One other question....when putting the motor back in, do you put in the short block, then put on the heads, or do you assemble the whole thing and drop it in?

 

re-install your engine as a longblock. it will make the job much easier for you. good luck!

 

The more you can assemble, out of the car, the better....

 

Ok, I lied before...this is the last question (I hope). Do I need to take out the radiator?

 

I think there's room enough to pull the engine with the radiator in place.
I just looked at my 84. The engine is out; I'm building a fresh 383.

I removed it to get it out of harms way - away from the loose wrench, or engine as it swings up and out.

The radiator tubes are easily damaged. I've talked to guys who put a couple of pieces of cardboard over the radiator to protect it while they work around it and pull the engine (I set the radiator back in to keep it out of the way while I build the 383 and put a couple of pieces of cardboard over it).

I like a clean shop floor, so I put #7 rubber stoppers in the inlet & outlet and small (#00 or 000) stoppers in the oil cooler lines and fittings to keep the fluids in while I handle the radiator.

When I pull a long block, I also plug the engine’s coolant and oil outlets and fittings. It takes a few mins. but I’m not slipping in coolant and oil. And it’s not tracked into the house.

Oh, another thing – plug the fuel lines!!

While the front of the car is up in the air or on an inclined drive, fuel may not flow out the open lines. However, as in my case; when the vehicle was rolled back into the level garage the fuel began to run out onto the floor. Luckily I noticed it before I closed the door and went in the house for the night. I can’t believe I missed that! I’m so glad I have a great sniffer!

I pull the fuel pump fuse so the pump wouldn’t run if the ignition is switched ON while the lines were removed from the TBI /Fuel Rail. Most GM computer controlled cars and trucks fuel pump relays are energized for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned from OFF to CRANK /RUN. Additionally, truck ECM /VCM /PCMs energize the relay when the ignition switch is turned from RUN to OFF /LOCK.

It’s not hard to pull the engine, it just takes some time to label stuff, draw /take pictures to help put it all back the way it came out. The harness routing needs special attention. Rubbed through, pinched or charred wires down the road can give the ECM fits!

Best of luck, any more Q’s just ask. :yesnod:

 

Ah, what's up with the time stamp?

I just posted and the time here is 10:00pm EDST; yet the post shows 2:50 am 09/07!!?? :crazy:

 

Uh oh! You opened a can of worms! :)

Any suggestions on the easiest way to:

Bleed the fuel line (release pressure etc so I can remove the fule rails etc)

and

easiest way to remove the aic conditioning unit - I'm worried about releasing the pressure on it as well...

thanks! Your write up was very helpful!

 

<<Bleed the fuel line (release pressure etc so I can remove the fule rails etc) >>
Relieving Fuel Pressure
If the engine still runs:
- Pull the fuel pump fuse
- Run the engine until it dies

If the engine can't be run:
- Pull the fuel pump fuse (just to be safe, not because you'll be running the pump - see earlier post)
- Use a disposable shop rag or 2 to catch the fuel (it won't be more than a few oz's)
- At the fuel pressure tap on the fuel rail /line relieve the fuel pressure (take off the plastic cap and gently press the valve stem (it looks like a tire valve stem BUT they're not interchangeable))
- If there is no fuel pressure tap (i.e.: 84 Vette) loosen the supply fuel line fitting at the Throttle Body

Use a disposable shop rag to catch any fuel from lines, rails, Throttle Bodies, filter, etc…

Don’t leave the rags inside!! I put them outside to ‘air out’ overnight and then put them in a metal can outside. Don’t try to reuse them – it’s just not worth the risk.

Sorry if I’m stating the obvious; I’d just hate to see anyone get hurt.
<< easiest way to remove the aic conditioning unit - I'm worried about releasing the pressure on it as well...>>
I didn’t remove the A/C compressor, etc; because I didn’t want to recharge the system and because of the high pressure danger, Ozone layer depletion (OK, OK just kidding… I’m just lazy; but really it’s illegal to vent R-12 to the atmosphere), cost of R-12 (I’m cheap also!)….
I removed the A/C compressor from the block and wired it out of the way. This worked OK on my ’84, I’m not sure about other years.

I hope this helps!

Keep 'em comming. :)

 

[QUOTE
Keep 'em comming. :)[/QUOTE]

Okey Dokey! :)

Yes, all of your info did help, although I took a different approach to the ac unit. I don't think there was any way around taking the compressor off, so I had to bleed the system. Just did it slowly. I could not get the line off the power steering pump to save my life, so I had to disconnect it at the steering column. Even after I had it removed I still couldn't get that line off!

That was about all the work today. Oh yeah, got the wiper motor out too.

So now I'm down to the final stretch, or close..

1) Do I need to remove the radiator and shroud? It doesn't look like I would, but I wanted a second opinion.

2) I assume the water pump etc assembly comes off after the engine is out?

3) I assume there is a bleed valve for the tranny? I've never dropped one before so I'm a bit edgy about it (it's a 94 ZF 6sp). This thread has gnerated some good info on that so I hope I have it covered, but I have basic questions like the one just asked.

