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Hope someone can help.
I need to replace the driver side u-joint on the half sift of a 1993 ZR-1.
Does anyone have the brand and part number for a good quality solid
u-joint?
Thanks,
Rob
Hope someone can help.
I need to replace the driver side u-joint on the half sift of a 1993 ZR-1.
Does anyone have the brand and part number for a good quality solid
u-joint?
Thanks,
Rob
I just replaced all 4 of mine with these, and I also had purchased a http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-in-1-Ball-Joint-Service-Auto-Tool-Set-2WD-4WD-Auto-Repair-Remover-Installer-/290834266599?hash=item43b712b9e7&item=290834266599&vxp=mtrlast year (should be able to rent them at parts stores) that I clamped the tool in my vise which made pressing and removing the joints/caps a breeze.
I just did mine last year, used Moog solid ones from Rock Auto.
Here's a good article that shows a lot of detail, just go through the part that covers pulling the half shafts: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562
A couple of tips here, one is put a piece of carpet under where you're working to stop any screws you drop (and you will drop something) from running away.
I also made an adapter tool that let me press the u-joints out using a hydraulic press and worked well for me: http://s162.photobucket.com/user/hcb...tml?sort=3&o=4
It's not terribly hard but you can do it if you're patient and methodical in your approach.
Hope someone can help.
I need to replace the driver side u-joint on the half sift of a 1993 ZR-1.
Does anyone have the brand and part number for a good quality solid
u-joint?
Thanks,
Rob
Don't do it halfass do both sides. all four
Last edited by antfarmer2; Jun 29, 2015 at 08:19 AM.
The Spicer catalog calls for 5-3613x for the driveshaft and 5-3615x for the axle shafts.
Yes, those are the joints with zinc coating on the caps to reduce galvonization with the aluminum halfshafts, and would be a better choice in the long run.
I've read where some use the 1350X's along with some anit-seize.
Would also be a good time to replace wheel bearings if needed. MUCH easier with 1/2 shaft removed.
Yes, those are the joints with zinc coating on the caps to reduce galvonization with the aluminum halfshafts, and would be a better choice in the long run.
I've read where some use the 1350X's along with some anit-seize.
Would also be a good time to replace wheel bearings if needed. MUCH easier with 1/2 shaft removed.
I thought Spicer discontinued the non galvanic? I just replaced my drivers side yesterday with Precisions anti galvanic. Wish I knew I could have gotten Spicers.
I thought Spicer discontinued the non galvanic? I just replaced my drivers side yesterday with Precisions anti galvanic. Wish I knew I could have gotten Spicers.
Spicer only reinstated the "coated" product a couple years ago or so. The 1310's can be purchased quite reasonably BUT the 1350's are VERY expensive - VERY
Spicer only reinstated the "coated" product a couple years ago or so. The 1310's can be purchased quite reasonably BUT the 1350's are VERY expensive - VERY
I'll wager you wouldn't have paid the price.
Yeah if they were more than $30 each I would have passed. I really just wanted to at least get the non galvanic ones.
replaced mine last year on my '93. I bought from two different places. They were all Spicers, but had to wait from the one place a truck parts company (FleetPride) that was a Spicer dealer and the other place was a drive shaft company, I think they are listed here on the forum. I don't know where the bills are, but they were expensive. What I have listed are the following:
I just the drivers side and planned on the passengers side after the holiday. I don't think it will be a big deal. Besides, I read quite a few threads about this and seems like its always the drivers side that needs replaced. I replaced my bearing hub along with the ujoints since I had it all apart.