I will admit as I did in another post that I never thought that aero aids were worth the effort or would make a difference at autox speeds. But since every car in my class, SSM, runs aero and after talking to a fellow Vette owner and researching the issue, I went ahead and installed a wing. I was torn between a lean spoiler and a wing. I actually got both and decided at install time which to install. I will give some feedback after next weekend.

 

Post up some picks . I have a COT wing sitting here .

 

I was concerned about the wing mounting and being able to get in the fuel fill and raising the fuel door. I was also had to make sure to stay within our rules which states no higher than 6" above roof line and 0" past rear most fascia of the car and no wider than the body of the car. Everything just fit great.

 

Any bracing underneath ?I have been told by two people a wing will make it push with no splitter . They were using COT wings ,with higher speeds . I might try mine on the last event . we do 40 -130 mph laps though .

 

I have this car dedicated to AUTOX but do occasional use it for track hpde's. I will find out how it works for AUTOX. My car seemed light at the rear when I ran it at the NCM Motorsports Park. My front sits only 2 1/4" from the ground already when could help with the downforce. I will post the impact the wing has made as regard to AUTOX this weekend.

 

I like it. It looks to be a good match for your car. Looks more functional, not bling. I dont want to ask how the rear visibility is though.

Thx for sharing.

 

funny you say that. I haven't even sit in the car and looked back yet. I will do that and report back

 

Ok, got in the car and looked back in the rear view mirror. I can see fine. What I see in the mirror and the vertical mounts that the wing mounts to.

 

Ok, here is the feedback so far on the wing; I will say it did help a little. It did seem to help plant the rear in slaloms and sweeping corners. I will say this was probably worth it, since I only had around $250 in the wing and I installed it myself. My biggest gain was from shock and ride height adjustment. So, as I had read from some pros; "aero should not be the substitute for good suspension tuning." Would I still install the wing from the experinece so far? Yes.

Here is a quick vid-

 

What type of wing is that? Where did you buy it? Ive been playing with the idea for a while since Daytona, things get a bit light at 160 mph... Everything I see is either non functional, looks like crap, or $1000 for just the wing.

 

the engine is revving quite nicely !
the only way to tell one way or the other would be to do back to back runs, with and without the wing and see what is the time difference ?

 

I got this one from Megan Racing. It mounts just behind the hatch glass and the composite is more durable there than on the rear fascia that is just polycarbonate. If you are going to get into speeds over 100mph, I would probably reinforce it with a plate under neath. This wing is a 2 piece and adjustable. It is a universal mount. It is very difficult to find anything for C4's for aero.

 

Fortunately for me, I ran an event without the wing and then installed the wing and did not touch my suspension settings and ran the same tire pressure. And as I had been told by others, there was. It's not a drastic change but a slight noticeable one with the feeling that the rear of the car was more stable. And do keep in mind my corner speeds are 25-50mph. And Max speed is usually just @65. I am interested in putting it to the test on track before year end just to see what a difference there is at higher speeds.

 

Aren't all autox courses different? They are in the regions that I've participated in.

 

Hey i liked that video. That 406 is running with some pretty good throttle response even over the internet. I was really surprised to see that car is an auto trans car. I noticed that after watching the video and it had me fooled. U must have a great power curve - flat as can be. And ya know thats what ive heard and seen of square motors so im guessing your 406" is a 4" bore block with a 4" stroke crank. Low end torque is so high they make full hp down low and stays flat for most the rpm range. Ive seen a dyno sheet of a square BBC that made over 500hp for like a 3000rpm range.

But square motors are expensive to build in fact its much cheaper to build a 336" or 385" square motor than the 406"/408".

Thx for sharing.

BTW for those interested Late Model Performance racing has some low prices (

for some reason my link to Late Model Performance doesnt post????

 

A SBC "406" is typically a sb 400, bored .030" over. That ends up being a 4.155" bore and a (stock 400) 3.75" stoke.

IDK why a "square" motor should be any more expensive to build than an over square motor. A "Square" motor has a pretty bad bore/stroke ratio. Not enough valve for the displacement.

 

Normally a 4.030" bore x 4" stroke would be a 408" motor. But u can use 0.20" over bore for 4.020" bore x 4" stroke for a 406" motor. And the bore stroke ratio would pretty much be = 1. Dont know of anything wrong with that myself and if there is please elaborate.

As far as valve sizes go we rarely see any over 2.05" though they are available larger. I just dont read any hobbyist using 2.08 and larger vlv sizes and the vlvs get a lot heavier the larger they are - requiring some massive vlv spring strength. From my limited experience and information the big inch small blocks are all hurting in vlv size and their VE suffers. Where the sweet spot for vlv size and cubic inches is i admit i donno but no one else is blabing 'bout it.

What im saying as far as cost goes for a 4" stroke is the reduced base circle cam to begin with. I dont see how u will find pistons and they will almost have to be custom. Next is u hopefully start with a 2 pc rms block otherwise u need an 1pc to 2pc rms adapter. Got your block clearanced for 4" stroke? Bet your close to edge of pan rail. Oh i forgot Unless u have a 350" main journal 4" crank other wise u have to turn down the main journals on the crank - though i see ohio crank has the 350" journal 4" crank u need to get that right before spending money. Yes, i believe a 4" stroke square motor would be more expensive.

 

Yes every autox event has a different course. But, if you run on the same surface each time, you can see how the car handles around corners and through slaloms.

I had the 406 SBC built by Ohio Crankshaft. Not sure about square motors. I did my research and had the AFR Heads and cam and intake already, just had to get the bottom end completed by Ohio Crankshaft. And then I had it tuned by Tracy Scott at Cincy Speed, he is a wizard at tuning. The auto is a Stage 4 4l60 with Full Manual Valve Body built by RPM Transmissions. The next upgrade will be a better torque converter. I have been researching these occasionally and probably work on it this winter.

 

Sorry if i got off topic here but the motor sounds great and i got curious. Thx for the info. Ive heard of RPM trans but they are too far away for me as i try to work with the local shops if possible. But how does the manual vlv body help? Converts it to manual shift only?

 

With the automatic with a full manual valve body, you get the best of both worlds, the torque multiplication and no clutch pedal to worry about and no missed shifts that can happen with a manual and the crisp sharp shifts you get with the manual. The gear go put my Trans in no matter what rpm, it shifts!