C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Bad TPS? OR?

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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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Default Bad TPS? OR?

I've been chasing a gremlin in my 84 that pops lt ugly head after about 30 min of driving.Ive replaced every sensor/ ignition part/ CAT/ fuel pump / o2 sensor w/the exception of TPS /PU coil and ECM, As stated in other threads car runs great then fails on its face.To me seems to be heat related. NO CODES NO SEL. My question is if the TPS goes haywire could it tell the ECM that the throttle plates are closed when actually there not.Car will idle but runs like its super lean.No power. Plugs also reflect that.Pops out TB. OR could the timing be getting retarded somehow?Help!!

Last edited by gjohnson; Nov 13, 2015 at 12:46 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 12:43 PM
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02 sensors are normal mantaince.
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 12:46 PM
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Replaced that, forgot to list it cause I've replaced some many things.
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by gjohnson
Replaced that, forgot to list it cause I've replaced some many things.
make sure the wires to it are not melted and shorting out. check the temp sensor and connectns that goes to the puter.

Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 13, 2015 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 01:37 PM
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Do you have good fuel pressure? Should be about 13 PSI all the time. The Cross-Fires are real sensitive to fuel pressure and the 1984 fuel pumps are not real good at sustaining steady pressure. A fix if the pressure is low is to install a 1985 or later TPI fuel pump. I know you put in a new pump but, the 1984 ones have difficulty with maintaining pressure. If you do not know the TPS is good, the test procedure is in the Factory Service Manual, you need a Volt-Ohm Meter, and replacements are not too expensive. My bet is the fuel pump is marginal and fuel pressure drops below 13 PSI under load when it warms up.
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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You didn't mention the fuel filter.

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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
You didn't mention the fuel filter.

oops. replaced that too! I did pull the ecm today and its already been replaced w/a sticker that reads Delco Elec. factory authorized reman.module #01226026 so I'm hopin that takes that out of the equation Thanks for the replys everyone

Last edited by gjohnson; Nov 13, 2015 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 12:14 AM
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Have you checked the dizzy? I had a similar problem and after replacing the distributor the problem was gone.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Bangkok Dean
Have you checked the dizzy? I had a similar problem and after replacing the distributor the problem was gone.
Maybe NOT replacing the assembly but you mention that you haven't replaced the P/U Coil. If the car starts and runs fine when cold but stumbles and a no start when hot I'd certainly do the P/U coil and check the wiring. You didn't mention the internal module either but I'll assume that might have been an oversight on your part.

The aggravating part of the P/U coil is that it requires removal of the distributor from the car and a bench replacement of the part. Maybe why you've avoided it?
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 12:07 PM
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Ive replaced all ignition parts except PU coil.When it starts running bad it still will idle fine and has no problems starting up again if I shut it off.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 01:46 PM
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I'm still questioning the fuel pump output. Will it hold 13 psi when accelerating?
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 1984Z51auto
I'm still questioning the fuel pump output. Will it hold 13 psi when accelerating?
Ive still got that to check in real time. I'm gonna tee the line and tape the gauge to the windshield and drive it untill it acts up. I have had a new fuel pump malfunction on my truck before.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 04:31 PM
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A later style GM HEI (NOT coil in cap) but same/similar symptoms. First thing we did was pull the cap and the connector pole piece/ PU coil to module was corroded so out with the distributor, replaced pole piece/PU coil and there was no further issues. Done. Best I recall mine would start when HOT but stumble, it's been many years ago, many years.

Didn't futz with anything else. First thing we went to after a "tap test" on the ECM.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 15, 2015 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
A later style GM HEI (NOT coil in cap) but same/similar symptoms. First thing we did was pull the cap and the connector pole piece/ PU coil to module was corroded so out with the distributor, replaced pole piece/PU coil and there was no further issues. Done. Best I recall mine would start when HOT but stumble, it's been many years ago, many years.

Didn't futz with anything else. First thing we went to after a "tap test" on the ECM.
I dropped the ECM down and did the tap test while driving to see if I could get it to act up. Nothing,so I hope its good to go. Gonna do the Fuel pressure test while driving to eliminate that then going to the PU coil. Thanks for the reply.

Last edited by gjohnson; Nov 15, 2015 at 07:42 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gjohnson
I've been chasing a gremlin in my 84 that pops lt ugly head after about 30 min of driving.Ive replaced every sensor/ ignition part/ CAT/ fuel pump / o2 sensor w/the exception of TPS /PU coil and ECM, As stated in other threads car runs great then fails on its face.To me seems to be heat related. NO CODES NO SEL. My question is if the TPS goes haywire could it tell the ECM that the throttle plates are closed when actually there not.Car will idle but runs like its super lean.No power. Plugs also reflect that.Pops out TB. OR could the timing be getting retarded somehow?Help!!
The TPS sensor can make your car act real strange (low rpm's at idle, cause the car to jerk when engine is cold ,and just shut off the engine at a idle speed for no reason) and refuse to throw a code. Go to ebay and buy the least expensive TPS you can find and try it.
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