C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Motor is stuck??

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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 11:36 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
clean old oil plus one or two gallons diesel should do it; this from an old mechanic who knew ...and used...every trick in the book.
It is now stupid question time diesel oil, correct?
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 12:12 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
It is now stupid question time diesel oil, correct?
I work on a ship that carries 1.2 million gallons of diesel, and trust me, given time, it'll soak in and free up almost anything (whether you want it to or not, lol); and it's cheap; of course if the budget allowed, there are ton's of penetrating oils available by the gallon, but that would represent a major cost.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 01:10 AM
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
I work on a ship that carries 1.2 million gallons of diesel, and trust me, given time, it'll soak in and free up almost anything (whether you want it to or not, lol); and it's cheap; of course if the budget allowed, there are ton's of penetrating oils available by the gallon, but that would represent a major cost.
It moves😂😎😁
Thank you

Last edited by jseremba; Sep 5, 2015 at 08:16 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 08:57 AM
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Be careful, the crank bolt on a sbc is kinda wimpy. I removed the 3 pulley bolts & replaced them with exhaust studs. Now I can put on a sbc turning tool easy.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:18 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Be careful, the crank bolt on a sbc is kinda wimpy. I removed the 3 pulley bolts & replaced them with exhaust studs. Now I can put on a sbc turning tool easy.
I was actually going to do that. But it moved this morning. So I will let it sit in it's new position for a few hours and more it a little. But, good idea.
Thank you
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:18 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
It moves😂😎😁
Thank you
Good to hear but wish you would have let it soak longer.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Good to hear but wish you would have let it soak longer.
Well it will be soaking for a few more hours. I will add more oil and more it again. Thank you for the suggestion.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:53 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
Well it will be soaking for a few more hours. I will add more oil and more it again. Thank you for the suggestion.
I was talking at least a week before trying to move it. Damage is done if any.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
I was talking at least a week before trying to move it. Damage is done if any.
This is a week. Last week I put some ok in the cylinders. A couple of days I added more. Thank you for your concern.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 10:50 AM
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I would now fill it up with the diesel or atf and crank it over to wash it out a few times before actually loading up with oil to run it.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by pologreen1
I would now fill it up with the diesel or atf and crank it over to wash it out a few times before actually loading up with oil to run it.
to the OP, remba, I am very sorry for your luck, I'm also thankful you're walking through this process on the forum. this is absolutely fascinating I'm sure you're not the only guy who's bought a car that it seized up and then tried to figure out ways to get a moving again personally I would have no clue. thanks for the link on that YouTube channel with all the engines, turns out that's in my home province in Canada, Alberta. We are good rednecks up here and while we're not pumping oil, like now, I guess we trying get a old engines going!

but seriously, to a question, if you were to let this engine sit long enough, is it conceivable that you would one day be able to drive this engine with minimal damage? Or is the goal right now just to unseize the engine and then you will have to do a tear down and rebuild it?

like are you trying to save the cylinder walls? Or are you trying to save the entire engine so you can one day drive it without opening it up? I find this fascinating.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
to the OP, remba, I am very sorry for your luck, I'm also thankful you're walking through this process on the forum. this is absolutely fascinating I'm sure you're not the only guy who's bought a car that it seized up and then tried to figure out ways to get a moving again personally I would have no clue. thanks for the link on that YouTube channel with all the engines, turns out that's in my home province in Canada, Alberta. We are good rednecks up here and while we're not pumping oil, like now, I guess we trying get a old engines going!

but seriously, to a question, if you were to let this engine sit long enough, is it conceivable that you would one day be able to drive this engine with minimal damage? Or is the goal right now just to unseize the engine and then you will have to do a tear down and rebuild it?

like are you trying to save the cylinder walls? Or are you trying to save the entire engine so you can one day drive it without opening it up? I find this fascinating.
I am trying to make it drive able. But, I am trying not to damage the walls and rings. So it will get more oil and then later another push. I am going to try and use the damper pulley bolts, rather than the crank bolt
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 12:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
Yes I do believe it is in neutral. Good thought. I was thinking of giving it another 2 days before I panic. The ramps idea is a good one. Maybe worth a try. A friend of mine suggested me on the damper pulley and him on the fly wheel.
Put waiting is not a bad idea. I just today filled the cylinders with marvel. Up to know I just sprayed some into the spark plug holes.

