C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Fitting Coil-overs

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Old Jan 27, 2016 | 07:17 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by blackozvet
Hi Jim, these rod-ends/heim links are generic,
the bolt on the end of the sway bar is 7/16" so I chose that size for the rodends.
I used a 7/16 male right hand thread and a 7/16 female right hand thread.
the washers are 7/16 hardened, and the bolts are 7/16 high tensile zinc coated.

you guys in the states are lucky, you can find this stuff everywhere cheap with free shipping, or just go to the local fastener place that sells this type of stuff, and get chromemoly or stainless.

if you look at rsc337's thread he has the later model suspension arms so you can see they are slightly different, but you can just bolt the rodends straight to the arm (unlike the early arms where you need to fab a bracket to do this)
he moved his sway bar forward, or you can do what i did and grind the back of it for clearance as the rodends give you a bit more clearance as well.
I appreciate the info! With this I'll try to put a set together myself. With my coilovers, I had to use a sway bar relocation bracket which moved the upper mounting point forward about an inch. There's a guy within our Registry that makes these out of billet. Thanks again!

Jim
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 12:43 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by JimZRyd
I appreciate the info! With this I'll try to put a set together myself. With my coilovers, I had to use a sway bar relocation bracket which moved the upper mounting point forward about an inch. There's a guy within our Registry that makes these out of billet. Thanks again!

Jim
the only problem with billet swaybar brackets is that no one gets to see them !
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 09:25 AM
  #83  
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Front CO pics for Corvetteforum,, in retrospect, I would use a clevis on the TOP and not the rubber bushings, if you want to use the Rubber Bushings, use the Polyurethane bushings because the rubber would split on my car every summer due to the weight they are supporting, the Urethane solved that problem
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Last edited by LD85; Apr 11, 2016 at 09:27 AM.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 09:54 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by LD85
Front CO pics for Corvetteforum,, in retrospect, I would use a clevis on the TOP and not the rubber bushings, if you want to use the Rubber Bushings, use the Polyurethane bushings because the rubber would split on my car every summer due to the weight they are supporting, the Urethane solved that problem
Always good to see you stop by and say "HELLO" - You've been well?

WAIT a minute - you didn't say HELLO you just showed your stuff LOL

Lots to be learned regarding C/O on an early car for sure from your install!

Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 11, 2016 at 09:55 AM.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 03:45 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Always good to see you stop by and say "HELLO" - You've been well?

WAIT a minute - you didn't say HELLO you just showed your stuff LOL

Lots to be learned regarding C/O on an early car for sure from your install!
Goober says Hey!

Evidently some of the pics went away and I dont throw anything out so.. I reposted the pics
I sort of miss making stuff like we do on the C4 's ,, I might be making a fan cooling system to keep the C6 Supercharger intercooler temps low in the fall, I'm waiting for my wife to forget that I sort of suggested that I maybe / might not mod the C6,, its working but very slowly

Last edited by LD85; Apr 11, 2016 at 03:46 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 06:45 AM
  #86  
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thanks for sharing the pics LD85
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Old May 17, 2016 | 03:21 AM
  #87  
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UPDATE - First competitive run for the car on Sunday with the new coil-overs, after some more work to get the 600 lb springs in.
Ran a 35.4 (previous best 35.3 last meeting of last year) with old Nitto 01's. I was getting brake lock up on the front and wheel spinning on the rear, but the tyres are 3 years old.

Had the car running low for this meet at 5" front chassis height, which is the lowest the car has been, didnt bottom out once. Compression set at 13 clicks out of 18.

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Old May 17, 2016 | 10:00 AM
  #88  
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1st gear the whole way?

Leave the ground a bit?
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Old May 17, 2016 | 06:31 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by 383tpimachine
1st gear the whole way?

Leave the ground a bit?
Locked in second, its got 3.07's so the gearing is still a bit tall (got some 3.54's on the bench)

Collingrove is like a goat track ! you can see that shocks and springs are very important there.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 09:00 PM
  #90  
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When I autox I wouldnt get out of 2nd either with 3.07s.

That hill looks fun.
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 04:23 AM
  #91  
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another update re lesson learnt from going to rod end sway bar links,
while the set up was good for 4 months of casual street use, first track outing showed up an issue.
when the sway bar is connected by rod ends there is nothing to stop the sway bar from sliding right to left, except the bend in the sway bar. This resulted in the top female rod ends bending,



some of problem went with trying to keep the poly bushes in the end of the sway bar giving a bit more angle.
after some research and talking to a couple of people, the poly mounts are gone and the rod ends will be bolted directly to the end of the sway bar.
the issue of the sway bar walking around is cured by the addition of go kart axle locating clamps, they are a 2 piece unit at $20 each.



Just a bit of info for anyone considering rod ends, particularly for track use.
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Old Jun 10, 2016 | 11:50 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by blackozvet
another update re lesson learnt from going to rod end sway bar links,
while the set up was good for 4 months of casual street use, first track outing showed up an issue.
when the sway bar is connected by rod ends there is nothing to stop the sway bar from sliding right to left, except the bend in the sway bar. This resulted in the top female rod ends bending,



some of problem went with trying to keep the poly bushes in the end of the sway bar giving a bit more angle.
after some research and talking to a couple of people, the poly mounts are gone and the rod ends will be bolted directly to the end of the sway bar.
the issue of the sway bar walking around is cured by the addition of go kart axle locating clamps, they are a 2 piece unit at $20 each.



Just a bit of info for anyone considering rod ends, particularly for track use.
Exellent! Keep up the good work as always!
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Old Jun 13, 2016 | 06:20 PM
  #93  
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^^^ need to check my swaybar links
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Old Jun 14, 2016 | 10:06 PM
  #94  
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the male rod ends are chromoly, but the females are mild steel, they didnt have them in chromoly.

the main thing is to get the rodend up against swaybar itself, to reduce the angle.
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