Low oil light
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From: Florida
Low oil light
My low oil light stays on mostly all the time. I am on my 2nd REPLACEMENT low oil sender. My oil level is correct. 5.5 quarts every oil change and the dipstick tells me I am well within the operating range.
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get a better or differant brand sensor and look at your wire and connection. did you use teflon tape? it might mess up the ground. not sure on this but others might. or if it never changed when replaced you might have changed the wrong sensor.
5.5 quarts what year?
5.5 quarts what year?
Last edited by antfarmer2; Dec 12, 2015 at 01:10 PM.
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Last edited by antfarmer2; Dec 12, 2015 at 01:51 PM.
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I believe the LOW LEVEL is a two terminal switch and sealant/tape has nothing to do with the operation. I'd check and post first the part # you've used and the source.
The ground is most likely done through a splice to another wire bundle so when you have the light - GROUND TERMINAL B physically with a probe and what happens?
Has the connector just failed? Maybe also, but I believe that the diagnostics should be very straight forward/non-destructive and the repair a connector or maybe a failed splice.
Do you have an FSM? 8A-86-1 might explain. I believe that would be the approximate location for the explanation. It is for others.
If you have the old sensors you should be able to bench test/check for correct operation. Switch is normally CLOSED I believe.
*** If you have the FSM the diagnostics for your problem is maybe/very likely a couple pages following the wiring schematic page I mentioned. Should be very straight forward.
The ground is most likely done through a splice to another wire bundle so when you have the light - GROUND TERMINAL B physically with a probe and what happens?
Has the connector just failed? Maybe also, but I believe that the diagnostics should be very straight forward/non-destructive and the repair a connector or maybe a failed splice.
Do you have an FSM? 8A-86-1 might explain. I believe that would be the approximate location for the explanation. It is for others.
If you have the old sensors you should be able to bench test/check for correct operation. Switch is normally CLOSED I believe.
*** If you have the FSM the diagnostics for your problem is maybe/very likely a couple pages following the wiring schematic page I mentioned. Should be very straight forward.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Dec 12, 2015 at 02:13 PM.
