Starting on the driver's side, remove the two bolts holding the fan relays to the shroud, right here....
Then remove these bolts and nuts, 10 and 13mm....
Next, looking down between the frame and the shroud, you can see both the air pump filter/inlet and the three, 7mm head bolts that need to come out....
I chose to access those little bolts by removing the air pumps -only two bolts, one 13mm in the front, 10mm towards the rear, and two hose clamps for the air intake and discharge...
Once the pump was out (very easy) I wiggled the air pump's intake out of there too....
With the air pump removed, access to those little screws was easy with a 1/4 drive, 7mm socket, wobble extension and drive, as seen here...
Moving over to the passenger's side, we do the same basic procedure, except that we don't need to move the air pump to access the small screws. Here is a blurry shot of me removing the small, 7mm head screws....
And then the upper, 10 and 13mm hardware here...
The hose...
After that, there are 5, 10mm headed bolts along the top, that secure the fans to the shroud. Pull them out...
Three here on the passenger's side;
And two on the driver's side;
NOW, the shroud is ready to come up and out...however, there is a tab on the passenger's side that interferes w/the AC lines, so the shroud has to come out, lifting the driver's side first. Here is the Tab and AC lines where they'll interfere...
And here is a blurry pic of the shroud being lifted, driver's side first, up and out....
That's the bulk of it. Once you've got the shroud out, it will look something like this:
All that is left is to remove upper and lower radiator hoses (coolant should be done draining by this point), and lift the old radiator up and out of it's rubber cradles. Piece of cake!
First thing, Start draining the coolant.
Reach under the frame from in front of the right tire, bend your had forward and it will practically hit the drain screw. There is a wonderful plastic "chute" that ensures all the coolant drains into one spot. No mess! My car gave up ~1.5 gallons, emptying the radiator, tank and hoses.
While coolant drains, remove air bridge and filter housing.
Next, start removing all the shroud hardware. You'll need a 13mm socket, 10mm socket, a 7mm socket and assorted drivers, extensions etc. Starting on the driver's side, remove the two bolts holding the fan relays to the shroud, right here....
Then remove these bolts and nuts, 10 and 13mm....
Next, looking down between the frame and the shroud, you can see both the air pump filter/inlet and the three, 7mm head bolts that need to come out....
I chose to access those little bolts by removing the air pumps -only two bolts, one 13mm in the front, 10mm towards the rear, and two hose clamps for the air intake and discharge...
Once the pump was out (very easy) I wiggled the air pump's intake out of there too....
With the air pump removed, access to those little screws was easy with a 1/4 drive, 7mm socket, wobble extension and drive, as seen here...
Moving over to the passenger's side, we do the same basic procedure, except that we don't need to move the air pump to access the small screws. Here is a blurry shot of me removing the small, 7mm head screws....
And then the upper, 10 and 13mm hardware here...
The hose...
After that, there are 5, 10mm headed bolts along the top, that secure the fans to the shroud. Pull them out...
Three here on the passenger's side;
And two on the driver's side;
NOW, the shroud is ready to come up and out...however, there is a tab on the passenger's side that interferes w/the AC lines, so the shroud has to come out, lifting the driver's side first. Here is the Tab and AC lines where they'll interfere...
And here is a blurry pic of the shroud being lifted, driver's side first, up and out....
That's the bulk of it. Once you've got the shroud out, it will look something like this:
All that is left is to remove upper and lower radiator hoses (coolant should be done draining by this point), and lift the old radiator up and out of it's rubber cradles. Piece of cake!
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Great pictures. Great explanation. i just pulled my '93 apart. The radiator has a carpet of trash. It clog my industrial vac. I am going to pull the radiator, so i can get a better clean.
do you know anything about flushing the auto trans radiator?
thanks,
Mark
do you know anything about flushing the auto trans radiator?
thanks,
Mark
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Sorry for the slow reply; If you flush your radiator while you have it out, you'll be 'flushing" the outer part of the Auto trans radiator -it's a mini radiator, located inside one of the end tanks. I would flush the inside of the auto trans radiator by shooting brake cleaner through one of the fittings, letting it drain from the other, until it flows clear.
8th Gear
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: clackamas oregon