Now that looked like fun. Nice car too.
First time at the track
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 113
From: Michigan
New u-joint, what brand? Solid or greaseable?
I've read that some clutches hit too hard for a c4 rearend, but I'm an auto guy so idk what brand. Still it don't look like you left too hard and some light spin or the light chirping helps keep the rearend alive with the initial shock. I don't see much squat either. You'll never know the exact cause, but I'd be real careful to make sure you install the next u-joint correct and don't get one of the needles in the end of the cap. Still it could have been the axle that broke 1st.
I've seen some of your post with parts you've used and you should be running much faster. I'd look at your tune maybe, that launch rpm is kinda high.
I'd also maybe buy some half shaft loops like dragvette has. You'll wanna sand/smooth any rough edges made by the broken parts inside the knuckle, but don't take away excessive material.
Sucks you broke, hope things go better for yah!
I've read that some clutches hit too hard for a c4 rearend, but I'm an auto guy so idk what brand. Still it don't look like you left too hard and some light spin or the light chirping helps keep the rearend alive with the initial shock. I don't see much squat either. You'll never know the exact cause, but I'd be real careful to make sure you install the next u-joint correct and don't get one of the needles in the end of the cap. Still it could have been the axle that broke 1st.
I've seen some of your post with parts you've used and you should be running much faster. I'd look at your tune maybe, that launch rpm is kinda high.
I'd also maybe buy some half shaft loops like dragvette has. You'll wanna sand/smooth any rough edges made by the broken parts inside the knuckle, but don't take away excessive material.
Sucks you broke, hope things go better for yah!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
What are your mods?
IMHO, and from fact, you should be able to pull better 60's on tires like that. I can pull 1.9X's on 255/40/17 Dunlap ZII's.....which are a great 200TW auto-x tire but hook pretty good at the strip too!!
I doubt Atco has bad track prep. PRP is pretty sticky as of late. I wish I had air like that around here. I need to do more drag strip stuff again........
IMHO, and from fact, you should be able to pull better 60's on tires like that. I can pull 1.9X's on 255/40/17 Dunlap ZII's.....which are a great 200TW auto-x tire but hook pretty good at the strip too!!
I doubt Atco has bad track prep. PRP is pretty sticky as of late. I wish I had air like that around here. I need to do more drag strip stuff again........
New u-joint, what brand? Solid or greaseable?
I've read that some clutches hit too hard for a c4 rearend, but I'm an auto guy so idk what brand. Still it don't look like you left too hard and some light spin or the light chirping helps keep the rearend alive with the initial shock. I don't see much squat either. You'll never know the exact cause, but I'd be real careful to make sure you install the next u-joint correct and don't get one of the needles in the end of the cap. Still it could have been the axle that broke 1st.
I've seen some of your post with parts you've used and you should be running much faster. I'd look at your tune maybe, that launch rpm is kinda high.
I'd also maybe buy some half shaft loops like dragvette has. You'll wanna sand/smooth any rough edges made by the broken parts inside the knuckle, but don't take away excessive material.
Sucks you broke, hope things go better for yah!
I've read that some clutches hit too hard for a c4 rearend, but I'm an auto guy so idk what brand. Still it don't look like you left too hard and some light spin or the light chirping helps keep the rearend alive with the initial shock. I don't see much squat either. You'll never know the exact cause, but I'd be real careful to make sure you install the next u-joint correct and don't get one of the needles in the end of the cap. Still it could have been the axle that broke 1st.
I've seen some of your post with parts you've used and you should be running much faster. I'd look at your tune maybe, that launch rpm is kinda high.
I'd also maybe buy some half shaft loops like dragvette has. You'll wanna sand/smooth any rough edges made by the broken parts inside the knuckle, but don't take away excessive material.
Sucks you broke, hope things go better for yah!
Also, in case anyone didn't see before or forgot, this is a picture of the dyno run.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
So, I see with your HP, that getting into the 12s, with 350 horses, is doable. Dang Daniel, bet you get there next season andthat will give you dragging rights with your friends ( and here to seeing as how am trying to get into the 13s). best of luck and know we are rooting/pulling for you.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 39
So, I see with your HP, that getting into the 12s, with 350 horses, is doable. Dang Daniel, bet you get there next season andthat will give you dragging rights with your friends ( and here to seeing as how am trying to get into the 13s). best of luck and know we are rooting/pulling for you.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
It does to me. My stock + Muffs C6 trapped 112, here in UT at 4200' elevation. It was a little lighter than your car, and it did put down ~360 RWHP...but still other 340 RWHP 3300lb cars trap better than 108.
You need more complete passes. As I said, go back when fixed, and make passes to start with, not worrying about your RT/ET/60, etc. Just lay down some very clean passes. Then you'll get a legitimate trap BASE that you can work from and scrutinize.
You need more complete passes. As I said, go back when fixed, and make passes to start with, not worrying about your RT/ET/60, etc. Just lay down some very clean passes. Then you'll get a legitimate trap BASE that you can work from and scrutinize.
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
I looked at your dyno sheet as well.
My stock (Setup for SCCA B Street auto-x=NO power mods or driveline, very limited modifications in this class) 93 ZF6 runs consistent 13.4-13.5's at around 102-105. My best was a 13.38@105.
I had my car dyno'ed on a Dynojet and on that day it made 246 RWHP and 304RWTQ. My car is 3300lbs without me in it at least on that scale.
I think given your modifications you picked up quite a bit of HP and only 40ish TQ? That seems not right at all, compared to a stock LT1.
I think 108 is too slow for your HP levels and goals. I agree with Tom that you need to make more passes before making any decisions or conclusions. I have 45 passes to draw data from on my car.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,870
Likes: 25
From: Long Island, NY
Vic