yah it could be the opti I sure hope not my 94 was bucking and bogging when I hit the gas and the 02s fixed it. mine never put a code up and had almost a 100 thou so it was over due. hope he has the same luck. my idle was fine I am hopeing he blew a line off or is cracked.

 

Unplugged the FPR, driving around it felt like it was harder to present the issues again but right before I was about to give up, it started acting up again. Now that I've been driving this long, it seems to happen most frequently when going uphill in a high gear and giving it just enough gas to accelerate without downshifting which I'm assuming puts more load on the pump and then it starts to miss and buck. This weekend, I'm putting it in a lift and replacing the o2's.

 

get the 02 sockets from Orielys and use the short one on the pass side. will loan it for $20 deposit or sell it for $25.
then hang on never ran better.

 

For all the posts I have read in the C4 section, in no way shape or form are these optis supposed to get wet. The car wash you went thru might have had the uncarraige wash going on and killed your opti. Ya never know. I tell ya I am even afraid to drive mine in rain

 

Sorry to say but I have a hard time believing changing your 02 sensors will solve your problems.Good luck though!

 

UPDATE:

Replaced the o2's, coolant temp sensor, plugs. Still bucking under part throttle once warm. Could this be the ICM or Coil going south? There is some dried residual oil all over this area. If so, where would be a good place to purchase an ICM and coil? Not sure if I mentioned this before either but once the problem presents itself, the rpms randomly spike in gear at a stop sometimes without the throttle being affected and sometimes it wants to push through my brakes.

 

Opti.

 

you can take them in and have them tested. are you sure the 02 wires are safe and not melted?

have you tested the injectors? hopeing it is not the opti.

make sure connections and grounds are good by the icm and coil.

did you just replace the water temp plug or the sensor?

 

Let me throw in another possibility.. being I had those same symptoms at one time..

"Leaking head gaskets",,, Loss of power in high gear/W low RPM's, increase in coolant temps, Fluctuating idle, Lots of clattering going on W/worn Intake guides etc. etc..

Now I'm sure there are many possibilities, but this needs to be put on the table..

 

I'm not too sure what you're trying to say exactly. It does tend to run a little warm but iant that normal?
Btw, I just did the ICM cooling mod and it still acted up but I noticed moisture inside the female end of the ICM sensor plug. Maybe this is the culprit. I'll replace it soon and provide updates.

 

take a hair dryer to it.

 

Simple; if you come to a point were there isn't anything else to Change, or test.. Keep in mind a leaking Head Gasket will cause a Loss of power, or "Bucking" symptom

 

OK - You've changed a few parts out - and the problem is still there - I highly doubt that anyone here on this forum hasn't been there once or twice (or more).

Assuming that you're still seeing fuel pressure variations that seem to occur when this pulsation is happening - I would probably spend time on the fuel system BEFORE changing out an opti. It could be a bad fuel pump - a clogged pick-up screen (sock), the fuel filter, the pressure damper or pressure regulator - or even a bad (collapsing) fuel line (remember these cars are 20 years old - and the alcohol in today's gas is not friendly to rubber lines that weren't designed for this mix). I know more than one person who had a restriction in a fuel line that caused them grief for months till they finally figured it out.

What I would suggest is to test the fuel pump and fuel delivery systems ability to deliver fuel. You could disconnect the fuel line at the filter or where it connects to the fuel rail, jump the oil pressure switch (to run the pump) and see how aggressively the fuel flows - but that isn't a realistic test because the fuel pump is not delivering fuel at 40+ psi. So - look at the fuel return line - there should be a threaded connector on the return line near the fuel filter - undo the connector and get a 1 gallon container - then have a friend jump the oil pressure switch to run the fuel pump. See what kind of output the fuel pump is delivering. The pumps in our cars should be able to deliver enough fuel to feed a 300 HP engine - with some margin. You need a bare minimum of .4 gallon a minute to support a 300 HP engine. So - if you run the pump and the regulator is making the pump push gas at 40+ psi - and it doesn't flow about half a gallon in a minute - you now have a good place to start looking. Fuel filters are cheap - and many have never been changed - so that's a good place to start. If that doesn't fix the problem - I'd then go to a new pump and strainer assembly - not as easy to change as the filter - but you can get them out without pulling the tank by working with the plate that the fill port connects to. If that doesn't fix the problem - regulator and pulsation damper (it the car has one) would be next ... Rubber fuel line replacement can be a nightmare - I would really hate to have to replace them - but if your pump and filter are known good and the regulator is OK - you might check to see if the power supply to the pump is rock solid- but you may be dropping the fuel tank in the near future...

If the pump is able to deliver the required fuel, AND if the volume doesn't fluctuate - then I would probably look at the opti a bit more...


GOOD LUCK !!!!

 

http://youtu.be/IoTZjTLvt1c

This is after getting warm. The car runs like a top when cold. It's not a fuel line issue.

 

have you tested your icm and coil?

 

I checked out shoebox lt1 and I guess the coil might still act up only when hot. Testing it while cold and off won't tell me anything if the problem happens when it occurs while hot. To answer your question, no, and because the only time this car acts up is about 10-15 minutes after the temps go north of 200*

 

Ordered new ICM from Summit after finding moisture in between the male and female connection. Will install tomorrow. My next purchase if this doesn't work will be the coil and then Opti. Anyone have any recommendations on the coil and or Opti? Keep in mind, I'm selling this car as soon as this issue is resolved. I'm thinking about a Chandler Motorsports product. Any thoughts?

 

might try putting a cold pack on your ecm.

 

Have you looked at the TPS? Sometimes a malfunctioning TPS will not throw a code. Look up the symptoms and compare the them to your problem.

 

The similarities between my symptoms and the symptoms of a bad TPS to me anyway, don't add up.