I've got an 85, stumbles upon acceleration, and surges at a steady speed on the highway. Car also seems to "lay down" after about 3200 rpm, it still runs smooth just not pulling any more. I pulled the codes, got 22 and 43. I checked voltage on tps (code 22) and got 0.0 output voltage, so I replaced the tps. Car revs smooth and no more surging, but it still every once in a while "lays down" under full throttle acceleration. My book says code 43 is "ESC Retard signal for to long". Is this caused by the knock sensor? Can I unplug my knock sensor, and run without it? I appreciate all the ideas and advice, and thanks in advance. :)


[Modified by sinistervette, 3:31 PM 8/18/2002]

 

I’m having the same problem. Code 43, and the car runs like crap. I pull the plugs and all of them are black, totally covered with carbon. IK clean the plugs with a wire brush, and the car still runs terrible. It’s defiantly a seriously rich condition.

I’m on my way out today to get a piece of aluminum to create an EGR block-off plate.
I’m thinking the EGR valve maybe sticking in the open position and creating a rich condition. I have an AKM Cable on the way, so maybe next weekend I can find out what kinda signals the ECM is getting from the O2 sensors.

Id be interested to hear if anyone else has had any similar problems.

Ill keep ya posted on my progress.

:chevy

 

You can't disconnect the knock sensor on an 85 and expect it to run well. At about 194 degrees coolant temp, the ECM does a self test where it advances spark and should pick up knock counts. If the sensor is disconnected, it won't feed the ESC module with knocking conditions and the ESC won't feed the ECM with knocking conditions. A code 43 will be set and you will either go into fail-soft mode or limp-home mode.

Notice that code 43 not only sets under excessive knock conditions but also conditions where knock should be present but isn't. If it ends up being the sensor, the most common cause of sensor failure is being tightened too much. It really is just supposed to be tight enough so it doesn't leak coolant past it.

Make sure the sensor is connected, clear your codes, and go from there. If it ends up being the ESC module, I will cut you a good deal on one that only has about 2 hours of run-time on it. Note that the ESC module is by the blower motor and not the same as the EST module under the distributor cap. Good luck, -Matt-

PS-In your searches, you may find ways of using a resistor to nullify and knock counts. After a good deal of time tuning my own 85, I think this idea is just plain foolish. It is there for a reason. Appreciate it :yesnod:

 

I had the same problem from my '93 except there were large thuds comming from under the hood. I upped the octane with some booster and that got me to napa to get two new knock sensors and then it was running like a peach.

 

I removed the EGR valve yesterday, and I still have the same problem. I purchased a fuel pressure gauge and checked the injectors for leak down. It’s loosing about 1 psi per minute.

I performed a search on past forum posts and found that they shouldn’t lose more than 1 psi in 30 minutes….
I also checked the injectors for correct ohm reading. The driver side injectors are all around 17 ohms, and the passenger side injectors are all between 27 to 37 ohms.

I ordered new Ford SVO 24# injectors yesterday. Hope they cure the problem. Do a search on injectors, and you'll see what im talking about.

I’m pretty sure my code 43 is false. I believe the engine is running so bad that the knock sensor is picking it up, and reporting to the ECM a knock condition. Just my 2 cents.

Forgot to tell you guys. I have a 1990 convertible.
:chevy