When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I finally got my lower control arm off. Took a little persuasion. But I can't seem to get out rear bolt. Not sure how I am going to get the control arm back in.
I believe the simplest is to unbolt the diagonal brace to remove BUT I believe I've seen it mentioned that you can remove bolt without. I doubt that. **There's no need to "cut the bolt" but many have I'm sure.
When you reassemble just turn the bolt entry around.
**There's I'm sure threads relating to removing the diagonal brace AGAIN - CUT NOTHING
I believe the simplest is to unbolt the diagonal brace to remove BUT I believe I've seen it mentioned that you can remove bolt without. I doubt that. **There's no need to "cut the bolt" but many have I'm sure.
When you reassemble just turn the bolt entry around.
**There's I'm sure threads relating to removing the diagonal brace AGAIN - CUT NOTHING
Remove the diagonal bracing that runs from the frame rail to the center of the engine cradle. 4 bolts (two 15mm, two 13mm), one nut (18mm) per side. Contrary to how it appears, these braces do not support the engine and can be removed with the engine in the car.
I cut the bolt but had them laying around do what is best for you.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 14, 2015 at 04:38 PM.
I just removed mine for new bushings and ended up cutting that bolt and picking up a new set. Started to take off the diagonal brace but couldn't budge the outer most bolts that run up the brace. Took only a few minutes with my dremal tool and a metal cutting wheel.
Remove the diagonal bracing that runs from the frame rail to the center of the engine cradle. 4 bolts (two 15mm, two 13mm), one nut (18mm) per side. Contrary to how it appears, these braces do not support the engine and can be removed with the engine in the car.
I cut the bolt but had them laying around do what is best for you.
Remove the diagonal bracing that runs from the frame rail to the center of the engine cradle. 4 bolts (two 15mm, two 13mm), one nut (18mm) per side. Contrary to how it appears, these braces do not support the engine and can be removed with the engine in the car.
I cut the bolt but had them laying around do what is best for you.
Its funny the procedure is in the FSM to remove the braces. Might be time to invest in some of those here folks? Cutting the bolt....really?
have that but after 30+ years in the factory have found many ways easyer and faster. who do you think puts the info up for the FSM? and do really think we do repairs by the book when doing repairs in the factory?
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 15, 2015 at 03:22 PM.
have that but after 30+ years in the factory have found many ways easyer and faster. who do you think puts the info up for the FSM? and do really think we do repairs by the book when doing repairs in the factory?
And the "product" generally was about as reliable as the AZZhatts that assembled it. The assembly line guys have NOTHING to do with the assembly/publishing of the FSM.
There's "skilled" and then there's the AZZhatts - the few skilled were certainly kept busy by the AZZhatts that "thought they knew and tried to short cut" - were it NOT for the UAW there would have likely been many "showed the door". The product would likely have improved much faster than it has.
Its funny the procedure is in the FSM to remove the braces. Might be time to invest in some of those here folks? Cutting the bolt....really?
Also knew "how to" do it by the FSM. Don't have a lift and wasn't enough room with my Z up on stands to get a breaker bar into the tight little area that the last bolt was in. Cutting the bolt took only a few minutes and a new one was pocket change at Fastenal. Sometimes I like to work smarter not harder.
And the "product" generally was about as reliable as the AZZhatts that assembled it. The assembly line guys have NOTHING to do with the assembly/publishing of the FSM.
There's "skilled" and then there's the AZZhatts - the few skilled were certainly kept busy by the AZZhatts that "thought they knew and tried to short cut" - were it NOT for the UAW there would have likely been many "showed the door". The product would likely have improved much faster than it has.
how old is your unreliable vette?
where are you getting your info from? who said the assembly line guys had anything to do with it? and how many pilot builds have you been involved in?
how is your hissy fit helping anyone?
have seen a lot of good info from you keep up the good work.
where do you think the FSM came from?
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 15, 2015 at 07:29 PM.
Also knew "how to" do it by the FSM. Don't have a lift and wasn't enough room with my Z up on stands to get a breaker bar into the tight little area that the last bolt was in. Cutting the bolt took only a few minutes and a new one was pocket change at Fastenal. Sometimes I like to work smarter not harder.
Maybe I'm missing something here , but if you cut the bolt because you can't get it out, how do you get the new bolt in? ...Wouldn't you have the same clearance problem getting the new bolt in as you had getting the old bolt out?....?...WW
Maybe I'm missing something here , but if you cut the bolt because you can't get it out, how do you get the new bolt in? ...Wouldn't you have the same clearance problem getting the new bolt in as you had getting the old bolt out?....?...WW
I believe the general consensus is to reverse the entry of the bolt to make R&R in the future easier BUT that's not to say it's the proper approach. I mentioned it in my earlier post because it's mentioned frequently BUT again doesn't make it right.
The suggestions for using "generic" off the shelf hardware is foolish. You can see in the OP's snapshot the bolt is far from "generic". The bolt has a 13mm shoulder under the head and the washer used there is also 13mm ID. I've never actually measured the bore of the x-member BUT I believe the insertion on the bolts is "engineered" to fit the control arms correctly.
What do I know? NOTHING I GUESS but I can tell you that "CORRECT HARDWARE" does matter and I'd think is maybe critical or certainly desired if you're doing suspension work.
AZZhats on the "assembly line" - oh well.
I would think that possibly when you try to insert the bolt front to rear you should incur resistance and you would need to suck the 13mm shoulder into the 12mm bore and on the rear you would have maybe a less than desired fit of the 12mm threaded diameter in the 13mm bore.
The bolt has the 13mm shoulder for x-member fit, a 12mm shoulder for the bushing bore and a the reduced diameter that is accomplished by the threading operation which likely the x-member bore is adjusted to accommodate.
I've never measured and won't - there's no need to if you take stuff apart and assemble "AS INTENDED with CORRECT hardware.
Someone mentioned "smarter" well I think that a little more than a "passing glance" at the hardware used might enlighten but then again maybe NOT.
Lower control arm removal
