When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You've already spent a lot of cash on parts that didn't solve your problem. I'd strongly recommend you take this car to a talented diagnostician who can get to the bottom of it, before you continue to throw still more money at parts. You'll come out ahead at the end. A good diagnostician who has a quality scanner and scope should be able to quickly isolate this fault.
You've already spent a lot of cash on parts that didn't solve your problem. I'd strongly recommend you take this car to a talented diagnostician who can get to the bottom of it, before you continue to throw still more money at parts. You'll come out ahead at the end. A good diagnostician who has a quality scanner and scope should be able to quickly isolate this fault.
Live well,
SJW
It's funny,
I took the car to a "Corvette Specialists" here in San Diego, and they diagnosed the problem as wrong spark-plugs, said the double tip bosch plugs I had are the wrong kind. $300 and a 10 minute road trip down the road the problem continues. For a diagnostic and plugs.
It's funny,
I took the car to a "Corvette Specialists" here in San Diego, and they diagnosed the problem as wrong spark-plugs, said the double tip bosch plugs I had are the wrong kind. $300 and a 10 minute road trip down the road the problem continues. For a diagnostic and plugs.
That's totally unacceptable. They should never have released the car to you as "fixed" until they'd verified it with an adequate test drive. If you can stand to let them touch your car again, I'd suggest you take it back and tell them that your $300 didn't buy you anything, and ask them to get to the bottom of it correctly this time.
If you can't stand to take it back there, ask around for referrals to a talented diagnostician who can isolate the problem before replacing anything, and who'll stand behind his work.
That's totally unacceptable. They should never have released the car to you as "fixed" until they'd verified it with an adequate test drive. If you can stand to let them touch your car again, I'd suggest you take it back and tell them that your $300 didn't buy you anything, and ask them to get to the bottom of it correctly this time.
If you can't stand to take it back there, ask around for referrals to a talented diagnostician who can isolate the problem before replacing anything, and who'll stand behind his work.
Live well,
SJW
Yeah it's unfortunate. I called them back and explained it was still acting up. They told me to bring it back to which I just hung up the phone. Even if I was to bring it back to let them shoot blindly at the next issue it could be, it took them 3 days to diagnose spark plugs. The shop doesn't look very professional and I'd have to question the troubleshooting capabilities of the mechanic if it takes 3 days to diagnose spark plugs. I won't be bringing the vehicle back to that place.
With everything I've done to the car by now, I'm about 85% sure this issue is being brought on either by the MAF, ICM, or the Opti, to which I will replace accordingly.
Last edited by Torched94; Dec 20, 2015 at 03:34 PM.
Let me first say I did not read all the posts but I did read some like first and last page.
In voicing my opinion your initial symptom sounds like an opti problem. I have had this exact problem twice now. When it warms up it bucks in high gear, won't take the acceleration, idle wonders and smoothes out in a lower gear. That’s got opti written all over it and I just dont point to the opti casually.
Usually it's the cap and no codes will be set. You can look at measurements and waveforms all day long and see nothing unusual.
It cured my problem twice and elected to do the whole opti rather than the cap. I will also say in today's supply of parts I have heard it harder to get a quality optical unit in the opti but what you going to do and a decision or choice does need to be made. If the bearings are good, maybe the cap is an OK answer.
Let me first say I did not read all the posts but I did read some like first and last page.
In voicing my opinion your initial symptom sounds like an opti problem. I have had this exact problem twice now. When it warms up it bucks in high gear, won't take the acceleration, idle wonders and smoothes out in a lower gear. That’s got opti written all over it and I just dont point to the opti casually.
Usually it's the cap and no codes will be set. You can look at measurements and waveforms all day long and see nothing unusual.
It cured my problem twice and elected to do the whole opti rather than the cap. I will also say in today's supply of parts I have heard it harder to get a quality optical unit in the opti but what you going to do and a decision or choice does need to be made. If the bearings are good, maybe the cap is an OK answer.
New optispark from Ecklers ordered, along with new coil but I sold the parts along with the car to a buyer over seas. I'm 95% sure it's the Opti at this point. I've tried everything else. It seemed to have gotten worse with time as well. No longer my problem though. Buyer knows what he's getting into at least.