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anything special about flushing out the brake fluid on a 96...I know what to do etc...just curious since it has the anti-lock brakes if that makes any difference....I dont suspect it does...but thought I would ask the experts :cheers: thanks...... :seeya
I'm not a brake expert but here's what I've picked up.
It takes a TECH II (diagnostic computer thingy, I really want one of these) to cycle the ABS pump to throughly flush it. But unless you know you have contaminated fluid, it's probably unnecessary.
Nothing real special, just the typical ABS, don't push the brake pedal all the way to the floor when pumping. Use a good high temp fluid, Ford Oval Blue is good, but there are others. Good luck.
I am about to do the same on my 88 becouse I got realy old brake fluid that it is giving me poor braking so more replys and tips how to make the flush is greatly apprechiated :yesnod:
Just before my last track day, I took my car to the local dealer (our club sponsor) to have them flush and re-fill the fluid. I specifically asked that the ABS unit be flushed. The mechanic (one of their Vette specialists) came out and told me that flushing the ABS if it was operating correctly was not that good of an idea and potentially cause problems.
The ABS will flush itself when the ABS activates under extreme braking and also during the start-up test cycle. I would just bleed the brakes in the normal fashion and in a month or so you should see the fluid in the master look dirty again. This is the fluid from the ABS pump and lines. Bleed the brakes again and you should be good to go.
The system will take just about a quart to bleed. The Ford fluid is a good fluid choice as is ATE Super Blue. Castrol LMF is another good fluid (it has a slightly higher wet boiling point that the Ford fluid).
Thanks for your post c4cruiser. I just finished a flush on my '94 - ran about a quart and a half through until I had clear fluid at all 4 calipers - and was rather :confused: when about a week later the fluid in the master cylinder had turned cloudy. Really left me wondering what I had done wrong or missed. Good to know that it's just the ABS doing it's thing....guess I'll go back through the bleed process and see if I can get it to clear up - again. :seeya
thanks for all the replies :cheers: ..this is gonna be my weekend project...got new rotors to install and thought while I had the wheels off would just go ahead and change that brake fluid....thanks again all :seeya
I had the same thing happen and like others said, just bled the lines again after some hard driving that activated the ABS. Fluid remained clear until a VERY hard day at the track quite a while later :reddevil
I just finished a flush on my '94 - ran about a quart and a half through until I had clear fluid at all 4 calipers - and was rather :confused: when about a week later the fluid in the master cylinder had turned cloudy.
Before you start, buy an old bulb-style cooking baster and suck as much old fluid from the master cylinder as possible.
I get the best results NOT actually "pumping" the pedal. I just let it come back up to the top, then push it back down (with bleeder open), close bleeder and let it come back up. Keep an eye on the master fluid level...it goes away pretty fast. Keep the end of the bleeder hose under the fluid so it won't suck air back up into the wheel cylinder.
This method seems to introduce less air bubbles into the system. After you get clear fluid at all 4 corners, THEN pump them up. Should take 2-3 pumps and they are hard. This also uses less fluid.
I use the Castrol Synthethic brake fluid. It is DOT5, but is able to be used in ABS systems. So far it seems to work fine for me. It has a higher wet & dry boiling point than the Ford fluid (do you REALLY want to put Blue Oval stuff in your Corvette?). All the parts stores have it. It comes in a goldish bottle. They also have a good synthetic power steering fluid too....less prone to boiling over.