C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Exhaust manifold stud

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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 10:36 PM
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Default Exhaust manifold stud

1987 Corvette C4 Coupe 54000 miles automatic. I ordered a front Y pipe to replace on my Corvette the other day. Of course one of the exhaust studs broke off in the manifold. There is about 1/2 inch of the stud protruding so I soaked it with PB Blaster for two days and tried to remove it using a vise grip...No go. I will try heat from a propane torch tomorrow but don't have much faith. If not I will try to drill it out. My question is do I use a regular steel drill bit or is there a special bit for this job..Like an easy out bit? I am at home and the car is on ramps so I have a little room to work.
Any advice or tips will be greatly appreciated..

Kevin
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugly87
1987 Corvette C4 Coupe 54000 miles automatic. I ordered a front Y pipe to replace on my Corvette the other day. Of course one of the exhaust studs broke off in the manifold. There is about 1/2 inch of the stud protruding so I soaked it with PB Blaster for two days and tried to remove it using a vise grip...No go. I will try heat from a propane torch tomorrow but don't have much faith. If not I will try to drill it out. My question is do I use a regular steel drill bit or is there a special bit for this job..Like an easy out bit? I am at home and the car is on ramps so I have a little room to work.
Any advice or tips will be greatly appreciated..

Kevin
your on the right track with soaking and heat, but I have one tool change. get a stud puller you can get a better grip.

if you are forced into drilling out I had a set at one time of reverse direction (Left Hand Thread) drills, they worked great as you are drilling counter clockwise it seems to release tension in the treads and more than a few times the remaining threads would spin out. if you have to re-tap the tread size is 10-1.50

Last edited by s carter; Jul 16, 2015 at 11:34 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugly87
1987 Corvette C4 Coupe 54000 miles automatic. I ordered a front Y pipe to replace on my Corvette the other day. Of course one of the exhaust studs broke off in the manifold. There is about 1/2 inch of the stud protruding so I soaked it with PB Blaster for two days and tried to remove it using a vise grip...No go. I will try heat from a propane torch tomorrow but don't have much faith. If not I will try to drill it out. My question is do I use a regular steel drill bit or is there a special bit for this job..Like an easy out bit? I am at home and the car is on ramps so I have a little room to work.
Any advice or tips will be greatly appreciated..

Kevin
Weld a nut or two on the stud heat it up and spin it out.
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 12:21 AM
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You need LOTS of heat. I don't think a propane torch will get it hot enough.

The trick to drilling out a stud like this is to use a reverse drill bit that will "unscrew" the stud as you drill.

Personally, I have had luck with drilling a hole through the stud and burning it out with a cutting torch.
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 04:15 AM
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soak it with penetrating oil, heat it, cold shock it with an ice cube; repeat
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 04:36 AM
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After try heat from propane torch, let it cool the part some minutes, then cool it again with mist spray water on it...or even tap water, due its location

To heat up stud only will never work to get it out, cause when you heat the stud gets an expansion an manifold too, so you need to cool down part before to unscrew it

The trick with heat up/cool down is to get a molecular level movement of the part you want to unscrew, in order to break rust and oxidation inside the thread, not to get an "iron butter", also if you try to unscrew stud when parts are still hot, you could strip thread

Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 17, 2015 at 07:36 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 07:52 AM
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I've pulled my share of broken bolts out of old machinery so I'll chime in. I like to use either PB Blaster or a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF. Give the stud a rap with a hammer every so often to try and shock it a little so the penetrant can work through the threads. I use a MAPP gas torch to heat it up and ice to shrink it some. I have welded a nut onto a stud before, but best to get it loose as best you can first.
I've also used a left twist drill bit before, they work but may or may not grab the stud well enough to remove the stud.

It can be done, just take your time and be careful. It's easy to make a mess out of it if you're not careful.
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 09:13 AM
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Oxy acetylene will get it .Propane probably not .
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob31
Oxy acetylene will get it .Propane probably not .
I replaced all the studs in both sides and this is all that worked...You need to get it cherry red hot to remove the stud. If you don't have acetylene, take it to someone that does and it will be a 15 minute fix....WW

Last edited by WW7; Jul 18, 2015 at 02:24 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 01:03 PM
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I recently broke all 6 on my '84...

I used an abrasive wheel on a die grinder to cut them flush with the manifold.

Then a center punch to give me a starting point.
Then a 3/16" HSS drill threw the center of each.
Then a 5/16" HSS drill.
Then a 3/8" tap.

I broke one tap...so I found exactly how much torque it takes for that.

Had to remove the diagonal brace on each sidefor access to one of the studs.

Gave up my torches a year ago when Airgas wanted $20/month for each tank, as I just didn't use them enough.

Making the manifold glow red is nearly a guaranteed winner , but don't start any fires under there. Propane won't get the red glow.

Clean livin' might help with the PB blaster or propane, so I didn't attempt those.

Good luck...

Ken
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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I have butane torch, and i can make red hot
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 03:06 PM
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Default FIXED..and I am more than stoked

The stud finally came out ..after four days on and off. Day one I and 2 I got a 1/8 inch movement. Day 3 was heat and PB Blaster like Holy Water. Little improvement. I gave up but wanted to try one more time before shearing it off. Got into my usual position and on day 4 it loosed a little bit...Encouraged, I continued the PB Blaster and worked it back and forth, gaining a little each time. No heat. Finally the stud gave up and backed out the rest of the way. Thanks for all of the suggestions but especially the encouragement...everyone is right..it WILL come out if you have patience and take your time. Nothing will get me off of this high..
Thanks again...




Kevin
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugly87
The stud finally came out ..after four days on and off. Day one I and 2 I got a 1/8 inch movement. Day 3 was heat and PB Blaster like Holy Water. Little improvement. I gave up but wanted to try one more time before shearing it off. Got into my usual position and on day 4 it loosed a little bit...Encouraged, I continued the PB Blaster and worked it back and forth, gaining a little each time. No heat. Finally the stud gave up and backed out the rest of the way. Thanks for all of the suggestions but especially the encouragement...everyone is right..it WILL come out if you have patience and take your time. Nothing will get me off of this high..
Thanks again...




Kevin
IT wats a ****ing bitch
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 06:09 PM
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Default Finally finished...with video


I am finally finished with my exhaust project on my 1987 Coupe. New front Y pipe minus the pre-cats, hollowed out main Cat and a Magnaflow Cat back exhaust.

Thanks for all of the help along the way.

Kevin
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Weld a nut or two on the stud heat it up and spin it out.
BINGO!

Just did this very thing to a '06 Ford F150 (Pile of cow dung). Broke5 studs removing the nuts (or trying to). Tried heating the head and using a stud puller but that didn't work. Welded nuts on, and it was a done deal.
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