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The throttle is where it's supposed to be...at first I could start it then press down and get it going pretty quickly but now it's not having it...I'm checking the tps later...jumped the thermo switch last night and it started on the first try but I couldn't start it at all afterwards...I've narrowed the problem down considerably and really can't wait to actually solve this mystery...everyone keeps saying its pressure or the pump or the filter or the spark or the injectors but I've eliminated all that from contention...it's either the cold start and thermo switch or the tps being off a little...
In the process of checking/replacing injectors...but it runs fine...just doesn't like to start ...which leads to the cold start injector or thermo sensor
Your issue is not the 9th injector then if you have to squirt starting fluid or gas into the plenum to get it started....there are other issues.
I deleted my cold start injector this summer and while it takes 2 cranks to start in the morning, it does start. After 30 min of driving then 1 hour of sitting the car starts first try.
In the process of checking/replacing injectors...but it runs fine...just doesn't like to start ...which leads to the cold start injector or thermo sensor
Here is where I get lost. When people say "it runs fine", what exactly do they mean? I feel it is fine? As compared to what? Did you datalog to see if the ECM was compensating?
Alright so here's what happened...I was convinced that it had to do with the cold start injector so I focused on that...thanks for your input and tips tho because I checked everything out again...I knew nothing about cars or engines until I started workin on this little project but now I understand how most of the car works...so thanks for your help and the information from everyone on this site...but back to it
I unhooked the csi harness and left the injector in...hooked a wire hot to hot then ground to ground on the injector itself...unplugged the wires goin from the harness from the temp switch to the injector completely...using the ground to ground we skipped the switch since it grounds through there when the harness and wires are plugged in...(I know this probably sounds confusing because I'm not well versed but bear with me) so...injector ground to a new ground made the injector click and it started up like it should...the thermo temp switch that tells the injector to spray didn't have a ground or a ground long enough to get her started...this probably sounds terrible and I wish I could draw what we did...but using the ground wire instead of the ground thru the switch, it started...so that makes me believe it was the switch that's faulty...so...new switch comin Friday and I'll know if we diagnosed correctly...
Now...give me ur feedback guys because if you've done something like this before then you may have advice...I'm still open to ideas for why it's not starting and I'll test out what I can...I got the idea for bypassing the switch from another post from the Internet...I don't remember who or where but we rigged up some wires and it seemed to have worked...but like I said...any input is still welcome and I'm definitely open to more ideas...if you can explain why it should work then that's helpful too...
Thanks for your help again and I'll be looking for responses still this week so hit me with what you think and I'll see if we can solve it on my end...I'll update after the switch replacement too, assuming no one has a genius fix before then...(which I'm really not opposed to as long as it's cheaper than the new part I'm planning on getting) lol
I unhooked the csi harness and left the injector in...hooked a wire hot to hot then ground to ground on the injector itself...unplugged the wires goin from the harness from the temp switch to the injector completely...using the ground to ground we skipped the switch since it grounds through there when the harness and wires are plugged in...(I know this probably sounds confusing because I'm not well versed but bear with me) so...injector ground to a new ground made the injector click and it started up like it should...the thermo temp switch that tells the injector to spray didn't have a ground or a ground long enough to get her started...this probably sounds terrible and I wish I could draw what we did...but using the ground wire instead of the ground thru the switch, it started...so that makes me believe it was the switch that's faulty...so...new switch comin Friday and I'll know if we diagnosed correctly...
Now...give me ur feedback guys because if you've done something like this before then you may have advice...I'm still open to ideas for why it's not starting and I'll test out what I can...I got the idea for bypassing the switch from another post from the Internet...I don't remember who or where but we rigged up some wires and it seemed to have worked...but like I said...any input is still welcome and I'm definitely open to more ideas...if you can explain why it should work then that's helpful too...
Thanks for your help again and I'll be looking for responses still this week so hit me with what you think and I'll see if we can solve it on my end...I'll update after the switch replacement too, assuming no one has a genius fix before then...(which I'm really not opposed to as long as it's cheaper than the new part I'm planning on getting) lol
How long was it grounded to start properly? Didn't someone say 8 seconds? IIRC, it has been said that it makes it harder to start without the CSI but not impossible like you say. So maybe you are extending the spray to compensate for the volume because the injector isn't functioning at full capacity or the other injectors are not at full capacity either?
Has it been verified that all 9 injectors are good and correct?