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So I have put a 87 motor and wiring setup in my 85 c4, I'm not getting injector pulse and since I'm a college kid with a budget what do you all think of this?
From my understanding the ECM must receive a 2.5V signal on the B6 white wire pin out of the ECM, so my idea is to hook up a fuse along with a dimmer switch to a 12v source and crank it down to 2.5v hooked up to the ECM VATS signal.
So I have put a 87 motor and wiring setup in my 85 c4, I'm not getting injector pulse and since I'm a college kid with a budget what do you all think of this?
From my understanding the ECM must receive a 2.5V signal on the B6 white wire pin out of the ECM, so my idea is to hook up a fuse along with a dimmer switch to a 12v source and crank it down to 2.5v hooked up to the ECM VATS signal.
No I doubt that would work. The ECM on early cars I believe wants to see a 30Hz signal to allow fuel enable. There are I believe VATS by-pass modules that do the proper signal. Baker comes to mind.
A GOOGLE search for this should get you sufficient information to either buy or build: "30Hz signal generator for VATS"
No I doubt that would work. The ECM on early cars I believe wants to see a 30Hz signal to allow fuel enable. There are I believe VATS by-pass modules that do the proper signal. Baker comes to mind.
A GOOGLE search for this should get you sufficient information to either buy or build: "30Hz signal generator for VATS"
I have one of the commercially made bypass modules on my 89 that I purchased from Corvette Central for around $30.00, it works fine...WW
Since I do not have the ignition lock or VATS module can anyone point me to a bypass that will work at the ecm?
I wouldn't rely on information from myself or others. I'd send a request to Baker and explain completely what you've done. Mention by the ECM # removed and that it's an '85 with NO key resistance and that you've replaced the engine etc. with '87 and mention ECM # and that you're interested in likely only what's required for the 30Hz. You're not the first to need but I do believe I'd rely on a vendor to "answer your questions" I know what I'd do BUT I do believe you need to do this "yourself".
There's likely other vendors but Baker has been quite reliable through the years. Base your decision on "your conversations" with various vendors.
Maybe return here with what was mentioned by them.
The better prepared to answer their questions the better your results likely. If you'd like to try Baker:
yes - everything is included in there to fabricate your own generator but in this country the "Radio Shack" source has pretty much dried up (they've gone out of business) so by the time you locate the required parts and combine some shipping from maybe two or more suppliers you've likely spent the same or more as a "retail" purchase of maybe a functional one out of the box.
Originally Posted by chevyowner
Another option cost depending who you get to do this would be to have vats programed out of the tune.
Now you have to trust a "tuner" and if there's not a local I wouldn't send a known GOOD "GENUINE/PROM" to anyone. Unless you know the "tuner" it's quite likely that you wouldn't receive your original back. Correct PROMs bring a premium price these days and the temptation I'm sure is there.
There are responsible tuners but the who/where is maybe unknown.
Like you mentioned - then there's the cost. How much does the tuner break while doing the attempt?
Now you have to trust a "tuner" and if there's not a local I wouldn't send a known GOOD "GENUINE/PROM" to anyone. Unless you know the "tuner" it's quite likely that you wouldn't receive your original back. Correct PROMs bring a premium price these days and the temptation I'm sure is there.
There are responsible tuners but the who/where is maybe unknown.
Like you mentioned - then there's the cost. How much does the tuner break while doing the attempt?
You should never send a prom to anyone, or let them modify the programing on it.
Not everyone like this option, but IMO it is the best one. I would use a G1 from moates. The only thing in the tune that needs changing to disable vats is to simply uncheck a box.
Last edited by aDigitalPhantom; Oct 25, 2015 at 06:25 PM.
Reason: correcting autocorrect
The only thing in the tune that needs changing to disable vats is to simply uncheck a box.
That sounds too simple. The ECM does two things related to the VATS signal. One is to check the VATS signal to make sure it's 30 Hz (+/- 10 Hz) and report an error code 46 if it doesn't see the correct frequency.
Does the check box fix both of these or only eliminate the error code?
That sounds too simple. The ECM does two things related to the VATS signal. One is to check the VATS signal to make sure it's 30 Hz (+/- 10 Hz) and report an error code 46 if it doesn't see the correct frequency.
Does the check box fix both of these or only eliminate the error code?
I looked in tunercats. AFAIK it does both, but it might only remove the check for the 30hz signal. If that is the case there is another check to disable the error code.