Well guys,

I finally got some time today to try some things to solve the drop in RPM mystery.

Today I pulled the wires off and pulled all the plugs. The plugs were an off white color. The gaps were a tad on the big side. Most measured .045. I moved them back down to .035 and cleaned them all with a brush. They seemed to have a tad bit of ash on them. It almost looked like it was running poorly at one time, then started running good and the deposits were still on there. They flaked right off really easy.

I pulled the distributer all the way out. Checked for play and everything felt good. I decided while I was in there to change the internals. I bought a new pickup and module. They were both installed.

I ohmed all the wires and they all came out good. I realize this could still be a problem. I just don't want to spend 85 to find out, at least not till I do some other things. I can borrow a set to change out to see for sure.

I did ohm the module and from tab to tab on the two there was a significant difference between numbers. Not sure what they should be. Just comparing.

I installed everything back on the car with my old cap and rotor( not the new Hypertech). I started the car and set it back in time.

Took the car out onto the road and the throttle response seemed snappier. But the data will tell the tale I thought. The butt-meter can often be misleading, especially when driving 3 different cars.

I took it to the stretch of road that I test on. Hammered through the 1/4 loggin the run. Pulled over and checked the data. Sure enough the freakin drops were still there. I then thought, maybe running the program in DOS would help, if it was a program glitch. I ran again in DOS and still they appeared.

I should also mention that I taped the fuel guage to the window too. Nothing looked out of wack with that. Anytime I hit the gas it jumps in pressure and hold steady till I leave off. It vibrates back and forth a little with the pulsing of the injectors, but stays withing 2 psi of the mean.

Judging at the strip were I do hit 110 MPH from my log, I am only missing it by about 30 feet. Since I leave off right away after going through the traps. I know I can't extend the track, just saying it's right there.

Guess the next item is to borrow some wires. See if that makes a difference.

Boy this sure would be a lot easier if some other people in the area had cars like ours. I don't want to rule out the distributer itself, yet do not want to spend 250 bucks for one and not have it make a difference.

Something is definately amiss.

Any other ideas?

I appreciate you guys trying to help out.

I should also mention that I plan on detaching the TC lockup in the tranny tonight when I return to see if it has an effect. That was a suggestion of Beach. I will most definately try that too.

Later guys.


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 5:12 PM 8/20/2002]


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 5:14 PM 8/20/2002]

 

Well it's nice to see that you are still at it. Keep plugging away.

Disconnect the lockup wire at the Tranny(pass side). It will not hurt anything while performing WOT runs. Just don't leave it in 4th gear while cruising.

Are you running a catalyic convertor ?

Vic

 

Vic,

It seems that all I do is work on this thing. John Forces car doesn't get this much attention :lol: Guess the difference is they know what they are doing :lol:

Yep will try that TC thing tonight if time allows.

No Converters on the car. Just 2.5 inch duels with a cross over pipe into flow masters.

I checked the voltage coming to the distributer too. It was the same as the battery voltage.

I am going to try to reach Craig Moate to see if he has ever heard of the software doing this. I know its the car though. In some spots it will stay at one RPM for .3 tenths then jump up as normal again. Like there are flat spots it has a hard time pulling through. But its always a different spot.

:cheers: