Just my experience on this.

When i got my 84 the previous owner gave me some new MSD wires,

I installed them along with #2 platinum plugs.

Not too long after i got bad misfires, and rough running, rough idle, electrical current was shorting to the block on the outside of the wires.

Turns out the MSD wires i had were smooth inside the boot, and the #2 plugs were also smooth on the porcelin. So the wires back off the plug. Don't know if those wires were the correct part number though.

Ok, so i order ac delco wires and the copper stock plugs, which have ridges on the inside of the boots and on the procelin of the plugs. This helped hold the wires to the plugs. None came loose.

Car runs great for almost a year.

Then same issues.

The ac delco cap and rotor i bought at the time are GARBAGE, the rotor plate had a hole in it after about 7 months.

So replaced the cap and rotor with napa brand, problems went away though at that time the wires were toast because when i repainted the valve covers i never installed the original wire loom separators and they were touching the headers and shorting out and became brittle.

So once again 7 months later, same problems, i replaced the cap and rotor with bwd brand from oreilly's.

Changed the wires to the autozone brand stock size 25 bucks as compared to the ac delco at 55 bucks, routed them per the FSM, and installed the stock wire loom separators.

Have not had issues since.

Though i can see changing the cap and rotor every year for safe measure.

In essence just make sure you have the correct type/length wires, plugs for the 84.

Use the stock wire looms.

Route the wires correctly per the fsm.

Gap your plugs correctly !! ( 5 of the 8 i bought were all the wrong gap)

DO NOT use anti seize compound on the plug threads, this will just give you more misfires.

Change your cap and rotor annually ( cheap insurance against failure ).

If you have not done so it does not hurt to get a new ignition pick up coil ( or rebuilt distributor ) mine had hair line cracks in the wheel that could not be noticed until you took it out, and ignition module as well as new ignition coil and correctly time your engine, mine is at 6 degrees BTD. It was a PITA, but i'm glad i did it when i first got my 84 thanks to all the members here who always have great advice for their help!

 

GQ

routing & length can be to the user's discretion. Providing they are safe. I have tried MANY MANY wires. Traditional carbon cores SUCK.
The super conductors have been. By-far the BEST. Until my current $Magnecore$ expensive. But extremely good wires. You have it Easy with a Large base Dist.. You must, not have experienced the Opti system. I guarantee. You will not change that cap/rotor & wires. Every year..

 

You are right, the opti system is terrifying to say the least. I have the old wide base simple distributor.

When i bought this car everyone asked why i wanted such an older model, and the opti is just one of many reasons i wanted something simpler and easier less expensive to work on since i turn my own wrenches.

Great info on the wires thank you!

 

sorry about all your hassles, but it seems you gotten a handle on most of them; however not using anti seize on the plug threads? this could cause a problem down the line if the steel plug threads gall to the aluminum heads; misfire from anti seize ? well if some how it migrated onto the plug porcelain, it could be an issue.

 

my 2-cents, FWIW, on the use of anti-seize on spark plug threads and aluminum heads. I have read pros and cons on the subject. it appears the number one issue with using anti-seize, is over-torqueing the plugs. it seems that someone could over-torque the plugs by as much as 20%. I guess the solution would be decreasing the specified torque value, but the exact amount could be somewhat subjective. another issue is electrical conductivity, although there are specialized anti-seize compounds that are electrically conductive. another issue, is long term, thermal cycling. non-coated plugs left in for long periods of time with high mileage may seize, but I have read on other forums about folks not having issues. i'm guessing it's a crap shoot. some plug manufacturers, NGK to be specific, specifies NOT to use anti-seize. seems the plugs have a unique factory plating on the thread area ("trivalent"). I have also read that plugs with nickel plated not needing anti-seize. right now, i'm going to re-evaluate my use of anti-seize on plugs in aluminum heads. there is less of an issue with with iron heads. it does appear that some plug manufacturers and some car manufacturers not recommending anti-seize. googling the subject seems to give wealth of information, but one can get into information over-load on the subject.

 

Joe C in his post clarified it, i did not know about this but suffered for my ignorance.

There's a you tube video on the subject and as Joe C pointed out some plug makers say not to use anti seize.

A mechanic i know told me to use the least amount of anti seize possible.

I agree that plugs left in too long or over torqued can get frozen into the head which is why i used it. But learned quickly that perhaps too much can lead to misfires on iron heads.

On aluminum heads I'd still use it though, no sense galling threads on a head.

I'm also always up for installing better quality or better performing parts, my experience naturally led me down the road to just keeping things stock and installing them per the fsm to get the best performance for my stock application.

 

Dizz, Sounds like you received. The Malaysia version MSD's
I have owned 3 set's superconductor universal. Crimp your own. On my 383 build. I took my previous low mileage MSD's from my TA Cut the ends off and installed the Opti fittings. Never witnessed a TESLA light show. Only improvement over Stock Carbon core wires.