4) Should I replace the clutch while I'm this far into things? How can I tell if it needs replacing (33k on the car)?

That should do it for now! I'll have more, trust me...

Man are my knuckles and back sore! And I haven't even gotten the motor out yet!!

 

How do you see/feel the bellhousing bolts with the trans. lift a few inches when you drop the engine back in? I had a friend help took out my 88 engine out with the trans. still in the car. Now he wants to drop the trans. to have enough space for installing the bell housing bolts. From what you wrote, I don't have to drop the trans. and the exhaust and still can put the engine back in about 2 hours (against your half hour:))



[Modified by VQT88Vette, 11:17 PM 9/7/2002]

 

OK - I'll handle the one's I know something about.

<<1) Do I need to remove the radiator and shroud? It doesn't look like I would, but I wanted a second opinion. >>

I think there's room enough to pull the engine with the radiator in place.
I just looked at my 84. I removed it to get it out of harms way - away from the loose wrench, or engine as it swings up and out.

The radiator tubes are easily damaged. I've talked to guys who put a couple of pieces of cardboard over the radiator to protect it while they work around it and pull the engine (I set the radiator back in to keep it out of the way while I build the 383 and put a couple of pieces of cardboard over it).

<<2) I assume the water pump etc assembly comes off after the engine is out?>>

Yep.

I took mine off when I pulled the heads and pulled the harmonic balancer just cause I wanted lots of room, but it's not necessary.

<<3) I assume there is a bleed valve for the tranny? I've never dropped one before so I'm a bit edgy about it (it's a 94 ZF 6sp). This thread has gnerated some good info on that so I hope I have it covered, but I have basic questions like the one just asked.>>

You don't have to bleed any pressure from the ZF.

There probably is a drain plug for changing the oil, look at the lowest point for a square /hex head plug. It may be on the bottom or on the side near the bottom.

You can drain it if you want. That would minimize the oil loss when the tranny is removed. The drive shaft will be out of course, and oil will run out the tail shaft when the back is lower than the front. I've R&R'd a tranny with out draining oil but you do loose some out the back before you can put a rag in it or keep it higher than the front.

The tranny is heavy - support it with a floor jack and have a helper lower it as you keep it balanced and pull it out.

When you put the tranny back in - there's a fill plug a few inches up the side of the case, put the correct fluid back in untill it reaches this level and just starts to run out. (That's the common meathod - better check the owner's manual or a shop manual. You'll be able to afford one with the $$ you save by doin the job yourself!)

<<4) Should I replace the clutch while I'm this far into things? How can I tell if it needs replacing (33k on the car)?>>

My pratice has been to replace the clutch assembly (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) if they have any miles on them.

My 84 has 39K and the disk has about 1/2 it's material left, the pressure plate and the flywheel look OK, the TO bearing is smooth and has plenty of material left.

I'm replacing them all - just because the tranny is out and I don't want any trouble later. It's a judgement call; if you have doubts or are not sure what a good one looks like take the parts to the parts store and ask. They'll let you look at a good one to compare and may offer advice.

I once took a clutch assembly to a BMW dealership shop and asked if I should replace the pressure plate and clutch disc - the old German shop foreman looked it over and said all that was needed was a clutch disk - I drove that 2002 Ti for 50k more miles without a clutch problem! Thanks Gunther, where ever you are!

I'm having the 84 flywheel resurfaced - it's like having brake rotors turned to let the pads (clutch disk) seat properly. I've skipped this part on other jobs (VW Bugs, MG-Bs, Triumphs, ...) but with a high performance sports car I want every chance for success.

When I pulled the motor on my 84, the next day my calfs ached from balancing while leaning over the wheels!

Keep going! :D


[Modified by torqueman2002, 3:44 AM 9/10/2002]

 

You do not have to remove the radiator or the AC stuff to pull the motor. Also you can unbolt the Power steering pump and leave it in the engine compartment too with the AC compressor.

 

I didn't know you could leave the power steering pump in the car. I knew the AC you could. It's seem like it's always a biiiitch going back in.

 

Update.....

Owing to several setbacks having nothing to do with the car, this appears to be the weekend we are going to try to get the motor out. I'm afraid, unless anyone can see another way to do this, that the hood is going to have to come off. Reason being is that I don't have enough room on either side of the car to work with the engine hoist, and going in through the front seems to be the only option. No biggie, just one extra pain. Also, my intent is to pull the transmission out along with the motot, since I intend to replace the clutch etc. I think it might be easier to try to rehook everything back up outside the car than trying it under the car.

I assume the best way to lift the block out of the car is to thread bolts into the block where the heads normally bolt in. Any suggestions other than threaded rods, bolts and washers?

Also how much does the block actually weigh - stripped down I mean (it will still have the crank and pistons but little else). Ditto trans (6spd)...

Also I am again placing an ad for volunteers in the area, if you are looking for something to do tomorrow I could use an extra set of hands.

thanks!