I know this has come up before, and i read some of the previous entries, but i am pretty new to the whole cam swap idea... :)

can i just buy the hotcam kit and install it? are the springs that come with it good enough? do i need chip tuning to make it run? will i need to buy anything else?

could someone who has done the swap post a parts list that they used?

thanks!! :cheers:

 

I am interested in installing a new cam as well. How do we determine which cam to install. 87-coupe daily summer driver, auto, 2.59 and too slow.
Jim

 

you will need intake and timing chain gasket sets and dont foget to loosen the oil pan. The pan has a one piece gasket theres a 50/50 chance of ripping the gasket unless the pan is loosend up. The Intake has to come off so you can remove the lifters to swap out the cam. A good chiltons manual should help. P.S. If you need help I'm in Plymouth.


[Modified by ASRoff, 10:29 AM 8/20/2002]

 

I too will be replacing the standard cam with a lt4 cam. BUT- I have the luxury of having the motor out of the car, right now. I have not ordered it, but will be shortly.

 

You will see a lot of debate on the forum over the springs that come with the kit.. technically, they should be fine, but will be pushed to their max.. I would recommend spending the 50 bucks to upgrade the springs. Also, if you have not yet done so, it is definatly a good idea to upgrade to a stronger timing set (the Coyle's double roller timing set is great).

As for programming, you will not get 100% out of your hotcam, without a reprogram. It will be an improvement, and you will be able to drive it without one, but you are going to have a lopey idle. You can adjust the IAC by hand a bit to try to get the idle better, but wont be able to get it perfect without a new chip (IOW: it can wait till later, but eventualy, you definatly want to go for it).

The other thing you want to get is some EOS oil from a GM service place.. you can get it at the chevy dealer.. it is 100x better then the creamy stuff all the books tell you to coat your cam with when installing. It runs $11.50 a bottle. As was mentioned before, you are going to need a timing cover gasket, and intake gasket. I would also recommend replacing your oil pan gasket if you have any oil drips, or if it is real old. You will also need a balancer hub remover. I think thats about it!

-Mark

 

what springs should i get for $50? Where is the best place to buy the cloyes timing set?

I will probably not get the computer reprogrammed until the winter, i want to get it back on the road as soon as possible. You have to send the computer out for programming right?
:cheers:

 

I had to get new valve covers to fit over the 1.6 roller rockers. Most say you can grind down the drip tabs, but it didn't work for me. Also, the hot cam kit doesn't come with lifters. I am told that new lifters are not a necessity, but are a good idea.

 

I think thats about what mine cost ($45.00 maybe??) The coyles double roller set requires you switch water pumps as well.. give Chris (lcvette) with Next Gen Motorsports a call, 910-232-2451, he's a great guy, and can get you a great price. Ask him about the Springs he is putting in my car. Or, you can email him at lcvette1@aol.com. :cheers:

-Mark

 

Robby5

Man I was reading your sig. And the funnny thing is that I was thinking what a lucky guy. A blown motor. Now he get's to build what he wants. My head is so f'd up on motor building. I've got to wait at least 18 months to start my motor projcect.

Make her a beast!


[Modified by Glasman66, 7:01 PM 8/20/2002]

 

I just sent him an email
:cheers:

 

If i run into problems i will keep you in mind!! :cool:

 

OK I recently did this.

You will need TC cover gasket kit and Intake manafold gaskets.
You will need RTV, thread lock, and assembly lube.
You will need a gear puller, a stearing wheel type puller, and leverage type spring compressor. The screw down type compressor will not clear EGR piping above #8 cyl. A telescopic magnet is helpfull getting the little valve locks out. A balancer installer is helpful as well.


You will want to replace your opti and water pump if aged. A mezier electric WP is a nice option. You'll need to plug the hole in the TC cover for the WP driven shaft if you go this route. If you do both, consider going with the newer opti style. (If I recall 94 was the last year of the old style.)

If you do both of these things, electric WP and later opti, you can use the cloyes true roller TC. It will not work with the old style opti. I found out the hard way :yesnod: You will also need to get the later TC cover if you swap opti's. You'll still need to plug the WP driven shaft hole. Take it to a machine shop to get this done. I was charged 12 bucks for this. Also, the cam pin needs to be hammered in half way if using the later opti.

This is also a good time to change wires and plugs if they have miles on them.

The balancer will not want to come off. I used a big hammer and a block of wood from under/behind to knock it off. It took quite a while to free up.

The balancer hub needs the stearing wheel type puller. Put a smaller diameter hex bolt into the crank bolt hole for the center bolt of the puller to push off from.

Lower the oil pan to get the TC cover off (and back on)

Be sure to leave #1 at TDC before removing the TC

You will need to jack the engine up an inch to get the cam out or it will hit the rail. Don't forget to remove the oil pump drive before pulling the cam.

When turning the crank by hand during spring R&R and rocker adjustment be sure to use lots of washers on the crank bolt to prevent the bolt from bottoming out in the hole. If not you will mangle the bolt tip and it will destroy the threads on the way out. Learned this the hard way too :yesnod:

If you have any questions, just ask, happy to share.

 

Although I like to encourage people to take stretch their abilities and undertake projects for the first time, I do have reservations about sending a neophyte in for a cam change on an LT1. And at the same time I would gently caution advice givers to remember that not all engines are the same; I.E., the LT1 opti vs a conventional distributor L98.

What you should do before proceeding any further along is to purchase one or more of the fine service manuals available, Like the Haynes or the very thorough factory manuals. I would strongly reccomend getting someone with experience to help you along - or fire up your digital camera and post pics of the things you don't understand so that everyone reading your posts will learn a little as you move through this project. You can do this, just give yourself a good work area, and don't put any time to completion pressure on yourself. Also, expect that some things will get broken and scewed up, you'll learn plenty from your mistakes.

Use the proper tools, please do not ever hammer a harmonic dampener on or off your engine - many auto parts stores rent specialized automotive tools.

There are lots of potential issues to consider with this kind of a swap. The LT4 valve springs are quite good, unless you really plan on running big rpm's all the time. Be careful with any valvespring substitution: some choices of valve spring and or valve spring & dampner require cylinder head machining to fit properly. Also note that unless you have done something (Hypertech etc) to raise your rev limiter above 5,800 rpm then there will be NO valvespring issues - a low rev limit like 5,800 rpm also strangles the engine and keeps it away from the revs that the LT4 HotCam really likes. PCM/chip tuning will help you get the max out of any major change like a cam. One other "no tuning" method of dealing with a cam change is to simply install larger fuel injectors.


The HotCam belongs in a camshaft hall of fame, it is one of the best all around smallblock cams available today (there are other better, but more narrowly focused cams available). I am running the HotCam, and I still have some tricks and experiements left to do before I am finished with it. It is not just the raw lift, duration etc that make this cam what it is, but the lobe profile itself, when I checked for who was supplying this cam to GM the answer that I got was that it was an in-house design and build, and was NOT sourced from one of the popular aftermarket cam companies (I do not know if that is still true, but I haven't seen otherwise yet). I think that I will see ~400 rear wheel horsepower with my LT4 HotCam stock 350 LT1 shortblock when I get finished. My plan to get the next 36 hp to reach 400 rwhp is simple: get valvesprings that allow better mid 6,000 rpm valve control (less bounce etc), a set of long tube headers, and about a day's worth of pcm experimentation and reprogramming on a chassis dyno, I may also have to install injectors larger than the 30 lb/hr units I currently have in place.

Thomas

 

I recomended a chiltons manual and offerd help.

 

Hi guys,

thanks for all the responses...i was figuring out my costs to do this, and the price keeps going up and up...i think i am going to have to just modify the '95 opti to make it fit my current setup.

If i buy a timing gear for a '95, and shorten the guide pin on the back of the new opti, i think i can make it fit...does anyone see any reason why that wouldn't work :confused: