. Gives me more things to ponder while the engine is still being machined.
anyone experience creating a cam sensor for sequential injection?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Göteborg
Made my own crank trigger and cam sensor for my Autronic sequential system
modified large size HEI Dizzy
Used a 2AV54 hall sensor (can be seen in the pic).
The crank trigger use a GT101 hall sensor.
OEM L98 crank pulley modified with four studs 90 degrees apart.
Been working flawlessly
modified large size HEI Dizzy
Used a 2AV54 hall sensor (can be seen in the pic).
The crank trigger use a GT101 hall sensor.
OEM L98 crank pulley modified with four studs 90 degrees apart.
Been working flawlessly
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 8
From: Sumter South Carolina
Bogor, I'm not following what exactly is happening in your pictures. The first one is the base of the housing I take it? What is the braided ground strap for? Did you do something here?
I see the hall sensor but where is the trigger wheel?
Is the trigger wheel your pulley? Did you weld those pieces of metal at the 90* marks? So did you basically make the 4 point trigger and it acts essentially the same as the 4 point on the vortec stock system? Or is yours better in some way?
I see the hall sensor but where is the trigger wheel?
Is the trigger wheel your pulley? Did you weld those pieces of metal at the 90* marks? So did you basically make the 4 point trigger and it acts essentially the same as the 4 point on the vortec stock system? Or is yours better in some way?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
From: Göteborg
Bogor, I'm not following what exactly is happening in your pictures. The first one is the base of the housing I take it? What is the braided ground strap for? Did you do something here?
I see the hall sensor but where is the trigger wheel?
Is the trigger wheel your pulley? Did you weld those pieces of metal at the 90* marks? So did you basically make the 4 point trigger and it acts essentially the same as the 4 point on the vortec stock system? Or is yours better in some way?
I see the hall sensor but where is the trigger wheel?
Is the trigger wheel your pulley? Did you weld those pieces of metal at the 90* marks? So did you basically make the 4 point trigger and it acts essentially the same as the 4 point on the vortec stock system? Or is yours better in some way?
About the cranktrigger, Im not familiar with the vortech version but the Hall sensor was supplied with the ecu so I used it. Also, the hall sensor is quite tolerant vs interefence alot better than inductive ones like the one in the crank trigger By MSD.
The 4 metal pieces are just bolted to the pulley. Used small allen bolts and loctite. One stud must be positioned around 60 degrees BTDC and position of theother three are therefore given. I ended up att 55 degrees but I can compensae for this in the Autronic software.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,863
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
For the earlier cars, why not start with a belt drive for the camshaft
The trigger wheel can then be bolted to the outside
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/je...2000/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-6100/overview/
The trigger wheel can then be bolted to the outside
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/je...2000/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-6100/overview/
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 8
From: Sumter South Carolina
Lol $1000 and $500. The belt idea would be cool but not at that price. Thanks for the info that that exists though. Very interesting.
I would appreciate a few more pics if you could bogor. I see what you are saying with the window being the trigger.
At this point I'm leaning toward a trigger wheel and spacers from dyi and using a hall sensor on the timing cover. I can fab a mount easily. Then the vortec seems the most promising if I can still use my 8 pin module and just take the trigger from the vortec. Then I guess someone will get a hell of a deal on purchasing my brand new Msd HEI distributor....
I want to keep my Msd but at this point financially might work out better to sell it and buy a GM vortec distributor....
I would appreciate a few more pics if you could bogor. I see what you are saying with the window being the trigger.
At this point I'm leaning toward a trigger wheel and spacers from dyi and using a hall sensor on the timing cover. I can fab a mount easily. Then the vortec seems the most promising if I can still use my 8 pin module and just take the trigger from the vortec. Then I guess someone will get a hell of a deal on purchasing my brand new Msd HEI distributor....
I want to keep my Msd but at this point financially might work out better to sell it and buy a GM vortec distributor....
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Just checked pricing; PICK 'N PULL (down the hill in SLC) sells "electronic distributors" for $34.99.
I always love a trip to P'nP, if you need help getting one for cheap.
I always love a trip to P'nP, if you need help getting one for cheap.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
5 Best & 5 Worst Corvette Daily Drivers
Joe Kucinski
The Headlights of Every Corvette Generation Explained
Joe Kucinski
5 Best & 5 Most Overrated Corvette Track Packages of All Time!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2027 Corvette Engine Explained
Joe Kucinski
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Verdad Gallardo
10 Ugly Corvettes That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 859
Likes: 17
From: Houston TX
https://www.eficonnection.com/eficon...spx?ItemId=623
-OR-
https://www.eficonnection.com/eficon...px?ItemId=1183
will both get you there...
As a few other guys said, you can also do dual sync distributors and not bother with the crank trigger fab work.
-OR-
https://www.eficonnection.com/eficon...px?ItemId=1183
will both get you there...
As a few other guys said, you can also do dual sync distributors and not bother with the crank trigger fab work.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
https://www.eficonnection.com/eficon...spx?ItemId=623
-OR-
https://www.eficonnection.com/eficon...px?ItemId=1183
will both get you there...
As a few other guys said, you can also do dual sync distributors and not bother with the crank trigger fab work.
-OR-
https://www.eficonnection.com/eficon...px?ItemId=1183
will both get you there...
As a few other guys said, you can also do dual sync distributors and not bother with the crank trigger fab work.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 859
Likes: 17
From: Houston TX
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Huh. I see what you're saying. Though, I can't imagine why you'd need a billet unit (other than for bling). I have a Silverado (w/a Vortec) motor, currently has 270,0000 miles on it and I've not yet had a broken down distributor. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 859
Likes: 17
From: Houston TX
Some turd stole it from a Best Buy parking lot within a few months of him driving it...
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Yeah...what is the deal w/those pumps?? I've changed mine 4 or 5 times now, and the fleet trucks I used to manage, we changed them ALL the time. Didn't really matter what brand is used either...the don't last. I don't "get it", why a pump in my 'Vette lasts and lasts...and the same pump (looks the same) doesn't live in the truck. Weird. You're right though...they failure prone.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,040
Likes: 109
I have a 2001 chevy express 3500 that eats caps, currently trying an Accel cap to see if it lasts any longer, I don't have high hopes as it is made in china
So any other ideas to grab a cam signal ?
I have a MSD mechanical 8572 & 6AL = yes I'm keeping the mechanical tach
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,040
Likes: 109
For the earlier cars, why not start with a belt drive for the camshaft
The trigger wheel can then be bolted to the outside
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/je...2000/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-6100/overview/
The trigger wheel can then be bolted to the outside
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/je...2000/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-6100/overview/
= damn such a simple solution, gotta go, headed out to the garage to tinkeron the lathe & mill now.
I just happen to have a RCD Engineering belt setup
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
These are junk in my opinion, seems the contacts inside are routed so close on the #5 that they burn thru and start arcing causing a misfire.
I have a 2001 chevy express 3500 that eats caps, currently trying an Accel cap to see if it lasts any longer, I don't have high hopes as it is made in china
So any other ideas to grab a cam signal ?
I have a MSD mechanical 8572 & 6AL = yes I'm keeping the mechanical tach
I have a 2001 chevy express 3500 that eats caps, currently trying an Accel cap to see if it lasts any longer, I don't have high hopes as it is made in china
So any other ideas to grab a cam signal ?
I have a MSD mechanical 8572 & 6AL = yes I'm keeping the mechanical tach
Pro
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 532
Likes: 104
Buick made a cam sensor for the Gran National that fit into the distributor hole. You might be able to repurpose that. I think you can still find them from some of the GN aftermarket.
Failing that you have some options like this:
https://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/...SABEgLQRfD_BwE
Failing that you have some options like this:
https://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/...SABEgLQRfD_BwE
Pro
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 716
Likes: 135
From: Buchanan, Michigan
These are junk in my opinion, seems the contacts inside are routed so close on the #5 that they burn thru and start arcing causing a misfire.
I have a 2001 chevy express 3500 that eats caps, currently trying an Accel cap to see if it lasts any longer, I don't have high hopes as it is made in china
So any other ideas to grab a cam signal ?
I have a MSD mechanical 8572 & 6AL = yes I'm keeping the mechanical tach
I have a 2001 chevy express 3500 that eats caps, currently trying an Accel cap to see if it lasts any longer, I don't have high hopes as it is made in china
So any other ideas to grab a cam signal ?
I have a MSD mechanical 8572 & 6AL = yes I'm keeping the mechanical tach
Pro
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 716
Likes: 135
From: Buchanan, Michigan
holley 556-114 is made for the jesel, comp, rcd, jones racing belt drives. simply replace one of the cam gear bolts with the one supplied in the kit. it is a flying magnet setup (same as msd 4x crank triggers, just a better effect sensor. the signal is less suceptable to noise. if you plan on keeping your current msd dizzy rotor phasing would be mandatory, and a pain in the rear. In all seriousness if you are going efi the holley #565-200 dual sync distributor or msd #2375 are pretty good. no rotor phasing issues. plug and play with holley efi, easily used with megasquirt or other efi systems. you can also modify your tach drive unit to use a hall effect sensor triggered off a magnet embedded in the shaft similar to the msd 85141 cam sync/oil pump drive unit. keeping the tach drive complicates things.