Ebay has a pack of resistors that will do the trick for $3 and you can get the parts to fix the headlight too
cheers:

 

For the headlight, Cliff wrote a procedure a while back on how to change the gear that is the usual culprit when a headlight fails to open or close properly.. The fan relay is located under the brake booster..

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...placement.html

 

Yep. I screwed that up. Corrected...

 

1) Yes. Used parts are available.
2) On the driver's side wheel well under the master cylinder.
3) There is an "auxiliary" fuse block behind the DIC (see my second picture in post #26).

 

Resistors for the security module? Do you have a schematic for the module?

 

Good thread, I might have the same issues on my 84, as I seem to have a too large residual battery drain, and a disconnected horn...

I'll likely be fighting the same fires after I get my transmission issues dealt with...

Good luck, and keep posting what you find.

Regards,

Ken

 

If the alarm is set and a door is opened, the starter interrupt relay will be constantly energized but the horn will only sound in short pulses. The insulator I mentioned is under the steering wheel, so that has to be removed to fix it.

 

Is this assuming theres not a short in the tds module?

Crazy thought for the day, if the horn contact has shorted and the engine wont crank it could be two different problems not tds at all? Check the neutral start switch?

 

I'd say that's possible. But I think he said his security lamp was flashing.

 

I just don't get why disconnecting the battery wont reset the alarm. On my 84 it sure does I carry a 5/16 just in case.I had a door key made finally though, they took the storqage bin lock out and made 6 and found the one that worked, and only charged me $20

I would think since the horn is staying on,checking the wire under the horn button will tell something one way or another.If its not shorted there then maybe it is a short in the tds module?

Maybe the tds module controls the relay and horn by grounding them ala the other relays in our cars? And if the tds module isn't getting v+ it cant remove any circuits from ground? Like a failsafe.

 

'84 - '87 Headlight Gear Replacement


I shut off my headlights and heard a really loud moaning noise that was coming from the driver's side headlight. Stripped gear (again...). If this happens to you, put the headlights in the up position and disconnect the gray connector. This will disable the motor and leave the headlight in the up position, but at least you will be able to use the headlight.



I do not hear this noise, however, from the thread you provided I will certainly be able to diagnose and repair my no flip problem. While changing the gear does not scare me, I am thinking I will first look for some intermittent electrical issue or relay failure. Being it is the passenger side, I am inclined to check the isolation relay function first.


I will keep you advised.
Thanks so much, to ALL of you!!!
Angel

 

Good Morning to ALL!
I worked on the car again, yesterday. (Busy and informative/productive day)


HEADILGHT 'FLIP' UPDATE: When I arrived, I turned headlights on, both flipped up properly, this time. I unplugged both motors so I could get through my inspection today.
I will readdress intermittent flipping after I pass my vehicle inspection today. (Fingers crossed!).


In my inspection preparation, I had to change the flashers and a couple of bulbs to make all the lights work.


NEW ISSUE! I noticed a clear lensed light next to the side marker lights in the front and back of car (4 in all). All bulbs look good but do not turn on. I thought they might serve some kind of temporary blind spot illumination function, when blinkers are activated?? Did not come on, when hit blinkers. While it really has nothing to do with my vehicle inspection today, it does bother me...
Does any one know their purpose and what activates them? A schematic will help, if anyone has one?


COOLING FAN UPDATE: Located both, the relay and temperature switch. I performed the easiest test I could think of, first. I Disconnected the wire at the temperature switch (In head, behind dipstick) and grounded it out. Fan immediately started running. The new switch will be in this morning!
Thanks to ALL for your help with the fan problem!


TDS UPDATE: As noted, I am in the "disabled the system" status for now, so I could start and move the car. Yesterday I pulled the circuit board out of the TDS Module's plastic cover. The board looked normal, until I flipped it over... A clearly visible blotchy, corroded area in the center of the board. Looks like water puddled and corroded the circuit there or perhaps this is where my little hitchhikers (Rat nest found earlier) were relieving themselves? GROSS!!
I tried to order from NAPA, no good. Will have to search internet for this module. An earlier post suggested I might find it on Ebay ($30- $50)


HORN UPDATE: I investigated the 3 pronged relay, behind the CID center. The earlier post suggested an issue with the yellow wire behind horn button and his findings (Shorted at some clear insulator located deeper behind the steering wheel).
My finding concurs:
The relay: One (+) in, one (+) out to horns and two (-) negatives. One negative runs to the TDS (For alarm active) and one runs to the horn button.
The relay coil (+) must be internally wired to the (+) input prong. So, when the horn button or the TDS are activated, the coil completes it's circuit to ground and sends the 12 volts to the horns.
When I plug in the horn relay, the horn sounds.
Being my TDS module is not even connected, the relay coil must be getting it's ground from the horn button wire. Could be shorted somewhere behind the steering wheel. Doesn't look like that steering wheel is going to come off very easily!!!! YIKES!!
Again, in effort to pass my inspection today (must have a working horn), I removed the horn relay and temporarily wired in a momentary switch (Generic horn button) to power the horns.
I will get back to this issue after inspection.


Well, that's all folks!! For today... Wish me luck with my inspection??
Thanks again!
Angel
"..... To time well spent and things well done!"

 

The front clear lenses are cornering lights.
Turn the ignition On.
Turn the headlight switch Park or Head.
Turn the turn signal lever to left. Left cornering lamp should be on.
It should stay on solid and not blink.

The two rear side clear lenses are for backup lights.
Turn the ignition On.
Shift transmission to Reverse. Both side lamps should be on along
with the two on the sides of the license plate.

 

I'd look real hard for mouse damage. Some of your problems don't fit the normal failure modes. Can you disconnect the TDS module, then plug in your horn relay for normal horn operation? Where are you getting the ground on this black wire for the horn relay that goes to both the TDS module and the horn button?

You need a copy of the FSM (Factory Shop/Service Manual), even if you didn't have this little problem.

 

Hello Again, to ALL,
Clear lens lights: Yes, exactly right! Needed to have headlamps on to activate "cornering" lights and shifter in reverse for the rear clear lights to activate. That was an easy one! LOL
Thanks,
Angel
PS: Passed inspection!!! Yipee!! Now I can get back to and correct the "Jerry Rigging" I did to get passed the inspection...

 

Thanks, Hot Rod!
I removed the entire dash board, CID center, radio, crash pad, etc., etc.. Removed the mouse nest and liquid taped and or electrical taped every wire that had some insulation nibbled away. I am fairly certain I covered all damaged areas. I dug real deep!


This statements interests me: "Some of your problems don't fit the 'normal' failure modes." Can you be more specific? Are you referring to the horn issue?
To be clear, I had removed the TDS module. When I plugged the horn relay in, the horn sounds. I disconnected and I tested the 'ground' prong of the 3 prong relay connector. It tested 100% continuity to ground. There are 2 black wires running to this prong. One goes to the horn button, the other to the TDS module. Being the TDS module is disconnected, I am left to assume the ground is being made through the wire (yellow) connected to the horn button at steering wheel, or somewhere in route to this yellow wire. I have not removed the steering wheel to investigate what lies behind it. Removing the steering wheel seemed like a task to hard, for me?? So, for now, I just left the relay out and jumped the horn (+) wires at the relay connector through a remote horn button that I mounted near the radio.


Appreciate your comments,


Thanks,
Angel
PS: Passed inspection!!! Yipee!! Now I can get back to and correct the "Jerry/Betty Rigging" I did to get passed the inspection...

 

PSS:
Oh, I forgot.....
"You need a copy of the FSM (Factory Shop/Service Manual), even if you didn't have this little problem."
Agreed!! Would you happen to have a link to this manual?

 

Yes, the TDS module circuit board had a corroded area on the underside of the board. I have been searching for a replacement module.. no luck, so far. This however, will not solve my horn issue. I believe horn issue is related to the horn button ground wire (In or in route to the horn button).
Thanks,
Angel

 

Thanks Toni,
Yes, "multiple problems," with common outcome seems to be the case, as it relates to the horn sounding issue anyway.


Problem 1) Corroded TDS module circuit board. IE: Key lock not disarming, battery disconnect not resetting alarm system, ignition key not disarming, starter interrupt relay energized, etc.. and probably ALSO energizing the horn relay (By completing a circuit to ground for the horn relay coil).


Problem 2) However, with TDS disconnected the horn is still energized. This indicates to me a separate problem creating the same outcome. IE: Horn sounding. A short to ground in the horn button circuit which will also make the horn sound when relay is plugged in.


Neutral start switch. I have discounted this as a problem, perhaps in error? I am concluding that, because when TDS module is removed and the engine starts in park and in neutral, the neutral start switch must be working as it should. Is this a sound conclusion?


Thanks,
Angel

 

Yes Ken, I feel same... Great Thread for us 84 "Fire fighters!"
I am by far a "Senior Member," but to your battery drain problem and horn disconnected status. 1st I would reconnect horn to see if it sounds and also test for (+) voltage at the horn (In the event the horns are not functioning). If they sound and/or you find 12 volt at the horn, I would then look toward the horn relay. Easy to find. 4 screws and you pull away the CID center. The relay is right there! Feel it! Is it HOT to the touch? If so, you found your problem. Coil is energized full time. Search this thread (Horn issue) and you will learn plenty! Pull the relay to temporarily alleviate the battery drain and possibly prevent a REAL FIRE from starting while car sits in your garage!
Best!
Angel