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1990 C4 Corvette. when you tun the key it runs and fires up fine, bu will then die about a second of two later. I have found that I have been able to keep the engine running when I can keep the rpms up around 2000. Anything lower than that, it dies. Could this be a weak fuel pump? In my experience, a fuel pump will either work or not. thoughts?
The fuel pump is powered by an electric motor and is independent of engine RPM. It either runs or doesn't. If it's weak the engine will idle but not rev to higher RPMs.
The fuel pump is powered by an electric motor and is independent of engine RPM. It either runs or doesn't. If it's weak the engine will idle but not rev to higher RPMs.
What I have is the opposite, the engine will not idle but will run at higher rpms. No codes or check engine lights either.
Make sure you have oil pressure. If the oil pressure isn't high enough the engine won't run.
Internet myth. Totally UNTRUE.
The fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. There is an oil pressure switch that will power the fuel pump if it sees more than 4 PSI. It is a BACKUP for the fuel pump relay and will NOT "save the engine" by shutting off the fuel pump if the oil pressure is low. You can disconnect the oil pressure switch (I have done this as an experiment to prove the point) and the engine will continue to run just fine.
Disassemble the Throttle Body. Remove the IAC housing also. Clean the IAC pintle, housing and the entire TB including the passages. Reinstall with NEW gaskets and reset the IAC using the IAC counts.
The fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. There is an oil pressure switch that will power the fuel pump if it sees more than 4 PSI. It is a BACKUP for the fuel pump relay and will NOT "save the engine" by shutting off the fuel pump if the oil pressure is low. You can disconnect the oil pressure switch (I have done this as an experiment to prove the point) and the engine will continue to run just fine.
I thought this was wrong, made no sense when he posted it.
Originally Posted by aklim
Disassemble the Throttle Body. Remove the IAC housing also. Clean the IAC pintle, housing and the entire TB including the passages. Reinstall with NEW gaskets and reset the IAC using the IAC counts.
Throttle body has been cleaned in the last six months, but I will try this out after I check fuel pressure to be sure. Just curious, do you have any more detail on resetting the IAC using the counts? Not sure about that one.
I get the engine to closed loop operating temp. Shut everything but the engine off and run the scanner and check IAC counts. Assuming the timing is right and there are no leaks, the IAC count should be about 20. If it is more, the IAC is opening up for more air so you need to turn the throttle body adjusting screw in to open the blades to allow more air and less need for the metered "air leak". Rev the motor and see where it settles. If it is less than 20, the engine needs less air so screw out the TB adjusting screw, rev and recheck. After it gets to target, you adjust the TPS based off the scanner reading.
I thought this was wrong, made no sense when he posted it.
Throttle body has been cleaned in the last six months, but I will try this out after I check fuel pressure to be sure. Just curious, do you have any more detail on resetting the IAC using the counts? Not sure about that one.
Yes used all new stuff.
Update, tried to pull codes and there is no response from the check engine light, not even when you turn the key to run with out the car in diagnostic mode. Might just have a bad computer