Replacing Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Thanks for the suggestion. Would PB Blaster penetrating oil do the trick as well?
absolutely. i just did this on my 85 while doing the head gasket. all of my bolts came out no trouble but i left them soak for 3 days. i shot each bolt in the morning and let it sit. they came out no problem.
You should be able to get the gaskets out without removing the manifold.
you might need to undo the bolts on the flange at the bottom of the manifold right where it enters into the Y pipe. douse these with penetrating oil from the top, and the bottom in case you do.
when you run the car again, the pb will burn off the exhaust for a bit and cause a smell.
good luck, post with any issues.
Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting.
Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil"
for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.
*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
BTW, I removed my exhaust manifold bolts without the aid of any penetrating oil. even after 30 years, all bolts came out without any excessive effort. all bolts were original to the car as installed by the factory. I wouldn't think anyone would have problems with iron head L98's - aluminum heads, yes, iron heads, no.
Last edited by Joe C; Dec 11, 2015 at 03:31 PM.
machinist's workshop magazine recently published some information on various penetrating oils that i found very interesting.
some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
they arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.
*penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
no oil used ................... 516 pounds
wd-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
pb blaster .................... 214 pounds
liquid wrench ...............127 pounds
kano kroil .................... 106 pounds
atf*-acetone mix............53 pounds
the atf-acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
note also that "liquid wrench" is almost as good as "kroil"
for about 20% of the price.
steve from godwin-singer says that atf-acetone mix is best, but you can also use atf and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.
*atf=automatic transmission fluid
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Id be happy to try this mixture. does anybody know if there is a plastic spray bottle that will hold the acetone/atf mix?
or some way to use a metal can and shoot compressed air into it?
Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting.
Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil"
for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.
*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
You could try this to apply...
http://www.kbctools.com/products/FLU...LERS/3270.aspx
Or for those with compressed air....
http://www.kbctools.com/products/FLU...YERS/3285.aspx
Last edited by John A. Marker; Dec 11, 2015 at 04:23 PM.
"dropping" the exhaust on my 85 turned into helicoiling 4 (FOUR!!!) manifold flange bolts and 1 on the back of the cat.
Bleh! never again!
found a sweet chrisfix vid on this. going to get an old oiler can!
if you need exhaust manifold studs (m10-1.5), here's a dorman part that I used on my 85. perfect fit to originals, and far cheaper than GM OEM -
Dorman 675-352 Double Ended Stud
goop them up with plenty of high-temp anti-seize. I also used copper, flange lock nuts. they were a BMW part, but far better than the plain old GM stuff -
BMW p/n 18301737774
Last edited by Joe C; Dec 12, 2015 at 06:00 AM.
Thanks for the help. I'm the new kid on the block so I will be posting a quick 'hello this me' post soon.
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