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On your car the TPS is non adjustable, and the minimum is set by the ecm when you turn on the key...With key on the TPS should read around .6 volts, and while moving the lever to WOT the voltage should move up smoothly without any voltage drops up to around 4.5-4.6..If you meter isn't showing any movement , and the wires are hooked up right , then it's time to replace your TPS......WW
On your car the TPS is non adjustable, and the minimum is set by the ecm when you turn on the key...With key on the TPS should read around .6 volts, and while moving the lever to WOT the voltage should move up smoothly without any voltage drops up to around 4.6-5.0..If you meter isn't showing any movement , and the wires are hooked up right , then it's time to replace your TPS......WW
First of all, I would say that I've made a mistake, chilton's manual say to read voltage at TPS connector blu wire not grey, so i need to came back to the car and make a new read
First of all, I would say that I've made a mistake, chilton's manual say to read voltage at TPS connector blu wire not grey, so i need to came back to the car and make a new read
The reason I'm not familiar with what wires to hook to is because I always set mine with a scanner...Scanners are quicker......WW
PS...The .54 is for a L98 engine, the LT1 starts with a slightly different reading. You just want to have a smooth voltage progression with no dead spots or fluctuations as you move the throttle upward....WW
The reason I'm not familiar with what wires to hook to is because I always set mine with a scanner...Scanners are quicker......WW
PS...The .54 is for a L98 engine, the LT1 starts with a slightly different reading. You just want to have a smooth voltage progression with no dead spots or fluctuations as you move the throttle upward....WW
Well i've just made a read again, seems that there's a slightly voltage progression... But just from 0,60v to 4.13 or 4.64 don't remember right one...
Anyway there are two strange thing
No possibility to get it lower then 0,60v this is full unscrew TB screw...
It won't go over 4,64 v as higher voltage
What I'm searching for is the right voltage to set lt1 Tps via TB screw
If you have a 95 Corvette your TPS is "NOT" adjustable..You just screw it in and your finished...If your reading goes from .60 to 4.64 without the voltage dropping, then there's nothing wrong with your TPS......The only ones that are adjustable are on the older cars..You can screw the TB screw all day and it won't change the settings on the TPS..But you will mess up your idle adjustment...... .WW
If you have a 95 Corvette your TPS is "NOT" adjustable...You just screw it in and your finished..The only ones that are adjustable are on the older cars..You can screw the TB screw all day and it won't change the settings on the TPS..But you will mess up your idle adjustment.... .WW
It's true that tos in not adjustable, infact in cannot rotate it when Installed on TB
THOUGH
screw on TB side moves shaft and blades as result it moves even tps on the other shaft side located
My problem is that screw was been messed
Last edited by Christi@n; Sep 24, 2015 at 05:24 PM.
A normal multimeter is typically too slow to register a voltage drop off in some cases. While some multimeters might display the drop, I recommend a graphing meter.
A normal multimeter is typically too slow to register a voltage drop off in some cases. While some multimeters might display the drop, I recommend a graphing meter.
here our friends mention about 0.64 v with minimum open throttle.
infact mine wont go under 0.6 v. but I can increase it a little bit tighting TB screw
You don't have to worry about if it's .6 or .64 or whatever as long as it's close, because the cars computer ( ECM) will figure out what your low reading is and will set it for you from there...Your making this much harder for yourself then it has to be........WW
You don't have to worry about if it's .6 or .64 or whatever as long as it's close, because the cars computer ( ECM) will figure out what your low reading is and will set it for you from there...Your making this much harder for yourself then it has to be........WW
The PCM reads the TPS voltage when you turn on the ignition and saves that number and calls it "idle". It should be approximately 0.6 volts for non-adjustable TPS sensors.
But what is the TB idle screw purpouse?i've heard many times that there's a plug on it, and is a good thing do not mees with it
Chris
The idle screw is to adjust the amount of air that the engine needs to work properly with the other components of the engine.. If you have moved the screw off of factory settings you would have to do a "minimum air adjustment" to get it back where it belongs...WW
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The idle screw is to adjust the amount of air that the engine needs to work properly with the other components of the engine.. If you have moved the screw off of factory settings you would have to do a "minimum air adjustment" to get it back where it belongs...WW
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Yes I've done it,
do you know what need to do in order to get a minimum air adjustememt?
Either your throttle body is too dirty to allow the throttle blades to close all the way...
Or, you have a small vacuum leak somewhere causing the higher idle...
Or, your ECM is commanding the IAC open too far for some reason
Or, your IAC is not acting correctly.
All except the first are easy to spot with a good scan tool.
Those plugs on on the throttle body so people don't screw around with them trying to fix it the WRONG way. Not a dig at you but I've seen that before on GM throttle bodies.
Dumb question does it idle at that RPM ALL the time? A/C on and off? In gear and not in gear? Hot and cold?