Yes, that's where I found it and it was in fact defective.
I installed the new thermal switch and the fan now comes on and off as motor warms up and cools off.
Question: Does 215 to 240 degrees seem to you guys as a normal operating temperature range? I am used to the 140 - 180 degree temperature range??
The connection/connector at the electric cooling fan has been 'bastardized" IE: Crimp on spade connectors pushed into receiving connector on fan. I am afraid this connection will prove to be unreliable. Would hate to blow the motor because of it. Where can I get a replacement male connector to put this back into a proper condition.


New issue: Very hard to read the digital display in the dash (Speed and RPM gauges). Seems like the plastic faces have deteriorated. Almost as if they got too hot from sun exposure or something? Are these replaceable? Do I just need to replace the face or do I need to replace the entire gauge/module? Are these parts available? Ebay again?




Thanks again,
Angel

 

You might try some polarizing film,you can find it on ebay. Someone might now exactly the one you need. If theyre too bad youll have to replace the lcd panels, theyre available.

 

I believe when you mention "male" you're speaking of the connector shell BUT you need to be looking for a two cavity "FEMALE" connector and the fan motor is one of the more popular and should be able to be purchased locally inexpensively. GM classifies their connectors according to the "terminal" and NOT the shell.

There's way to many options to mention but Dorman 85101 I believe would work and Dorman is popular with most auto parts stores. Unless there's been a change in the motor installed. Airtex 1P1028 or a Wells 246. There was an earlier but you mentioned "spades" so these should work. GOOGLE for images.

 

[QUOTE=Angel1000;1589967122]Hello again and thank you!
Im at car now. Got dash ripped apart. Was able to start car. But, this happens via BACK DOOR trickery. IE: Jumped out the starter relay wires. Car started and ran.
So, seems the security system is stuck in the activated mode. I found the horns disconnected, at the horns. The horn relay was very hot, which is what I think is drawing my brand new battery down every night!
When I plugged horn wires back in, horn blasts constantly. I unplugged the "very hot" horn relay and the horn stops blasting. However, this also makes normal horn operation fail.


I guess I could stop here and use the car with no horn. IE: Remove horn relay (Relay works correctly, but it is getting constant signal from security center to blast (Green wire)), disconnect starter interrupt relay and jump the starter wires (Purple) so car will start.


I'm not like that though!!! Got to look further! TRY TO FIX!!
QUESTION!! Why is security center sending signal to sound horn and interrupt start function??? And, why can't I turn it off (Door Key signal)???
In search of security center I found a huge mouse nest behind the passenger crash pad. Thought I found the cause of the problem, but after clearing the Air freshener/mouse nest, I see no visible damage caused by my little hitch hiker.
Getting close to security center now... I am following the thick green wire from starter interrupt relay. I assume it gets signal/voltage from security control center. Seems it is located somewhere near the car's main computer which is mounted behind pass crash cushion. Need 3 elbows!!! Good thing I have skinny arms! LOL
Side thoughts: What are the only things that tell security to activate.
1) Tamper switch in doors? Assuming this car has them?
2) Door was opened while alarm in armed mode. But why can't I turn this alarm off?? Back to door key switches, which seems odd that both sides would fail at same time.
3) Does the hatch window have a alarm trigger?
4) What triggers the alarm in the first place? The door light button? A separate push button on the door jamb, triggers the alarm?[/QUOTE. OMG I'm having the same issue and going nuts

 

Another Zombie post.

 

Is this an INSANE thread??? It sure is. Why? Because I am also the proud owner of an 84 with issues from front to back. I guess that’s what makes it fun haha. I worked for GM for several years build Cavaliers, Cimmerons, 1500’s, Suburbans and Tahoes. I would love to meet the team that assembled the TDS for the 84. Seems like sabotage to me wink.

Hot horn relay, yes, sometimes
Horns blow steady and at times pulse… sometimes, now disconnected
I can remove the 10amp fuse in the CID area, car runs…. Car seems to always run. Not usually a run issue, more of horn blasts issues that are quite random.
I know that the “dealer” was into my steering column several times and screwed a few things up. Based upon all of the wonderful feedback I will once again take a deep dive into the column, maybe even get a rebuilt or rebuild it myself…. Maybe.
I am in the process of r and r ing all switches that I can find in the driver door…. Tumbler switch was trashed.
I’m guessing sterling column is my final culprits after correcting other areas.

I have gone front to back on my 84, had the 383 stroker rebuilt…. #8 had bent rod
Redid entire fuel system front to back…. I have no problems with the Crossfire system…. Easier than dual quads wink
Heavy duty cooling fans
Redid AC entirely….. hasn’t lost a lick in over 5 years ….. dealer tried and screwed up a half dozen times failing to perform basic AC repair such as condenser replacement following a trashed compressor.
Drilled and slotted rotors with HD pads…. Much better stopping
Recently installed a RetroSound radio system…. All the whistles and bells.

Problems area of concern….. removing 40 year old tint from back glass…. Difficult though about 70% has been removed
Car still runs VERY HOT during anything over 100 degrees making it a 2-3 season car for Phoenix area.

Benefits….. I get to buy ENDLESS amounts of specialty tools, diagnostics and such. Big BONUS wink.

Yes, we are Brothers in Arms…. march forward and enjoy…. Why not