Thank you
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 01:01 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2

now that the motor is freeing up, your next step before trying any further to putting any Fire to cylinders should be a good Fuel system cleaning. if the car sat long enough to make the Motor Sticky then the Gas tank must be looked at.

Unlike most cars getting into the tanks on the C4 is not a great ordeal, so take a few minuets and give the tank a look and a clean out, remove the gas filter blow some low pressure air thru the lines make sure the pump operates put in a gallon or two of gas. pump fresh gas to filter, put in a fresh filter remove the fuel line from injector rail get fresh gas there. put fuel line back on, if you have a old R12 a/c low pressure hose put it on the Fuel pressure test port pump out the old stuff.


Odds are the engine will require further take down in the future, depending weather if it was fuel/oil goo the that was locking up the Motor or rust/corrosion that would scar the Cylinder walls. that will be a whole other discussion depending on a compression test and the amount of blow by.

Good Luck

Last edited by s carter; Sep 5, 2015 at 01:10 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by s carter
now that the motor is freeing up, your next step before trying any further to putting any Fire to cylinders should be a good Fuel system cleaning. if the car sat long enough to make the Motor Sticky then the Gas tank must be looked at.

Unlike most cars getting into the tanks on the C4 is not a great ordeal, so take a few minuets and give the tank a look and a clean out, remove the gas filter blow some low pressure air thru the lines make sure the pump operates put in a gallon or two of gas. pump fresh gas to filter, put in a fresh filter remove the fuel line from injector rail get fresh gas there. put fuel line back on, if you have a old R12 a/c low pressure hose put it on the Fuel pressure test port pump out the old stuff.


Odds are the engine will require further take down in the future, depending weather if it was fuel/oil goo the that was locking up the Motor or rust/corrosion that would scar the Cylinder walls. that will be a whole other discussion depending on a compression test and the amount of blow by.

Good Luck
Thank you. Right now I am making a crank shaft turning tool. And adding oil to the cylinders.
I already bought the new filter and do plan to remove the old gas. So probably next weekend for the start up
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 02:03 PM
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 02:14 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by s carter
now that the motor is freeing up, your next step before trying any further to putting any Fire to cylinders should be a good Fuel system cleaning. if the car sat long enough to make the Motor Sticky then the Gas tank must be looked at.

Unlike most cars getting into the tanks on the C4 is not a great ordeal, so take a few minuets and give the tank a look and a clean out, remove the gas filter blow some low pressure air thru the lines make sure the pump operates put in a gallon or two of gas. pump fresh gas to filter, put in a fresh filter remove the fuel line from injector rail get fresh gas there. put fuel line back on, if you have a old R12 a/c low pressure hose put it on the Fuel pressure test port pump out the old stuff.


Odds are the engine will require further take down in the future, depending weather if it was fuel/oil goo the that was locking up the Motor or rust/corrosion that would scar the Cylinder walls. that will be a whole other discussion depending on a compression test and the amount of blow by.

Good Luck
I think I mentioned at the beginning of this thread. I did this to my 427/390 motor. And it did not require more work. So I am going under the assumption that if I take my time I can put off engine work until I want to upgrade
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 04:33 PM
  #39  
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if it's any consolation, it's amazing how much abuse / neglect Detroit iron can take and still be persuaded to run, sometimes for years.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
if it's any consolation, it's amazing how much abuse / neglect Detroit iron can take and still be persuaded to run, sometimes for years.
It is amazing to me. People love these cars and leave them to rot. I am still thinking of putting transmission fluid in the crank case. It is a very good idea
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