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Is there a good, step by step with pictures, guide to pulling an LT1 motor? What steps to take etc? I've pulled one before but never an LT1 and never out of a vette.....
I'm goingot try to leave the hood on. I don't think that will be a problem. It's already partially dis-assembled, heads are off and what not, and I don't have pictures of that - I had it in to have the heads ported and found out I had bigger issues, so instead of paying to have everything slapped back on I just towed it as is. I've bought a new short block and heads, yes, the problem was that bad, and those should be here sometime next week. I figured I could pull what's left of the motor in the meantime.
Like everyone else said, take your time and label everything. I went through so many baggies doing my engine work, I ended up switching to us those little plastic organizers like those used for fishing lures or sewing kits. It is cheaper and I can close it up and carry them off. It is easier to mark the stuff in baggies though. I quite marking my stuff, I can look at it and tell where it came from now (not necessarily a good thing).
Since you have a M6, you will have to pull that first before the motor will come out.
Leave the hood on, it is just extra work and not necessary.
Other than that, just check to make sure you got all ground wires, straps, and sensors disconnected before you pull it. And watch the oil pressure sensor on top in the back if the intake. It has a tendency to get crushed against the wiper motor.
the zf6 has to come out first, the engine comes out pretty easy with the hood on. basically lift it up, swing it sideways and walk the cherry picker back.
Save yourself some trouble and take off the wiper motor first.
Will do, sounds like good advice.
I have another bad/terrible/stupid question. How do I pull the ZF? I thought I could - perhaps over simplifying - basically unbolt the transmission from the block, and set it on a 4x4 or such. I suppose this will make more sense when I can actually look at the car, it's being delivered tomorrow from the shop.
the easiest way to pull the ZF so you can get the engine out goes like this. #1 unbolt the 4 beam bolts holding the rear of the transmission you'll have to be tricky with a open end wrench on top to hold the nut. #2 unbolt the rear part of the driveshaft from the rear end. #3 unbolt the 5 main bolts where the transmission meets the bellhousing. have a buddy holding up the rear of the trans or support it, next beat the beam off the transmission and the rear should slip down. pull the yoke from the transmission and take the driveshaft out. now use a floor jack or trans jack or whatever under the transmission and pull it back, some wrestling may be required. just don't let it slip down so far the input shaft binds.
Save yourself some trouble and take off the wiper motor first.
Will do, sounds like good advice.
I have another bad/terrible/stupid question. How do I pull the ZF? I thought I could - perhaps over simplifying - basically unbolt the transmission from the block, and set it on a 4x4 or such. I suppose this will make more sense when I can actually look at the car, it's being delivered tomorrow from the shop.
Man I love this forum! I looked at taking off the wiper motor but left it in. When I put the motor back in it'll come off for more room to get my hands behind the heads. Good tip.
I just pulled my 84 engine - spun #3 & 4 mains which took out # 5 & 6 rods which made a hell (oops, can I say that??) of a clatter.
Anyway to get to your question - if you have the room on the side of the car to get a cherry picker in and pulled back far enough to clear body then leave the hood on. This is the way I did it. It went smoothly, I did find I needed to take the mounts off the block to clear the frame. I left the 4+3 in with bellhousing. I had the heads off and it made it possible to get to upper and side bolts, harnesses, ground straps, brackets, etc...
I hear that the techs at GM's service research garage take the MT out and tip the back of the engine down to make room to get to top bolts with heads still on.
I'll try this to put the motor back in with it built up - heads, intake bolted up.
One other question....when putting the motor back in, do you put in the short block, then put on the heads, or do you assemble the whole thing and drop it in?
Leave the ZF in the car. Separate it from the bell housing. Pull out the engine/bellhousing , with the hood on. When installing, reverse the procedure. with the heads on!!! :yesnod:
:cheers:
I really don't know how you could pull the motor with the ZF still in. Actually, I can se putting the motor back in as being the REALLY hard part with the ZF in place. Personally, I would not attempt to take the motor out with the ZF in place. But that is me.
I really don't know how you could pull the motor with the ZF still in. Actually, I can se putting the motor back in as being the REALLY hard part with the ZF in place. Personally, I would not attempt to take the motor out with the ZF in place. But that is me.
I am confused about this too. The overwhelming advice seems to be the tranny has to be pulled, at least if it's a ZF, I think maybe you can get away without doing it if it's an auto.
I'm almost to the point where I am ready to pull the motor - most of the accesories are off etc - so if anyone is looking for something to do, I'm certainly up for the help :) Beer's on me!
What's so difficult about it? It's a piece of cake.. just unbolt the bellhousing from the tranny, then pull the motor /bellhousing forward a few inches and hoist it up. It takes no time. I did it twice last summer.
If you can stab the tranny back into the motor at the same time as dropping the motor in place, you must be damn good. I have a hard enough time getting the engine past the front frame rail and the motor mounts.
I guess I just got lucky.. I did use a jack to support the tranny and lift it a couple inches... It seriously took only about 30 minutes to get back in the car and bolted in... :crazy: