C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1985 corvette L98 engine knock

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Old 10-09-2015, 11:35 AM
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Banksysvette
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Default 1985 corvette L98 engine knock

Looking for help please, running out of money for sensors.
Bought the car 3 mos. ago.
Noticed the knock right away but thought tune-up and timing, and all will be ok. WRONG!!
Did tune and wires, played with timing and put it back to 6 degrees.
Getting knock at almost wide open throttle and at WOT.
I understand knock sensor will retard timing but why am i getting knock in the first place. Done TPS adjust and idle air adjust according to corvette forum members advice. Removed and cleaned throttle body and cleaned carbon from iac. Rough idle at start-up and won't go over 500 rpm when first started until warm. Checked for vaccum leaks and none found. Every time i start it from cold it never starts or idles the same as the time previous. HELP please??

Last edited by Banksysvette; 10-09-2015 at 12:33 PM.
Old 10-09-2015, 12:10 PM
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John A. Marker
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First, I would not rev the engine to 5000 RPM when cold.

With the car running I would use a automotive stethoscope to try and pin point the source of your knock. This sounds more like a internal issue, bad bearings, rod, piston slap or other issue. Use the stethoscope and move it around on the block to try an locate the noise.


Is it the sound of metal on metal? Ping and kind of a chugging? At all RPM or in a specific range?
Old 10-09-2015, 12:32 PM
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Banksysvette
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Sorry i meant 500 rpm.
Old 10-09-2015, 12:35 PM
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Banksysvette
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Only get knock when driving down the road at WOT. Won't knock at WOT while in park.
Old 10-09-2015, 12:50 PM
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JrRifleCoach
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Time to pull the pan for an inspection
Old 10-09-2015, 01:26 PM
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John A. Marker
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Sounds more like a problem with the distributor advancing and a lean condition with fuel. I would start by putting a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. You can "borrow" from many auto parts stores. Attach the gauge and read the pressure with the car at idle. The pressure should be around 36-39 PSI. Now slowly increase the RPMs and watch the gauge. Does the pressure drop?

Next question, do you know if the engine is stock? Is there a stock computer chip in the computer?
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Old 10-09-2015, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
Sounds more like a problem with the distributor advancing and a lean condition with fuel. I would start by putting a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. You can "borrow" from many auto parts stores. Attach the gauge and read the pressure with the car at idle. The pressure should be around 36-39 PSI. Now slowly increase the RPMs and watch the gauge. Does the pressure drop?

Next question, do you know if the engine is stock? Is there a stock computer chip in the computer?
Thanks John, I changed out the distributor cap, rotor and spark module when i did the plugs and wires. i will put a fuel gauge on it and see what it reads and go from there. I really don't know the history on the car as the last owner only had it a year and the owner before him for 20 years. It was the elderly womans husbands car. It was also swithched from a 4+3 standard tranny to an automatic. Some aftermarket wiring i see also in the engine compartment. How would i check the Chip?

Last edited by Banksysvette; 10-09-2015 at 02:19 PM.
Old 10-09-2015, 10:14 PM
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jv9999
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If you leave the timing test connector disconnected, does it still knock?
Old 10-10-2015, 12:41 AM
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Cliff Harris
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It's possible that the outer ring of your harmonic balancer has moved and the timing is not what you think it is.

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