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1987 Corvette C4 Coupe 54000 miles automatic. I ordered a front Y pipe to replace on my Corvette the other day. Of course one of the exhaust studs broke off in the manifold. There is about 1/2 inch of the stud protruding so I soaked it with PB Blaster for two days and tried to remove it using a vise grip...No go. I will try heat from a propane torch tomorrow but don't have much faith. If not I will try to drill it out. My question is do I use a regular steel drill bit or is there a special bit for this job..Like an easy out bit? I am at home and the car is on ramps so I have a little room to work.
Any advice or tips will be greatly appreciated..
1987 Corvette C4 Coupe 54000 miles automatic. I ordered a front Y pipe to replace on my Corvette the other day. Of course one of the exhaust studs broke off in the manifold. There is about 1/2 inch of the stud protruding so I soaked it with PB Blaster for two days and tried to remove it using a vise grip...No go. I will try heat from a propane torch tomorrow but don't have much faith. If not I will try to drill it out. My question is do I use a regular steel drill bit or is there a special bit for this job..Like an easy out bit? I am at home and the car is on ramps so I have a little room to work.
Any advice or tips will be greatly appreciated..
Kevin
your on the right track with soaking and heat, but I have one tool change. get a stud puller you can get a better grip.
if you are forced into drilling out I had a set at one time of reverse direction (Left Hand Thread) drills, they worked great as you are drilling counter clockwise it seems to release tension in the treads and more than a few times the remaining threads would spin out. if you have to re-tap the tread size is 10-1.50
Last edited by s carter; Jul 16, 2015 at 11:34 PM.
1987 Corvette C4 Coupe 54000 miles automatic. I ordered a front Y pipe to replace on my Corvette the other day. Of course one of the exhaust studs broke off in the manifold. There is about 1/2 inch of the stud protruding so I soaked it with PB Blaster for two days and tried to remove it using a vise grip...No go. I will try heat from a propane torch tomorrow but don't have much faith. If not I will try to drill it out. My question is do I use a regular steel drill bit or is there a special bit for this job..Like an easy out bit? I am at home and the car is on ramps so I have a little room to work.
Any advice or tips will be greatly appreciated..
Kevin
Weld a nut or two on the stud heat it up and spin it out.
After try heat from propane torch, let it cool the part some minutes, then cool it again with mist spray water on it...or even tap water, due its location
To heat up stud only will never work to get it out, cause when you heat the stud gets an expansion an manifold too, so you need to cool down part before to unscrew it
The trick with heat up/cool down is to get a molecular level movement of the part you want to unscrew, in order to break rust and oxidation inside the thread, not to get an "iron butter", also if you try to unscrew stud when parts are still hot, you could strip thread
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 17, 2015 at 07:36 AM.
I've pulled my share of broken bolts out of old machinery so I'll chime in. I like to use either PB Blaster or a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF. Give the stud a rap with a hammer every so often to try and shock it a little so the penetrant can work through the threads. I use a MAPP gas torch to heat it up and ice to shrink it some. I have welded a nut onto a stud before, but best to get it loose as best you can first.
I've also used a left twist drill bit before, they work but may or may not grab the stud well enough to remove the stud.
It can be done, just take your time and be careful. It's easy to make a mess out of it if you're not careful.
I replaced all the studs in both sides and this is all that worked...You need to get it cherry red hot to remove the stud. If you don't have acetylene, take it to someone that does and it will be a 15 minute fix....WW
The stud finally came out ..after four days on and off. Day one I and 2 I got a 1/8 inch movement. Day 3 was heat and PB Blaster like Holy Water. Little improvement. I gave up but wanted to try one more time before shearing it off. Got into my usual position and on day 4 it loosed a little bit...Encouraged, I continued the PB Blaster and worked it back and forth, gaining a little each time. No heat. Finally the stud gave up and backed out the rest of the way. Thanks for all of the suggestions but especially the encouragement...everyone is right..it WILL come out if you have patience and take your time. Nothing will get me off of this high..
Thanks again...
The stud finally came out ..after four days on and off. Day one I and 2 I got a 1/8 inch movement. Day 3 was heat and PB Blaster like Holy Water. Little improvement. I gave up but wanted to try one more time before shearing it off. Got into my usual position and on day 4 it loosed a little bit...Encouraged, I continued the PB Blaster and worked it back and forth, gaining a little each time. No heat. Finally the stud gave up and backed out the rest of the way. Thanks for all of the suggestions but especially the encouragement...everyone is right..it WILL come out if you have patience and take your time. Nothing will get me off of this high..
Thanks again...
I am finally finished with my exhaust project on my 1987 Coupe. New front Y pipe minus the pre-cats, hollowed out main Cat and a Magnaflow Cat back exhaust.
Weld a nut or two on the stud heat it up and spin it out.
BINGO!
Just did this very thing to a '06 Ford F150 (Pile of cow dung). Broke5 studs removing the nuts (or trying to). Tried heating the head and using a stud puller but that didn't work. Welded nuts on, and it was a done deal.