C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Motor is stuck??

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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 12:39 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
if it's any consolation, it's amazing how much abuse / neglect Detroit iron can take and still be persuaded to run, sometimes for years.
So I thought the engine moved but what I think was the center bolt was tightening. I took off the damper pulley and I made a plate and put a nut and bolt through the plate. The motor is not turning.
Last night I filled
it with ATF . Today I loosened the valves.
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 01:43 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
So I thought the engine moved but what I think was the center bolt was tightening. I took off the damper pulley and I made a plate and put a nut and bolt through the plate. The motor is not turning.
Last night I filled
it with ATF . Today I loosened the valves.
did you ever see the motor operating before you bought it? like is it possible it seized and blew a piston by the po?

dropping the oil pan and looking up might show something?
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 02:04 PM
  #43  
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With the valves loose & the spark plugs removed, take a gutted compression tester & blow air into each cylinder. It should build air psi up with no leaks.
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
did you ever see the motor operating before you bought it? like is it possible it seized and blew a piston by the po?

dropping the oil pan and looking up might show something?
I have not seen the engine run.
The valve cover gaskets on the l98 are they rubber or cork, from the factory.
The only way I am dropping the oil pan is with the motor on a stand. At that point what is wrong with it is a mute point.
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 02:11 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
With the valves loose & the spark plugs removed, take a gutted compression tester & blow air into each cylinder. It should build air psi up with no leaks.
I was thinking of doing that. Just have to fulfill my obligations. So probably next weekend I will do just that.
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 06:13 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by jseremba
So I thought the engine moved but what I think was the center bolt was tightening.
try rocking it back and forth while in gear; better yet, get a couple of buddies to help you...and yes, you provide the beer
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Old Sep 6, 2015 | 06:15 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by mtwoolford
try rocking it back and forth while in gear; better yet, get a couple of buddies to help you...and yes, you provide the beer

Yeah that sounds like the most logical move. But first I am going to put some grade 8 studs in the harmonic balancer holes and try to use a wrench to turn the engine.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 06:17 PM
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I have been able to remove the starter and use a tire tool prying against the flywheel teeth to turn the engine when harmonic balancer wouldn't do it.

Ken
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by farmer661
I have been able to remove the starter and use a tire tool prying against the flywheel teeth to turn the engine when harmonic balancer wouldn't do it.

Ken
Ken
Great suggestion. What I did wad make a tool to turn the crank shaft and I used the studs. So far I have a half or more rotation. So I am working the crank back and forth at the sticking point.
Thank you all.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 11:09 PM
  #50  
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There you go. You got her runnin' scared now.

The next step, once you get it to make full revolutions is to get the rust cleaned out of they cylinders (and pan). Then get it started. At first, it will have terrible compression. As it runs compression and oil consumption will likely improve.

Last edited by Tom400CFI; Sep 8, 2015 at 12:27 PM.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 11:53 PM
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Since the engine is stuck that bad, you'll have stuck rings in the pistons, too. When you get it running, keep it short. Getting the rings up to normal temperature will probably break them, since they won't be able to expand as they would if they weren't stuck. Give each cylinder another dose of your favorite rust buster to give the rings a chance to work loose.

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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
There you go. You got her runnin' scared now.

The next step, once you get it to make full revolutions is to get the runs cleaned out of they cylinders (and pan). Then get it started. At first, it will have terrible compression. As it runs compression and oil consumption will likely improve.
Slow and steady. I really hope I can put off engine work for a little while.
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Old Sep 8, 2015 | 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
Since the engine is stuck that bad, you'll have stuck rings in the pistons, too. When you get it running, keep it short. Getting the rings up to normal temperature will probably break them, since they won't be able to expand as they would if they weren't stuck. Give each cylinder another dose of your favorite rust buster to give the rings a chance to work loose.

Thank you, that is useful information. I would hate to have gone all the way and screw up the last step
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