C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Passenger Side Power Window Regulator

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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 02:37 PM
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Default Passenger Side Power Window Regulator

My wife's C4 is an '86 model with the older style ribbon style. When I went to roll the window down it broke.



I've searched here on the board and found some good info on replacement. It looks pretty straight forward and can be done in a few hours.

My question is pretty much coming down to which direction do I need to go. Install a new ribbon for $30 or do the scissor style upgrade for $115 for a used regulator assembly.
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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 02:53 PM
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Id do the upgrade. That way its done once and done for good unless the motor goes out.
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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 04:29 PM
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I upgraded to the scissor style regulators and also added the window guide rods. It's not a bad job and well worth the effort to have more modern power windows that are fast and sturdy. The most difficult aspect of this job is getting your windows aligned, since you will have no reference marks on the new regulators.

Too bad you weren't closer you could have my old ones.
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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 06:32 PM
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After reading multiple threads on here about this subject I decided to go with the upgrade. I'll do the drivers side in a couple months.

Got it all disassembled and now waiting for the little brown truck of happiness.




I do have another question about the two holes that might need to be drilled. The production date on this C4 is 10/85 and I could only find one hole on the side panel of the door and the two on the bottom. Where exactly are the two holes referred to for this install.

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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 06:35 PM
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My build date was 11/85. All verts came with the newer style regulators so you should already have the holes for it. Mine did. Ill get you a photo of mine when I get home from work tomorrow.
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Old Oct 24, 2015 | 11:49 PM
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My build date was 12/85 and my car does have the two mounting holes in the bottoms of the doors. I have upgraded both window regulators to the newer version.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 09:56 PM
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Received the new regulator today and test fit it in the door. Now I know where the two holes are supposed to be. Well not on my door.

For those who have made the upgrade please take a look at the picture and let me know if my marks are correct.

I bolted it up at the top and used a sharpie on the bottom through the threaded holes.

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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SemperFiArms
Received the new regulator today and test fit it in the door. Now I know where the two holes are supposed to be. Well not on my door. For those who have made the upgrade please take a look at the picture and let me know if my marks are correct. I bolted it up at the top and used a sharpie on the bottom through the threaded holes.
Let me go take a couple quick measurements. Be right back..

Ok. This is what I get by holding the tape at the bottom rear corner of the door.


Last edited by Dt86; Oct 27, 2015 at 10:26 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:40 PM
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Thanks, I'll grab my tape and double check but that looks about right with what I marked.

Were your holes slotted or round?
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SemperFiArms
Thanks, I'll grab my tape and double check but that looks about right with what I marked. Were your holes slotted or round?
Anytime. The holes are round in my door. The slotted one is for the rubber stopper.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 11:00 PM
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http://webpages.charter.net/khasting...windowreg.html

Here is the instructions I used
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 11:01 PM
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In case you weren't aware... The wiring on the pass side has to be reversed. Also if you look at the harness all you need to do is back cut the harness tape and there's plenty of wire to reach the connector.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dt86
In case you weren't aware... The wiring on the pass side has to be reversed. Also if you look at the harness all you need to do is back cut the harness tape and there's plenty of wire to reach the connector.
Yeah I had read about that already. I had the release tool to push the pins out of the connector. After 25 years working on heavy equipment, you tend to have a decent collection of tools.

One thing I don't have that you referenced in your prior post is the rubber window stop. The link above said he used weather stripping. Are those stops available from some of the vendors? I might as well get a couple since I'll be doing the left side shortly.

Last edited by SemperFiArms; Oct 28, 2015 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 08:28 AM
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Cut a 5/8 piece of heater hose about 2 inches long. Cut a 1 in deep on 1 side.
Drill a hole in the bottom so you can fit a 10mm bolt through, It will spring back and
cover the bolt and you have a good bumper
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by xrav22
Cut a 5/8 piece of heater hose about 2 inches long. Cut a 1 in deep on 1 side.
Drill a hole in the bottom so you can fit a 10mm bolt through, It will spring back and
cover the bolt and you have a good bumper
Thanks, great idea. I have several feet of hose in the shop.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 03:28 PM
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Yeah I don't believe you can get those anymore, except from a salvage car.
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 10:29 PM
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Got her done. I'd like to thank Dt86 and everyone else who helped out and gave advice on how to do the swap.

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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SemperFiArms
Got her done. I'd like to thank Dt86 and everyone else who helped out and gave advice on how to do the swap.


Glad to help!
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Old Aug 7, 2023 | 07:30 PM
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In the middle of this now!
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